Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

how to change boost setting on a apexi avcr on mode A the car r33 s2 rb25 goes to 10 psi and after 5500rpm in shoots up to about 19

i want to try and set in to 15 the hole time on mode a also quick spool up

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218893-how-to-change-boost-on-a-apexi-avcr/
Share on other sites

AVCR's are great once you have a base line...

If its spiking all over the shop that means your gain is set way to high...

lower both values on the avcr and then just increase the base line until you have good gradual control over the boost...

then just adjust the value until you get your desired 15psi, always trust a separate boost gauge tho dont realy on the avcr to tell you wants going on... :P

atl, have a google for an english manual and it explains boost spiking and gain setting much better than i can

so i never used the scramble function as never needed it and i never used the self learning modes...

I always used mode number 1.Boost/Duty

So just to get a base line, reset the unit and start from scratch...

Set the Bst value to 1.05kg/cm2 and set the gain to about 10

Then go for a drive and watch you separate boost gauge and see what happens...

If it comes on way to hard and too fast for you drop the gain down, if it takes way too long to get to full boost then turn the gain up a bit (little changes like 3-4 at a time)

Once your happy with the gain and the way the car boosts then adjust the kg/cm2 value up of down (once again in small changes) until you hit the sweet spot...

Just remember a high gain will cause boost spiking as the valve in the boost solinoid will bounce and create boost spikes, so keep the gain value as low as possible without loosing performance and thrill... :P

sandy

the duty is the ratio of the solenoid being opened and closed

so a higher value, means the solenoid is closed more, which means it holds more boost

the lower the number, the less you should have, well as least inline with the target boost

so if you set say 1.0kgcm2 and 50 duty

and it ramps to 1.2kgcm2 instantly your duty is too high, ie: it's closed too much, and the actuator doesnt progressively open enough, so it opens finally, and its too late, its way over

so if you set say 1.0kgcm2 and 30 duty

and it climbs slowly but only gets to 0.80kgcm2 your duty is too low, ie; its open too much, and the actuator opens early and just lets all the pressure out

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • FWIW the depth of the groove in the rubber pad is not super essential, the blocks are rubber and squish a bit. If you are worried an angle grinder will make a deeper groove quick smart
    • I mean, if you were to move the jacking points away from the original location, that is, away from the wheels and closer to the centreline of the car, then it will be more likely to overbalance and tip off the supports. Same as we talked about before. I was talking about moving for-aft. If the sill is bent outward or inward, then the car would obviously look unstraight from the outside. Hopefully that hasn't happened either. Again, you can do comparative measurements from the chassis rails to see if there is much deflection.
    • Can you elaborate what you mean with your first sentence? I meant move as in the bulge kinda seemed like it got pulled "outward" meaning it got pulled down and to the side with the jacking rail itself, so the load bearing bulge now sits lower than usual and is not level with the sill on the other side of the jack point. Either that or the jacking rail just got pushed in a good bit.
    • As well as being risky WRT tipping off anyway. Yeah, I wouldn't expect it to move. Just measure from the rear one to the front one on the good side, then measure that same length on the wrecked side. You will find the notches in the pinchweld, and the jacking pad. Just spray a spot of marker paint or something there.
    • but any other area than the bulge you are talking about will just cave in then? The front driver side is pretty bent so I don't know if that will work the way it is now. I can still kinda make out where that bulge is/was but it looks like the position of it also changed due to all the mistreatment? Hard to tell
×
×
  • Create New...