Jump to content
SAU Community

Bonnet Wont Close!

N1GTR

By N1GTR,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

drgnball34 Rising Star

drgnball34

Posted
Posted

god damit my carbon bonnet wont shut aswell!!!! The cam cover is hitting the second vent. We tried spacers but its just rasing the back of the bonnet and looks really crap aswell. Only option is to cut across half of that vent and then make up another bigger piece of mesh to cover the gap. Shoudnt look 2 bad. Will post pics once done

  • Replies 119
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

=premo= Mentor

=premo=

Posted
Posted
good glad i am not the only one...but hey..may be OEM hood fits better...and don't have to cut out a hole....??

The vented section of a carbon fiber bonnet is flat at the lowest point of each vent so they are possibly worse for clearance.

I have to space my strut brace up now as the cam cover is hitting it as it rev's up. Just going to try 5mm plates first to see if its enough.

MBS206 Grand Master

MBS206

Posted
Posted
The vented section of a carbon fiber bonnet is flat at the lowest point of each vent so they are possibly worse for clearance.

I have to space my strut brace up now as the cam cover is hitting it as it rev's up. Just going to try 5mm plates first to see if its enough.

Get an engine stabiliser bar thing man. Stop the engine twisting. The more the engine twists around, the less power makes it to the wheels.

R32 TT Mentor

R32 TT

Posted
Posted
Get an engine stabiliser bar thing man. Stop the engine twisting. The more the engine twists around, the less power makes it to the wheels.

The engine moves what.. an inch and a half? Two? You think this will stop 500hp getting to the wheels? :/

MBS206 Grand Master

MBS206

Posted
Posted
The engine moves what.. an inch and a half? Two? You think this will stop 500hp getting to the wheels? :rofl:

It's not stopping 500RWHP getting to the wheels...

But how much force is required for you to PUSH the engine by hand that 1.5 - 2" sideways? Measure this amount... Then realise that it's pivoting on the drives side engine mount, Measure in a straight line from the engine mount point, to the passenger side cam cover.

This is your distance. Now multiply the force in newtons you required to push your motor 1.5 - 2" sideways, and this is how much torque you're losing...

Now I know it's a fair amount of force required, and at say 1M, if you need 100newtons to push it sideways, then you're loosing 100nm of torque from the fly... See how quickly it adds up? Get the brace...

R32 TT Mentor

R32 TT

Posted
Posted
It's not stopping 500RWHP getting to the wheels...

But how much force is required for you to PUSH the engine by hand that 1.5 - 2" sideways? Measure this amount... Then realise that it's pivoting on the drives side engine mount, Measure in a straight line from the engine mount point, to the passenger side cam cover.

This is your distance. Now multiply the force in newtons you required to push your motor 1.5 - 2" sideways, and this is how much torque you're losing...

Now I know it's a fair amount of force required, and at say 1M, if you need 100newtons to push it sideways, then you're loosing 100nm of torque from the fly... See how quickly it adds up? Get the brace...

:blush: based on that theory then - if you brace it - how much force is required to move it by hand then? You won't budge it... so now you're losing ALL your torque from the flywheel?

What I am saying is the motor moves 1" to 2" yes, but then it stops - it happens in an instant - and now all your power is going through the drivetrain..

If you motor 'kept moving' (and spun around and around in the engine bay) then sure, you'd be losing power. Or am I missing something...?

MBS206 Grand Master

MBS206

Posted
Posted
:blush: based on that theory then - if you brace it - how much force is required to move it by hand then? You won't budge it... so now you're losing ALL your torque from the flywheel?

What I am saying is the motor moves 1" to 2" yes, but then it stops - it happens in an instant - and now all your power is going through the drivetrain..

If you motor 'kept moving' (and spun around and around in the engine bay) then sure, you'd be losing power. Or am I missing something...?

Go break an engine mount, or just unbolt the passenger one. The motor will twist around a shit load more, response drops off, and so does overall power.

And if no amount of torque can shift the motor, then you won't lose any, because there is none being USED to move it no where.

And if someone sponsors me some L28 mounts, I'll change them over...

MBS206 Grand Master

MBS206

Posted
Posted
Im not exactly sure what you guys are hoping to gain by using L28 mounts,, there is no where to lower the engine.

I have plenty of sump to cross member clearance to lower my motor in the GTS-t.

The GTR I hear has a lot less room though...

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted
I have plenty of sump to cross member clearance to lower my motor in the GTS-t.

The GTR I hear has a lot less room though...

Ditto, I've got may 20mm if I remember correctly.

Obviously there is a lot less room in a GTR due to using adapter plates for the sump etc.

felixy69 Rising Star

felixy69

Posted
Posted
The vented section of a carbon fiber bonnet is flat at the lowest point of each vent so they are possibly worse for clearance.

I have to space my strut brace up now as the cam cover is hitting it as it rev's up. Just going to try 5mm plates first to see if its enough.

ugh i don't care about my strut brace..i just don't want my Hood to be open like that .... it's 1) ugly, 2) ppl can do stuff to ur motor when parked 3) sh*t flies in...etc

=premo= Mentor

=premo=

Posted
Posted
:( based on that theory then - if you brace it - how much force is required to move it by hand then? You won't budge it... so now you're losing ALL your torque from the flywheel?

What I am saying is the motor moves 1" to 2" yes, but then it stops - it happens in an instant - and now all your power is going through the drivetrain..

If you motor 'kept moving' (and spun around and around in the engine bay) then sure, you'd be losing power. Or am I missing something...?

I understand what is being said and I intend to get a brace or solid mounts but the rotational force on the engine is all about inertia being transfer d from the stationary parts into the moving parts and the friction between them. The rotational force of the engine is still there even if its solid mounted only you cant see it because the force or kinetic energy is transfer d to the cars chaise. The only way the amount of kinetic energy transfer could be reduced is by using lighter moving engine parts which will also reduce the amount of inertia at top revs etc.

