Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

trying to do something different and unique appeals to self worth... just like people who sticker up their car and have big fancy kits and wings. it doesn't matter what others think but the fact is that you like it and it appeals to you. so if you want to make 250rwkw NA and spend bucket loads of money go ahead. but...

not directing this at you joshua, but since we are on the topic of power. i still fail to understand the 'dream' people have to attain more and more power. i understand that power is a quick standard everyone uses to assess the engine - however you don't need massive amounts of power to go fast!! that said if you're simply wanting to make more power, then boost is your answer. if you want to create art (and i use the term loosely here for those ricey ones) then do what your wallet allows you to!

cheers

eug

  • Replies 113
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Nissan VH41DE... will give you your power output out of the box, its still NA, sounds beautiful, about the same weight or less than an RB(VH is an alloy engine)... and the conversion should leave change from $5K

Nissan VH41DE... will give you your power output out of the box, its still NA, sounds beautiful, about the same weight or less than an RB(VH is an alloy engine)... and the conversion should leave change from $5K

may as well go for a VH45...

unfortunately i dont think you'd see any change from $5K unless you could do a large portion of the work yourself. i know john has easily spent more than that and he initially did it on the cheap!

:) Im not giving anything else away

LOL... nothing is confirmed yet. i'm waiting until after i graduate (july) - however the RB25 has fux0red it's head gasket and measurements are currently being made for the transplant hint V

the plan will also be to build the RB30 as a side project and whack on the head from the 25 - which is far more appealing to me :)

If the displacement is equal, you will never get a NA car to match a FI car once you start modifying both.

does F1 count? :woot:

Yes it does.

Have a look at the projected power outputs of the old 3.0L engines. Then compare it to the 1.5L turbo engines of old. NA has double the displacement, 20 years of development by some of the finest mechanical engineers, and only makes 2/3 of the power.

The 2005 3.0L F1 engine makes about 1000hp, and you know that if an F1 engine builder can't make more power out of that litrage then no-one can. There are 2JZs making significantly more power than that.

does F1 count? :woot:

Yes it does.

Have a look at the projected power outputs of the old 3.0L engines. Then compare it to the 1.5L turbo engines of old. NA has double the displacement, 20 years of development by some of the finest mechanical engineers, and only makes 2/3 of the power.

The 2005 3.0L F1 engine makes about 1000hp, and you know that if an F1 engine builder can't make more power out of that litrage then no-one can. There are 2JZs making significantly more power than that.

I dont get what your trying to prove? Its obvious that your allways going to get more power out of a FI engine, but it doesnt mean you cant get decent power out of n/a.

a fairer comparison is a 1.5L boosted on 1 bar vs a 3L n/a, or a 2L boosted on 0.5 bar vs a 3L N/A, as they have the same theoretical capacity

im gnna try and hit 120rwkw in the n/a 34, do a manual conversion...then the rest is up to my little brother who gets his license in a few years!

shouldn be easy as, it wouldn't be far off that now would it?

Edited by SKiT_R31
I dont get what your trying to prove?

Have a read through the quoted posts, and work it out.

I said that, once you start modding, a FI engine of the same displacement as NA will always make more power. Eug asked if F1 engines counted. I provided evidence that, even in F1, forced induction ruled.

Its obvious that your allways going to get more power out of a FI engine

Not to ER3425GT, who started this thread.

He said he wanted "non turbo yet equally powerful to a turbo model". I told him that, displacement for displacement (and implied mod budget for mod budget) that just wasn't ever going to happen.

If it was "obvious", he wouldn't have asked.

im gnna try and hit 120rwkw in the n/a 34, do a manual conversion...then the rest is up to my little brother who gets his license in a few years!

i pushing out a measely 123rwkw with my 34 n/a...its not very impressive haha.i got a straight 2.5" all the way down that gives it a good kick and some other lil things hear and there.

really want to know what engines are a good fit for skylines....other than RB's

If you want to stay NA, there's only so many engines you can choose from.

If you're looking at staying in the family, bolt in a V8. If I remember correctly, a VH45DE can be tuned to make mad power while still being NA. I'm pretty sure they'll go out to 6.0L.

Nismo's 380RS track car makes 400ps from its 3.8L engine, and the bits required to build it are available if you've got the coin. There's a company in the US that offers 4.2L crate VQs, but they're set up for FI. You could use their sleeve kit and get custom, NA-oriented, bits to obtain the same displacement but with a high compression ratio and low reciprocating mass.

Bang-for-buck for the engine itself (so ignoring the costs install said engine into the car) its hard to go past a Chev small block.

Have a read through the quoted posts, and work it out.

I said that, once you start modding, a FI engine of the same displacement as NA will always make more power. Eug asked if F1 engines counted. I provided evidence that, even in F1, forced induction ruled.

Not to ER3425GT, who started this thread.

He said he wanted "non turbo yet equally powerful to a turbo model". I told him that, displacement for displacement (and implied mod budget for mod budget) that just wasn't ever going to happen.

If it was "obvious", he wouldn't have asked.

Now heres where your wrong. There is no reason why an n/a cant produce more power than a factory turbo, from your quote, you are saying that it cant happen, well it can. whats a stock rb25det got? 140rwkw? You could happily get that out of an rb25de, more even, and thats with the same capacity.

