Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have been getting squeaks when i change gears or especially when i go into 1st gear from neutral i hear it once, but then it doesn't occur that often. It only happens so rarely i can't show it to any mechanic or anybody if i wanted to at the right time.

What could this mean? My gearbox is going?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219267-squeaks-from-gearbox/
Share on other sites

I have been getting squeaks when i change gears or especially when i go into 1st gear from neutral i hear it once, but then it doesn't occur that often. It only happens so rarely i can't show it to any mechanic or anybody if i wanted to at the right time.

What could this mean? My gearbox is going?

It's either your clutch fork pivot bolt needing lubrication ,or your clutch pedal bracket with broken welds.If the pivot bolt you need to get under the passenger side of the car with a can of motorcycle o-ring chain lube ,which is a very sticky foam type substance which can be kept localised to stop it getting on your clutch or flywheel,and pull back the rubber boot gently and you will see a bolt attached to the clutch fork with a balled end on it ,use the lubrication extension straw on the lube can and sparingly spray some into the ball contact area,it will be better if you have a mate to pump the clutch gently while you do it so the lube gets right in to the ball area.

If it's the clutch pedal bracket you need to take it out and re-enforce it with metal and re-weld the broken area with a bit more than a spot weld if you can,it's a good idea to do this to the bracket even if it's not a problem at the moment as it will strand you one day in a most inconvenient way, and you will probably stuff your gearbox trying to get the car home as many have on this forum,for this reason I am installing a Nismo replacement one which is 1.75 times stronger than original for About $140.00 landed to avoid this nasty inconvenience,hope this helps,if you need more info on the removal of the bracket,go to the search bar and type in "WELD THE BITCH" it will tell you how on a 33 not sure on a 34,can't be that much different though,good luck .Cheers Grey Pearl.

alright now, im on the verge of lubricating the pivot ball for the clutch squeak to go away as well as for the gearbox squeak. Is it possible that the gearbox squeak when i change gears is also coming from the issue of pivot ball being dried up by any chance? or am i have another different problem?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As a general rule removing rubber fuel hose is so difficult I would replace it if it hasn't been done in the last 5 years. The risk you damage the liner or one of the inner layers is pretty high if it's not almost brand new. BMW's recommendations around coolant hoses is similar. My R33's fuel hoses at the fuel tank were so perished that they were ready to burst FYI. 
    • Ah yep, will do. Cheers!
    • Yes. It's either "2 wires", or 1 wire, depending on how you look at it. It is the connection that ties the battery -ve to both the chassis and the engine. Every electron that goes in or out of the battery goes through those 2 small spots (on the inner guard and on the engine block). If those are not clean and tight, then shit starts to suffer. Yeah, but measure it again cold in the morning, after it has had hours to rest. You can't usefully test the charge state of a battery immediately after it has been running because the alternator puts a surface charge onto the plates that takes a while to soak in and balance out. It will always read higher, and potentially look properly healthy, when fresh off of charge. But hours later it can look a lot less healthy. It's also worth measuring the battery voltage while cranking, although this can be difficult with a typical DMM because the screem update rate is so slow on most of them. An analogue voltmeter is actually a better tool for that. If the voltage drops too far while cranking, it is a sign of a poor battery. Although I don't think we're necessarily looking for a weak battery here - just wanting to exclude it.
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/15ZMn5oXtc/ Updated Event (so its not private and can be shared easier)  Attempting to coordinate a big push of Stagea's to this years GTR Festival. Great event last year and hoping for the same this year.  Discounted tickets 20% off for their various tickets until the 3rd of Feb Monday. Drags, show and shine etc.  I've emailed them to ask to set a location aside for the Stageas for the show and shine - they are happy to do so if we can get them numbers, I'm happy to keep track of that. Entering as Nismo category.  I'll be road tripping up from Melbourne, would be cool to convey if people are interested, maybe there is SAU convoys from each capital? If you have ideas about that let me know.  https://gtrfestival.com.au  
    • Does have series 2 airbag steering wheel and passenger side airbag also.
×
×
  • Create New...