Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 119
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

hi mate, must be your manifold..i have a 4094r on mine and mine closes no problem.get leigh or kyle to make you one up for that turbo.. if its the cam cover catching on the 32 thats a bigger problem..

  • 2 weeks later...
Hmmm, I don't have a backing plate or cam gear cover. See if you can use tin snips to cut it off.

Yup, I had to cut out some of the bonnet reinforcement to fit over the "twin turbo" pipe as I'm running twin low mounts.. and I can't put the cam wheel front cover on at the moment as that hits too.. and my tower strut brace (cusco) would no longer clear the twin turbo pipe either - so might have to custom fab one up.. haven't tried spacers under the bonnet hinges - can you get away with 10mm though?? Would have thought it would look pretty bad fit... but maybe 5mm is worth a try - still won't help at the front though...

Rb30 sucks to fit in a GT-R in my opinion..

Goes alright though..

I don't really want to hack into my GTR ally bonnet and I'm not game enough to take the timing belt cover AND backing plate off as I'm scared I would shred my timing belt.

Can't run my strut brace at the moment but will attempt to put it back on once I go forward facing plenum and high mount turbo.. if I can't then I'll probably get a custom made brace back to the firewall.

10mm spacers is fine, that's what I have in mine and it doesn't look too bad (black car though, might look stupid on a diff coloured car).

Oh and R32 TT, saw your car on Sunday at the Autotest.. it's a fkn beast man :)

Edited by bubba
I don't really want to hack into my GTR ally bonnet and I'm not game enough to take the timing belt cover AND backing plate off as I'm scared I would shred my timing belt.

Can't run my strut brace at the moment but will attempt to put it back on once I go forward facing plenum and high mount turbo.. if I can't then I'll probably get a custom made brace back to the firewall.

10mm spacers is fine, that's what I have in mine and it doesn't look too bad (black car though, might look stupid on a diff coloured car).

Oh and R32 TT, saw your car on Sunday at the Autotest.. it's a fkn beast man :wave:

Taking off your backing plate and timing belt cover wont shred your timing belt.

Taking off your backing plate and timing belt cover wont shred your timing belt.

Without the backing plate and without hacking the bonnet support, I think the timing belt would be dangerously close to the bonnet.. even more so if I removed the 10mm spacers!

I don't really want to hack into my GTR ally bonnet and I'm not game enough to take the timing belt cover AND backing plate off as I'm scared I would shred my timing belt.

Can't run my strut brace at the moment but will attempt to put it back on once I go forward facing plenum and high mount turbo.. if I can't then I'll probably get a custom made brace back to the firewall.

10mm spacers is fine, that's what I have in mine and it doesn't look too bad (black car though, might look stupid on a diff coloured car).

Oh and R32 TT, saw your car on Sunday at the Autotest.. it's a fkn beast man :P

:D Cheers mate - you'll have come a say g'day next time so I can start putting Faces to Avatars!

I would like to do a custom strut brace to the firewall as well... have you looked at this in any detail? Looks pretty busy back there... If so, have you got anyone in mind to fabricate it?

:( Cheers mate - you'll have come a say g'day next time so I can start putting Faces to Avatars!

I would like to do a custom strut brace to the firewall as well... have you looked at this in any detail? Looks pretty busy back there... If so, have you got anyone in mind to fabricate it?

Will do :P

Haven't looked at the firewall brace too closely yet, it's just an idea at the moment but I've seen it done in a 33 I think it was and some other cars. I'm not putting any effort into it yet until the new turbo and forward facing plenum is on as that will change things rather drastically!

I'm thinking that if my strut brace won't fit back on I'll hack it up and use the mounting rings, relocate the hinges and use some threaded rod for an adjuster in the middle. Weld a plate to the firewall with some bolted hinges so the braces can be removed easily. Really depends on where my turbo ends up :D

Without the backing plate and without hacking the bonnet support, I think the timing belt would be dangerously close to the bonnet.. even more so if I removed the 10mm spacers!

I honestly don't think it will be dangerously close. Do what i did when i was checking for clearances.

Remove the cover and backing pate.

Get a few pieces of blue tak, roll the pieces into a thin cigarette, about 30mm long, and stick them vertically on the highest points of the engine/belt/etc. then gently close the bonnet. If the bonnet closes properly, open it again and see how much the blue tak has squashed down. This will give you the clearances from your bonnet.

I honestly don't think it will be dangerously close. Do what i did when i was checking for clearances.