But if the question is, can a N/A produce more power than a turbo, then no, because no matter how much work you put into an n/a, the same can be done + boost imo.

as for the origional question, 180-200kw is achievable with a 3L bottom end, and with less work than people seem to think.

To be fair the RBs fail at NA. I'd be much more inclined on going a different car or going to the length of transplanting a VQ35 or something like that in it. The VQs straight off the bat make more power than any of the non-GTR turbo RBs, and respond nicely to mods. If you kept the hood down, you might even be able to pass it off as a normal NA skyline :thumbsup:

i got a non turbo and i see no point in working them unless for track work. whats the use when u can buy a turbo for nearly the same price. i few of my mates have 33's and with front mount, 12psi n a 3 inch exhaust they all made between 205-212rwkw so why bother spending thousands on less then 150rwkw

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had absolutely no symptoms whatsoever that anything was wrong.... I'm very happy it was all spotto'd and re-bled and re-torqued and aligned though. Will be picking it up tomorrow and undoubtedly be like "Oh, that clunk is gone" "Oh, the car really wants to drive straight" "Oh, that pedal feels better" "Oh, it feels like I've gained 25hp" "Oh, the handbrake works now" It should have been a sign that the new Project Mu shoes had 3mm of pad depth on them out of the box, and the OEM ones from 25 years ago that we took out also had 3mm of pad depth, implying the issue was not, and never was the shoes, but we put that down to it not being adjusted correctly. It wasn't, but it wasn't even adjustable at all given one side was boned and the T Junction of the cables was on a 45 degree angle, the non-working side being the one on the massive angle. Obviously when I had adjusted it and reset it and re-tensioned it I had either got it stuck or something along those lines. Oh well. Live and learn and absolutely could have been catastrophically worse so I'm rationalizing it as a win, kinda. I also got the chance to measure the distance between rear rim and the suspension arm/shocks and found a 30mm rubber block only just doesn't fit there. Which is great to know before ordering wheels, when I assumed 30mm was easy. The man with the Porsche adapters has rims that use 23.9mm of that space, so it's safe to assume I have between 23.9 and 29.9mm of space there to play with on the inside. The wheels looked pretty stupidly pokey with the 20mm spacers on the rear, only for me to find that the studs come out another 12mm and the wheel doesn't actually sit flush with the hub because you're supposed to cut your original studs. The wheels do have cutouts that kinda accomodate it, but not fully. So my 20mm spacer was anywhere between 25mm and 35mm. ~25mm and send it will determine on where the wheels sit with the spacers on. When I put the pads in for the track day I will mess around with spacers (with wheels that do not clear studs properly when mounted to spacers) and do more math, for the last time, for the 7th time.
    • Lucky pick up Best to find these things before something horrible happened to the yoke flange thingies I would hate to think what would happen if it dropped the tailshaft  Hopefully the holes are not flogged out in the yokes and it was just the bolts that got munted  As for the hand brake.....ouch, look like the disc got rather hot, and I assume smokey, I recall when I had a front caliper seize on the Commodore, there was lots of smoke and the disc was glowing cherry red when I was able to eventually stop and have a look, and stopping a big heavy car, going down a big hill with some rather high RPM down shifts and some hand brake action is something that makes you think hard about life
    • One of the things that never seemed right was the handbrake. Put in some nice new Project Mu shoes. We figured the rears were out, so why not. We're right there. My handbrake never worked well anyway. Well, this is them, 15km later. 67fdcf94-9763-4522-97a4-8f04b2ad0826.mp4 Keen eyes would note the difference in this picture too:   And this picture: Also, this was my Tailshaft bolts: 4ad3c7dd-51d0-4577-8e72-ba8bc82f6e87.mp4 It turns out my suspicions that one side of the handbrake cable was stretched all along were pretty accurate, as was my intuition that I didn't want to drop the tailshaft to swap them on jack stands and wasn't entirely sure about bolt torque. I have since bought the handbrake cables which have gone in. I'm very glad that I went to my mechanic friend who owns an alignment machine to get an alignment before the track day, because his eyes spotted these various levels of "WHAT THE f**k IS GOING ON HERE?". Turns out the alignment wasn't that bad, considering we changed the adjustable castor arms out for un-adjustable castor arms, and messed with the heights. Car drove pretty good with one side of the handbrake stuck on, unbleedable rear brakes, alignment screwy, and the tailshaft about to go flying and generally being a death trap waiting to happen! (I did have covid) (I maintain I adjusted the handbrake correctly, but movement caused shennanigans and/or I dislodged the spring on the problem side somewhat, or god knows what). G R E G G E D
    • Very interesting, im not sure how all those complications fit in to running a haltech instead of a stock ecu but I'm starting to think I'm a bit out of my league.
    • I just put 2 and 2 together. This is a Neo converted R32. The Neo ECU (in concert with the R34's AC controller) runs the AC quite differently to how the R32 ECU and AC controller do it. If you just drop it all in, it won't work. There is some tricky wiring required, including changing to the pressure switch that the Neo controllers want to see. I don't know what it is, because mine was done by a guru. It was a year or so after I did that transplant before he worked out what needed to be done.
×
×
  • Create New...