Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, from our experience using both engine and chassis dynos (roller) on over 20 Skylines..

Standard R32 GTST

162 kw

220 bhp

110 rwkw

145 rwhp

Standard R33 GTST

185 kw

250 bhp

125 rwkw

170 rwhp

Standard R34 GTT

206 kw

275 bhp

145 rwkw

195 rwhp

Modified R32 GTST

265 kw

355 bhp

210 rwkw

280 rwhp

Modified R33 GTST

285 kw

380 bhp

220 rwkw

295 rwhp

Modified R34 GTT

305 kw

410 bhp

240 rwkw

320 rwhp

Our old RB30DET (with a GTR box in 2wd)

345 kw

465 bhp

280 rwkw

375 rwhp

Whilst the losses aren't perfectly linear they are pretty close, a R32 GTST with manual transmission looses about 52 kw through the drive train, an R33 GTST also with manual transmission losses about 60 kw through the drive train and an R34 GTT looses about 62 kw through the drive train.

It does not seem to matter what the rear wheel power is the losses are fairly constant ie; if you double the power output at the wheels the losses don't double. They go up a little bit, but not even remotely close to linear.

This is a bit of a political subject because it is always preferable to tell people the highest power number possible. So I often here stuff like.........

"My car when standard had 185 kw at the engine and 125 rwkw, now it has 250 rwkw, so it must have 370 kw at the engine. That's 500 bhp". Well, sorry if it deflates some people, but I believe it would really be 250 + 60 = 310 kw (415 bhp).

For the clutchless people, the losses seem to be about 20 rwkw more than for manuals.

Hope that adds to the discussion

Hi guys, let me throw this one in for further thought....

It is accepted that energy can neither be gained nor lost, however it can be converted into other types of energy (that's how brakes work, turning kinetic energy into heat). Of course the Einstein E=MC2 disproves this, but I don't think there is any atomic reactions going on in my Skyline.

So if the losses are linear, where is the extra energy going? It's not "LOST", it can realisically only be converted into heat. If my gearbox and diff heated up at that sort of rate, there would be big lumps of molten aluminium all over the dyno room floor.

Ponder on that for a while

Originally posted by Sydneykid

Of course the Einstein E=MC2 disproves this, but I don't think there is any atomic reactions going on in my Skyline.

E = energy (we all know that one)

C = the speed of light (assumed to be a constant once but isn't)

M = the Mass defect (subtract the 'lost' positron/electron mass from the specific nuclear reaction from memory).

Conservation of energy applies to this equation still.

Thanks Guys it seems to be about 30% or there abouts if you are going to put a number to it . I wanted to know because after putting hks intake pod 3 inch mandrel bent exhaust hks ssbov and 11 psi boost rwkw only showed 165kw and i thought great thats only 10 % more than stock but its more like 20% more

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...