Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So since I haven't had a PM, i'll give Mike a shameless plug :D

Found my car advertised on ebay of all places. Looked at description, photos etc. I was VERY impressed from photos alone how clean it looked. Completely bone stock. Went there next day in person with a mate of mine who has had his r33 for about 5 years now, we test drove it. I was extremely impressed how tight everything felt etc. I'd looked at a few R33's prior to that one and I wasn't impressed to say the least... I was pleased and my mate and I thought the car was mint, so I called Paul Bell from State Roads (VERY good pre-inspection service) and got the car inspected same day. Paul finished up took me outside for a smoke and a discussion about his findings, he told me he had inspected hundreds of skylines in his time and that was one of the best he had seen. Only thing he found with it was steering rack boots need changing and a manifold stud was broken, other than that, nothing, no rust, no imperfections. Car had factory paint thickness on all panels execpt for right rear quarter which he said had some cosmetic work done to it, no big deal, nothing structural. We went back and made him an offer, Mike agreed and I left a deposit. Went in next day paid for car... Had to wait 5 days (and God was it the longest wait of my life!!) for VicRoads due to them being booked out for a pits inspection before registration. Picked the car up and have been rapt ever since.

Sorry for such a long post. Glam Groups (Mike) gets my thumbs up. He mainly does compliance work these days so it was a lucky find for me to have a car at his workshop.

Anyone considering getting an import I highly recommend him. www.glamgroups.com.au

Cheers.

Ev.

Trel, the car inspection bloke. Do you have his details? I need to have a full inspection done when in july or so when im looking to buy an r33 as well, and he sounds like he knows what he's talking about. How much does he change for the inspection?

For a non-import vehicle it is $199 for an import it is $260, seems a bit steep but you have to remember, you would much rather spend that amount and get the car checked as opposed to paying 15k and then finding out the car is a dunga! As far as I know RACV and NRMA etc. only do a 100 point check, Paul does a 250 point. www.stateroads.com.au Ph. 9850-8000. Generally, if you call early enough you can get the inspection done same day if you find a car youre really keen on... Good luck mate.

Ev.

Put a deposit on a r32 gtst, took it for a pre-inspection to EAS, motor was on its last legs, returned it and eventually got my deposit back after a couple of months.

Was notified by friend who told me that they pulled out the engine and dropped in a rb25 after i gave them the pre-inspection results...

Although my friend got a good condition r32 from them :laugh:

I guess it just comes down to the luck of the draw

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Which are almost all nonsense. Ignore. Obviously enough, if it is not a porous block, then any such thing is a waste of time. External block surface? Would be a waste of time, if the block was actually porous. It would need to go on the inside, which is inaccessible, and even if the block was open deck so that that area was acessible, it would be unlikely to work. But seeing as this is all nonsense, stop worrying about it.   If the coolant is coming from the side of the block it is 10:1 odds that it is either a welch plug, or it is coming from the head gasket. Maybe from one of the coolant lines feeding the turbo, or even the heater. Liquids that leak from up high can travel sideways along casting surfaces or pipes, etc on the engine before finding a spot from which to drop.
    • Yeah rust is sadly also a bit of an issue on my car. Doubt there is many cars out there that actually have no rust in those aeas. The strut towers look fine but some of the surounding metal sheets show a bit of brown cancer peeking out from in between. I hope I can make do with external remedies and won't have to rip open the whole front end anytime soon. It looks somewhat minor compared to some shit I have seen online. I have worked on a few cars but I expect the RB26 to be my first 'engine out' job at some point.
    • Welcome Jan, It's very likely that you are in over your head. You'll just have to learn to swim hard and fast! These old rust buckets have more ways to bankrupt us than almost any other car. But hopefully there's nothing wrong that ruins the whole show! We can help a fair bit. There's plenty here who've been fixing these things for >25 years. cheers
    • Hi all. First off, thanks for reading my post. So end of last season I put the car away knowing I was leaking at least two fluids. One of them being rear turbo's oil. I went to my car recently that is waiting in a garage to take a peek with my boroscope to try and see if I can narrow down the souce of oil before taking it out of storage. What I found is not so great I think. The rear turbo is (probably) leaking from the oil drain. The hose and it's clamps are probably the original ones, so most likely just worn out or loose. However I spotted a line of rust going straight down from the turbo oil feed, as if water leaked out of there at some point. Also explains the red liquid that was dripping from my front subframe, which I initially thought was power steering. I can even see coolant drops hanging off the side of the oil pan as well. After a quick hit on the web I found a select few discussions about porous engine blocks. My question is if the pics of the turbo oil feed and the left hand side of the block (imgur link below) looks like it could be exactly that to you. Maybe someone in the community has seen it before and knows what it looks like. If it actually is a porously leaking block, has anyone attempted at fixing it with simple methods like putting a sealer in the cooling system and using something like jb weld on the block surface, or will it just leak in 2 weeks again? I could not find any detailed info or pictures on this topic. If I need a new engine, tell me softly. https://imgur.com/a/knVvmZ8
    • Hey all. I'm 23 and from Germany, September last year I bought a mildly modded 1995 GTR Vspec. Looks great and was fun so far, but I already have a list of issues of various severity that I need to take care of, potentially growing longer the closer I look. I just hope I'm not in over my head, I really want to keep the car and work towards it becoming great. I hope y'all will help me out in getting there, I am positive I will need help sooner rather than later to figure out how to proceed. greetings, some pics of the car I posted to imgur. https://imgur.com/a/StKkabz
×
×
  • Create New...