Remove the cover and backing pate.

Get a few pieces of blue tak, roll the pieces into a thin cigarette, about 30mm long, and stick them vertically on the highest points of the engine/belt/etc. then gently close the bonnet. If the bonnet closes properly, open it again and see how much the blue tak has squashed down. This will give you the clearances from your bonnet.

Then cam covers should still be well higher than the timing belt and the bonnet would hit these first. Just make sure you cut the bonnet support out so the bar thats removed is as long as it can be without cutting where other supports meet. this way there isnt any leftover support bar that could damage the belt. I'll post picks of mine next time I'm working on it.

sort of on the same subject, just wondering whats the best way to lower the engine to clear the bonnet, how do u go about modifying the mounts, is it a simple job or do i need to make new ones up? this is on a 2wd setup so i got abit of sump to x-member clearance to drop it down abit lower, im not keen on cutting the bonnet really. Spacers is always an option as its gonna be used for track anyway.

I did hear a rumour the other day about L28 engine mounts possibly dropping the motor..

As for timing belt clearance, I'm still not chopping my bonnet :D

Interested in photos of your bonnet though premo :)

I haven't heard that but it would make sense. An RB drops straight into a 240z and the L series engines sit low in them stock.

Pic of section cut out, the black spots are just a sticky glue that holds the frame to the bonnet skin. I used a small cut off blade with the bonnet on the car and a blanket over the engine (don't let it get hot as the paint could bubble on the other side of the bonnet) then used a knife to cut through the glue. Took less than 2min to do.

bonnetcut.jpg

I did hear a rumour the other day about L28 engine mounts possibly dropping the motor..

This is where that rumour of mine came from Bubba :thumbsup:

Hey boys has any one lowered the rb30/26 so the bonnet closes in a r32 gtr

meaning weather you spaced the xmember or modified the engine mounts

thanx in advance

hehe, grab the engine mounts from a LD28 powered laurelor R31 skyline station wagon, because of the deck hieght on the block the engine mounts are shorter

..........

it was an old retired mechanic who told me what engine mounts to try. i would have never have known other wise and probably would have had to get a custom bonnet made.

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That ring thing is interesting how it's holding everything together 
    • Hey guys. I have a 400R on its way to Australia from Japan currently and have a few questions I’m hoping others may be able to help with.   Wondering if anyone here has had any luck getting the Sat nav unit to work in Australia!? Assuming the Stereo is as simple as a band expanded and tv won’t work?  Seeing as they’re based off a Q50 which is Aus delivered is there any way to link that system to the nav? Nav modules and head unit are different part numbers and appear slightly different at the rear with plug ins etc. can I put my xtrail sd card into the rv37 and will that convert the maps or update to Australian? Has anyone got any advice here?     also has anyone fitted the factory remote start and Security system once it’s landed in Australia? I put an enquirey to Nissan Japan in via a third party, and they suggested it needs a Nissan Japan dealers device to setup and couldn’t guarantee if one here could do it or not. They can supply and I can physically fit it but to setup I would need a dealers device. Any information here would be appreciated also. I’ve seen one here with it fitted already prior to leaving Japan at a dealer/inporter, so clearly passes compliance and works when fitted Japan and doesn’t need changing here.      also, does the tyre inflation sensors work here? Does anything change with them when the vehicle arrives? Where are they actually situated? I’ve read they have batteries and they need to changing at times and seems like resetting involves the nav system?    any help here would be appreciated and any other aust specific information to help would be great. Looking forward to see what the current generation skyline is like and eager to see how many of the gadgets can be utilised here.  Thanks in advance 
    • Do need to take it with a pinch of salt. One of the adapter failures, they clearly had setup issues with the flywheel.  One of the slipping ones I spoke to and it was pretty clear the throwout was riding, rather than fix, just swapped to a new clutch.    These clutches are being put in anything from 5k offroad 4x4 beaters, GR yaris, 500hp commodores to 1200hp barra monsters. Bound to be some issues in some of them when they are not a simple bolt in affair due to the changes in height.    There is a lot going on in this picture and unless I did the job myself no way to tell what really happened. 
    • I did this mod in 2019  You just have to modify the top bracket of the ABS/TC/Fuel Pump Control ECU so it sits more upright and closer to the back seat and run a good quality positive battery lead from the engine bay, the negative lead i just bolted down to the body in the boot.
    • Damn... Not the feedback I want to hear.
×
×
  • Create New...