Please correct me if I'm wrong or loan/give me money to get my car going and I will get dyno results of before and after.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Duncan · Posted

      well mate, while I hear your pain, turns out I don't feel it this time! Must have been a bastard of a job crammed into the boot The tank was very empty (probably pumped out, not dropped and drained because there were some fumes still) and in very good condition internally. I'm sure he never ran e85 in it I don't know what the hell Nissan's fuel tank engineers were thinking about their clipping system, this hanger was really hard to get moving but came out in the end All looks very good (as I'm starting to hopefully expect) and Matty was right it is an 023 (044) bosch which should be plenty for the injectors and turbo
    • acsplit
      SAU VIC Motorkhana Saturday 8th Feb + Entry List

      By acsplit · Posted

      Saturday 8th February 2025 8:30am Capped 26 entries Standard Entry Fee: $89 Members Entry Fee: $55 (SAU Victoria Only) Entries Close: Thursday 6th February 8pm. Supp Regs: TBC Disclaimer: Download  Please electronically sign and email to [email protected] or print and hand in and Driver Sign In. email [email protected] To compete in this event you will require A valid AASA General speed licence Or (Day license is $35.00 via the AASA Website) MA licenses no longer accepted A helmet, long sleeve clothing and it is reccomended a 1KG mounted fire extinguisher (But not Mandatory). Further details within Supp Regs Above. You can bring and have a passenger in the car but they need to comply to the same safety and clothing as driver. Entry Link >> https://www.sauvic.com.au/entry/deca/20250208 Entry List: 1. Martin Sullivan 2.  3.  4.  5.  6.  7.  8.  9. 10.  11. 12.   13. 14 15.  16.  17.  18.  19. 20.  21.  22.  23.  24.  25. 26.    Reserve list 1.  2.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I had absolutely no symptoms whatsoever that anything was wrong.... I'm very happy it was all spotto'd and re-bled and re-torqued and aligned though. Will be picking it up tomorrow and undoubtedly be like "Oh, that clunk is gone" "Oh, the car really wants to drive straight" "Oh, that pedal feels better" "Oh, it feels like I've gained 25hp" "Oh, the handbrake works now" It should have been a sign that the new Project Mu shoes had 3mm of pad depth on them out of the box, and the OEM ones from 25 years ago that we took out also had 3mm of pad depth, implying the issue was not, and never was the shoes, but we put that down to it not being adjusted correctly. It wasn't, but it wasn't even adjustable at all given one side was boned and the T Junction of the cables was on a 45 degree angle, the non-working side being the one on the massive angle. Obviously when I had adjusted it and reset it and re-tensioned it I had either got it stuck or something along those lines. Oh well. Live and learn and absolutely could have been catastrophically worse so I'm rationalizing it as a win, kinda. I also got the chance to measure the distance between rear rim and the suspension arm/shocks and found a 30mm rubber block only just doesn't fit there. Which is great to know before ordering wheels, when I assumed 30mm was easy. The man with the Porsche adapters has rims that use 23.9mm of that space, so it's safe to assume I have between 23.9 and 29.9mm of space there to play with on the inside. The wheels looked pretty stupidly pokey with the 20mm spacers on the rear, only for me to find that the studs come out another 12mm and the wheel doesn't actually sit flush with the hub because you're supposed to cut your original studs. The wheels do have cutouts that kinda accomodate it, but not fully. So my 20mm spacer was anywhere between 25mm and 35mm. ~25mm and send it will determine on where the wheels sit with the spacers on. When I put the pads in for the track day I will mess around with spacers (with wheels that do not clear studs properly when mounted to spacers) and do more math, for the last time, for the 7th time.
    • The Bogan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Lucky pick up Best to find these things before something horrible happened to the yoke flange thingies I would hate to think what would happen if it dropped the tailshaft  Hopefully the holes are not flogged out in the yokes and it was just the bolts that got munted  As for the hand brake.....ouch, look like the disc got rather hot, and I assume smokey, I recall when I had a front caliper seize on the Commodore, there was lots of smoke and the disc was glowing cherry red when I was able to eventually stop and have a look, and stopping a big heavy car, going down a big hill with some rather high RPM down shifts and some hand brake action is something that makes you think hard about life
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      One of the things that never seemed right was the handbrake. Put in some nice new Project Mu shoes. We figured the rears were out, so why not. We're right there. My handbrake never worked well anyway. Well, this is them, 15km later. 67fdcf94-9763-4522-97a4-8f04b2ad0826.mp4 Keen eyes would note the difference in this picture too:   And this picture: Also, this was my Tailshaft bolts: 4ad3c7dd-51d0-4577-8e72-ba8bc82f6e87.mp4 It turns out my suspicions that one side of the handbrake cable was stretched all along were pretty accurate, as was my intuition that I didn't want to drop the tailshaft to swap them on jack stands and wasn't entirely sure about bolt torque. I have since bought the handbrake cables which have gone in. I'm very glad that I went to my mechanic friend who owns an alignment machine to get an alignment before the track day, because his eyes spotted these various levels of "WHAT THE f**k IS GOING ON HERE?". Turns out the alignment wasn't that bad, considering we changed the adjustable castor arms out for un-adjustable castor arms, and messed with the heights. Car drove pretty good with one side of the handbrake stuck on, unbleedable rear brakes, alignment screwy, and the tailshaft about to go flying and generally being a death trap waiting to happen! (I did have covid) (I maintain I adjusted the handbrake correctly, but movement caused shennanigans and/or I dislodged the spring on the problem side somewhat, or god knows what). G R E G G E D
×
×
  • Create New...