Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

trying to do something different and unique appeals to self worth... just like people who sticker up their car and have big fancy kits and wings. it doesn't matter what others think but the fact is that you like it and it appeals to you. so if you want to make 250rwkw NA and spend bucket loads of money go ahead. but...

not directing this at you joshua, but since we are on the topic of power. i still fail to understand the 'dream' people have to attain more and more power. i understand that power is a quick standard everyone uses to assess the engine - however you don't need massive amounts of power to go fast!! that said if you're simply wanting to make more power, then boost is your answer. if you want to create art (and i use the term loosely here for those ricey ones) then do what your wallet allows you to!

cheers

eug

  • Replies 113
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Nissan VH41DE... will give you your power output out of the box, its still NA, sounds beautiful, about the same weight or less than an RB(VH is an alloy engine)... and the conversion should leave change from $5K

Nissan VH41DE... will give you your power output out of the box, its still NA, sounds beautiful, about the same weight or less than an RB(VH is an alloy engine)... and the conversion should leave change from $5K

may as well go for a VH45...

unfortunately i dont think you'd see any change from $5K unless you could do a large portion of the work yourself. i know john has easily spent more than that and he initially did it on the cheap!

:) Im not giving anything else away

LOL... nothing is confirmed yet. i'm waiting until after i graduate (july) - however the RB25 has fux0red it's head gasket and measurements are currently being made for the transplant hint V

the plan will also be to build the RB30 as a side project and whack on the head from the 25 - which is far more appealing to me :)

If the displacement is equal, you will never get a NA car to match a FI car once you start modifying both.

does F1 count? :woot:

Yes it does.

Have a look at the projected power outputs of the old 3.0L engines. Then compare it to the 1.5L turbo engines of old. NA has double the displacement, 20 years of development by some of the finest mechanical engineers, and only makes 2/3 of the power.

The 2005 3.0L F1 engine makes about 1000hp, and you know that if an F1 engine builder can't make more power out of that litrage then no-one can. There are 2JZs making significantly more power than that.

does F1 count? :woot:

Yes it does.

Have a look at the projected power outputs of the old 3.0L engines. Then compare it to the 1.5L turbo engines of old. NA has double the displacement, 20 years of development by some of the finest mechanical engineers, and only makes 2/3 of the power.

The 2005 3.0L F1 engine makes about 1000hp, and you know that if an F1 engine builder can't make more power out of that litrage then no-one can. There are 2JZs making significantly more power than that.

I dont get what your trying to prove? Its obvious that your allways going to get more power out of a FI engine, but it doesnt mean you cant get decent power out of n/a.

a fairer comparison is a 1.5L boosted on 1 bar vs a 3L n/a, or a 2L boosted on 0.5 bar vs a 3L N/A, as they have the same theoretical capacity

im gnna try and hit 120rwkw in the n/a 34, do a manual conversion...then the rest is up to my little brother who gets his license in a few years!

shouldn be easy as, it wouldn't be far off that now would it?

Edited by SKiT_R31
I dont get what your trying to prove?

Have a read through the quoted posts, and work it out.

I said that, once you start modding, a FI engine of the same displacement as NA will always make more power. Eug asked if F1 engines counted. I provided evidence that, even in F1, forced induction ruled.

Its obvious that your allways going to get more power out of a FI engine

Not to ER3425GT, who started this thread.

He said he wanted "non turbo yet equally powerful to a turbo model". I told him that, displacement for displacement (and implied mod budget for mod budget) that just wasn't ever going to happen.

If it was "obvious", he wouldn't have asked.

im gnna try and hit 120rwkw in the n/a 34, do a manual conversion...then the rest is up to my little brother who gets his license in a few years!

i pushing out a measely 123rwkw with my 34 n/a...its not very impressive haha.i got a straight 2.5" all the way down that gives it a good kick and some other lil things hear and there.

really want to know what engines are a good fit for skylines....other than RB's

If you want to stay NA, there's only so many engines you can choose from.

If you're looking at staying in the family, bolt in a V8. If I remember correctly, a VH45DE can be tuned to make mad power while still being NA. I'm pretty sure they'll go out to 6.0L.

Nismo's 380RS track car makes 400ps from its 3.8L engine, and the bits required to build it are available if you've got the coin. There's a company in the US that offers 4.2L crate VQs, but they're set up for FI. You could use their sleeve kit and get custom, NA-oriented, bits to obtain the same displacement but with a high compression ratio and low reciprocating mass.

Bang-for-buck for the engine itself (so ignoring the costs install said engine into the car) its hard to go past a Chev small block.

Have a read through the quoted posts, and work it out.

I said that, once you start modding, a FI engine of the same displacement as NA will always make more power. Eug asked if F1 engines counted. I provided evidence that, even in F1, forced induction ruled.

Not to ER3425GT, who started this thread.

He said he wanted "non turbo yet equally powerful to a turbo model". I told him that, displacement for displacement (and implied mod budget for mod budget) that just wasn't ever going to happen.

If it was "obvious", he wouldn't have asked.

