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i blew my turbo, it was making a squealing noise on boost, put it back on 7psi and it lasted a good six months and every now and then i could help my self and put it back up to 12psi, didnt blow completely before i changed it.

as a replacement, this is the turbo i have HERE if you can put one of these together i would higly recomend it.

sounds like the exhaust turbines lost a few blades.

lilhaulerz drop the dump pipe and check the exhaust wheel. nizmonut could be on the money. Well it makes sense coming from your diagnosis......kind of. If there's anything missing off the exhaust wheel, check the cat for the bits.

Edited by KeyMaker

i've check everything, i dont think im gettin way ahead my self, car is now making noises from exhaust housing... replace bov , change plugs, check all cooler piping, all nutz and bolts, check if anything in intake pipe, check air filter/afm, check front wheel ( will be check the rear soon ) ...

Sound is definately coming from turbo... no where else... anyone in brisbane i could go to , that not going to say every is wrong and quote me and arm and leg... ???

Oh k, by whom ....

Just any mechanic ??? Im in brisbane and have been ripped off by way to many people, will not mention workshops, but does anyone recommend anyone in brisbane ???

What am i expected to pay for a diagnostic... ???

Oh k, by whom ....

Just any mechanic ??? Im in brisbane and have been ripped off by way to many people, will not mention workshops, but does anyone recommend anyone in brisbane ???

What am i expected to pay for a diagnostic... ???

Then do it yourself and save some money. You only need basic tools.

First check 'all' lines and clamps that are pressurised. Check the intake pipes to the turbo including the condition of the airfilter.

Have a good hard look at the exhaust manifold (take off the heat shields) and inspect for leaks or tell tale broken stud.

Take off the dump pipe and inspect the turbine blades, use a small mirror and a torch if necessary.

This will narrow it down allot and take only a few hours at most.

I have no idea where that guy gets his work done..

but 3-5k for a high flow turbo ??? wtf ??? i could get a GTRS ball bearing kit plus power fc for that money !

GCG sells hiflows for $1900 and thats an off the shelf item too ... I guess 1k for a turbo place to do one...

$900 to diagnoise your car ??? hmmmzz

I have done everything you mention rev210... accept for check turbine wheel ( rear wheel ) will do that tommorow....but everything else show signs it must be turbo...

900 for diagnostic bro, expect about 3400-5100 hundred for a good highflow

Are you just trying to be a tool?

Should cost about $100-150 for someone to have a look at the exhaust wheel. Is it any laggier than normal?

would it be more simple to stand a large screw driver up on the centre catridge of the turbo and stick your ear on the handle and listen.

saves pulling the dump off.

10 sec diagnosis, if its noisy as hell and whirring or growling then pull the waste gate actuator off and wire the flap open so you can still drive your car. if its purring nice and smooth you can disregard the turbo as faulty.

danger man can you expalin this in more detail. Could i just disconnect the metal pipe/piece that runs to the flat off and wire it open ? instead of removing the whole actuator ???

Doing this is so i dont build boost? but the turbine wheel still be spinning still rite ??? So same thing as driving off boost ???

Just a question.. Thanks for the idea bro...

Buying a blown rb25 turbo today, and taking it to MTQ Salibury ...

What do i tell them to do with it, " Hey mate, can you high flow this " .... Do i need specs of what they should hi-flow it to.. Or they should know what to do...

I got like a 1k budget... so hoping its not too exxy :D If it is.. gotta wait a month

disconecting the waste gate actuator and wiring open the gate will help stop the turbo creating boost as long as you stay below 3.5k rpm, so will help you get from a to b without causing exessive force on the turbo if it is infact damaged or faulty.

but first things first. start the car and use a long screw drive as a stethiscope.

if you have a stuffed bearing, or impeller you will be able to here it thru the handle of the screwdriver.

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