Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ah k cheers.

I have asked CRD for an e-manage install and tune but they did not recommend it for my car...apparently coilpacks are known the blow because of the e-manage blue, so they did not want to take on the job, or risk it - even with the coilpack resistor mod

  • Replies 113
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

im not sure exactly where Croyden Racing Developments are, but they have done a lot of RB engines in the past

i would try find somewhere/some place that knows RB engines, so have a look around the site

check out some of the racing guys sigs and ask them where they would recommend taking the car, like Duncan, DirtGarage, Snowman etc etc

Silverwater Rd.

Drive slowly, its very easy to miss them..

They are awseome.. but you pay for it out of the ass..

lol gnna try DRC in greenacre too.

will give CRD a go after wakefield on the 21st.

im gnna learn how to install new brake pads next week:d woot....well trial and error.

thanks for all the help guys.

Silverwater Rd.

Drive slowly, its very easy to miss them..

They are awseome.. but you pay for it out of the ass..

yeah - heard that aswell

who is DirtGarages engine builder??? or do they do it themselves?

yeah - heard that aswell

who is DirtGarages engine builder??? or do they do it themselves?

pretty sure its them..

PM. them.. their on their forums..

Saw their silver 32 track GTR.. :whistling: stunning shit..

If i didnt do all the work myself and had the money, it would be Advan or DirtGarage

OH!.. Try advan!.. Its onl silverwater too.. drive slow again.. very easy to miss..

Wow Eug!!! this went so far off topic sorry man, just wanted some opinions and i got a full blown argument going over Fi vs N/a...gah, my bad.

If you want me to end this thread to put it simply, i went and got a qoute for a LS1 V8 twin turbo set up, best of both worlds...cubic inches...forced induction...i can still play around with the engine as if it was an N/a engine before the twins...i can leave it until im off p's...the only thing i have to really wait for is the news on weather i can fit it in the engine bay, if i get the go ahead, thats what im doing. :/ If the engine bay has ot be modified then obviously theres the problem of Vic Roads meddling and EPA'ing the vehicle and stating that there has been 'structural damage' therefore my car will never be roadworthy, other than that, fingers crossed!

I do appreciate everyone that stuck on the ball and helped me out, especially since Eug pretty much wrapped this story up with me quite a while ago when the thread started.

Either way FI or NA the majority of us are Nissan owners with the same passions for our vehicles, don't loose sight of that and fight within the groups, cause i think we have alot more to offer than that.

Although for me now its the morals of changing over to a GM engine, I, don't think i can look at my skyline and go thats a skyline if i do it....and well, i love my skylines, it may ruin the experience of owning one, or it could open up a whole new door to tunning in my eyes...i just don;t know yet, but either way, my goals are to own a 34 GTR before i start a family, and thats a must on my to do list, so either way if i compromise on this one for the experience than i have patience to wait for my GT-R. I think it smore of an aproval im waiting for form other members to push me in th eright direction really. :wub:

If you want me to end this thread to put it simply, i went and got a qoute for a LS1 V8 twin turbo set up, best of both worlds...cubic inches...forced induction

That would be a near undrivable car on the streets.

Your looking at 400+ kw of pure torque then emense power.

Its simply a coffin on wheels.

As a pure track car/occasional weekend car, absolutely. But as a daily driver your looking at a stupendus fuel bill, a ridiculous clutch, constant oversteer a silly tight diff, constant replace of semi slicks..

BUT THE NOISE!!!! ohhhhhh *drool*

Honestly.. stick to a GTR, LS1+TT R34 would be a ballistic track car.. but your shooting yourself in the foot as a daily driver.

thats my 2c

Edited by GTS4WD
That would be a near undrivable car on the streets.

Your looking at 400+ kw of pure torque then emense power.

Its simply a coffin on wheels.

As a pure track car/occasional weekend car, absolutely. But as a daily driver your looking at a stupendus fuel bill, a ridiculous clutch, constant oversteer a silly tight diff, constant replace of semi slicks..

BUT THE NOISE!!!! ohhhhhh *drool*

Honestly.. stick to a GTR, LS1+TT R34 would be a ballistic track car.. but your shooting yourself in the foot as a daily driver.

thats my 2c

not really

in fact its really driveable on the street

if its the Gen-TT kits that he's looking at they only pump about 5-6psi into an internally stock LS1 just to make it a bit 'happier'

its as driveable and pleasurable as a normal LS1, and boost doesnt hit hard as it relatively low

if you drive any car normally the fuel bill wont be crazy, and the clutch will only really have to be a exedy HD or equivalent, and tyres, well that depends on ur right foot

ps this is all from what ive read, not what ive driven or been in :D

pps - i say if thats what you want, then go for it

^^^^ shane, dont go to DRC for tune...

take it to unigroup or Powertune..

im going to get mine done at powertune..

rb25de vct with stage 1 tomei poncams & adj cam gears with a emanage blue ecu with both injector & ignition harness..

^^^^ shane, dont go to DRC for tune...

take it to unigroup or Powertune..

im going to get mine done at powertune..

rb25de vct with stage 1 tomei poncams & adj cam gears with a emanage blue ecu with both injector & ignition harness..

hey dori,

thats cool man. thats for letting me know

power tune is about 15 mins from my place.

can you let me know how you go + their charge rate. how much those poncams set you back ?

Thanks!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And if you want more power, more reliably, and cheaper, go get the Aussie RB... The 4L Barra and put that in instead.
    • No cats will keep discolouring the rear bar. Sends white paint a weird yellow stain. Cut and polish normally gets it out, but you'll be doing that every fortnight I found.
    • Both heads will be equally reliable or unreliable depending on what you do to them.  Stock the RB26 head will flow more. You have access to the stock intake ITB manifold on the RB26 cheaply which flows really well(1000hp+).   Arguably more aftermarket support for RB26, though in Aus we love our RB30 SOHC heads too.    The only downsides to the RB26 head is if you have a VL commodore and want to keep the SOHC look.  Where you may have an issue is drilling out the rb30 block for the bigger head studs but if you are building a big power motor you'd probably put bigger studs on the SOHC head too.  This is just about finding a good machine shop, sometimes easier said than done.  RB30 head worked can make big power just like a Rb26 head, so really it actually more comes down to what your preference is for your car.  People now even making billet versions of both.
    • 2630s work perfectly well. There is something to be said for just using the 30 head, as it saves all the pain of the conversion, still makes tons of power, still sounds cool, etc etc. 2630 will obviously make more power again, but the differences are not stupidly big. It really depends on whether you're racing for sheep stations or not. If it's dead serious, then it's a 26 head. If it's just for fun, it could go either way. But the 26 head and the effort to get it set up, etc etc, is part of the fun.
    • I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani Refurbed astra pump thats the cover for it in the boot I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
×
×
  • Create New...