Now heres where your wrong. There is no reason why an n/a cant produce more power than a factory turbo, from your quote, you are saying that it cant happen, well it can. whats a stock rb25det got? 140rwkw? You could happily get that out of an rb25de, more even, and thats with the same capacity.

But if the question is, can a N/A produce more power than a turbo, then no, because no matter how much work you put into an n/a, the same can be done + boost imo.

as for the origional question, 180-200kw is achievable with a 3L bottom end, and with less work than people seem to think.

To be fair the RBs fail at NA. I'd be much more inclined on going a different car or going to the length of transplanting a VQ35 or something like that in it. The VQs straight off the bat make more power than any of the non-GTR turbo RBs, and respond nicely to mods. If you kept the hood down, you might even be able to pass it off as a normal NA skyline :thumbsup:

i got a non turbo and i see no point in working them unless for track work. whats the use when u can buy a turbo for nearly the same price. i few of my mates have 33's and with front mount, 12psi n a 3 inch exhaust they all made between 205-212rwkw so why bother spending thousands on less then 150rwkw

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I just got this system but haven’t installed yet I got a Moroso sealed box (defect reasons) which will be set up same as their pic The quality is high grade, the correspondence I had with the owner (former head designer for Rockford Fosgate) was unbelievable, guiding me with what I needed. Even told me not to buy some things as it could be sorted in a different way at his loss. Just a bit of a bite with the exchange rate and don’t purchase gear in 1 hit that goes over $1,000 au, lol I forgot!  
    • Thanks mate for that reply. Very helpful.    it’s a 2022 400R so would most likely lose those features as you say.     I did a quick compare of a rv37 nav and heading for sale in Japan to q50 model. I’ll pop pics below. Seems  Japan spec head into top, nav unit second below it   below pic Q50 aud delivered     differences seem to be Aus delivered has a different plug top left hand side of head unit- not sure what and where it goes.   and nav unit Japanese tv37 had an extra plug put    Again I’m really not sure what each of these differences mean!       the actual plugs on a v37 and q50 screens look identical on both screens… pics below for comparing. (One screen was is a us delivered one) but should be same gps signals etc as Australia.    If it were as simple as swapping a nav unit from q50 aud delivered im interested -just want to figure out what the missing plug is for before spending big $ on a second hand part for it to not work, and I guess with the head unit, if the band expander does the job (I got a 20mHz so should get the range I’m after) so should narrow my issue down to nav unit only.  I’d love to know what the extra cable on rv37 does and if I eliminate that part what it’ll do to the setup,    and also, if I can figure out what that head unit plug difference is, what does that cable do and where does it got can it be altered or re-plugged?! Excuse my ignorance what is ACP/AA, what does that stand for? (Apple car play? Android air play)? so If I swapped head units to save using a band expander, I’d likely lose those better features to have an oem Unit operational. Better to use a band expander and retain AirPlay options and newer version of head unit     provably best to band expand it, and focus on the nav unit. th isn’t  a big deal/ would be cool to have it working  from what I can tel we use a PAL Signal and Japan uses a NTSC signal  I don’t know if there’s a co better or if the screen only reads NTSC, or if it’s the tv module that needs replacing… no big deal don’t need it but more of a curiosity thing on that!   Thanks for the info re tyre sensors, helpful and great to know.  I was reading the online manual off Japan website and it seemed to make it sound more confusing than it is  I guess a rim replacement would require the sensors to be moved to a new rim to carry that option over?!     Thanks for the info regarding diagnostic mode. I appreciate your help mate. Trying to brainstorm here to find a solution to get as much gadgets as I can working! I plan to get my local Nissan tech to have a look too who used to be at an Infiniti dealer back in the day to see if any thing they have or idea can find a soliton. But hoping anyone here has gone down the same route to make life easier!!   i guess identifying the cable/plug differences and what they do would be a great way of finding out if the units are transferable    thanks again 
    • No idea about the remote start part. If the V37 nav is anything like other Nissan JDM vehicles, you can't get the factory Japanese nav working in australia, a card from a different car almost certainly won't work, those cards are usually matched to the serial number of the DCU.  You could be possibly swap out the components from a AuDM Q50 to get it working, but if this is a new model (2021+) 400R, then you will lose the newer features like ACP/AA.  That said, if you have ACP/AA, just use google maps.. I assume a band expander would be required to get the local radio stations, but don't forget the Japanese FM band is narrower than ours, so you still might not be able to receive all Australian stations. I can't see any reason the tyre pressure sensors won't work here, there is the sensor unit inside the rim and the receiver nearby in the wheel well.  I have never had to change the batteries on my 2015 Q50, so I assume they last quite a while.  A straight battery change shouldn't need them to be re-registered as they are the same unit, that should only be required if you replace a sensor with a new one.   Word of warning, if you ever go into the 'secret' diagnostics mode on the main screen, DO NOT EVER do a 'reset' in this menu, it will erase all of your model specific data in the DCU and you will need a trip to a dealer to re-program it all, which would be particularly painful being an import.  This applies to the AuDM Q50 too.
    • There is a known issue with the mix door motor on the Q50 which causes these symptoms, not sure if it is common on the Y51 though.
    • That ring thing is interesting how it's holding everything together 
×
×
  • Create New...