Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Pair of front "outlaw" brake callipers. Basicly the same as wilwoods although they are rarely heard of they are fairly large in the states being used in alot of speedway cars.

Come with Adaptors to fit skyline/silvia etc etc.

80% endless pads

Freshly service, new seals, nipples and dust boots.

Accept up to a 355mm rotor, was using them with 34*s previously

Asking $600 with the pads.

Photos and piston sizes to come latter

Selling due to upgrade

Apexi pod filters with cast apexi adaptors to suit R32 GTR.

Okay condition

Asking $200

Selling due to new intake set-up

R32 Short shifter.

Not sure what brand but has jap stickers on it....

New and unused.

Asking $150

Photos up latter

Selling as car already had one fitted

Current model Nissan Maxima wheels NO tires

17 by 8's not sure of the offset but can measure latter

Perfect condition removed as soon as the car was driven from the dealer

Asking $400

Photos latter

2007 model Z33 6 speed transmission. Complete but has been removed from the cases. Done bugger all Km's. No external selectors but everything internal is 100% complete and imaculate

Asking $600

Removed and replaced with a VQ40/ sequential transmission so no longer needed.

Brand new R34 GTR N1 crankshaft

Never used, bought crate engine and have replaced with full counter crank

Asking $1000

Photos latter

Brand new hypertune RB26 plenum. May sell with 90mm throttle body but not sure as yet.

Never fitted, has been tested on flow bench but never fitted to an engine

Asking $bit less than hypertunes price

Reason for sale, was deamed not good enough for the purpose so making one from scratch.

More stuff to add latter on.

Everything located in sydney, may send at buyers expense....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219521-gtr-and-general-nissan-parts/
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just install a grease nipple into the centre of the outer steel of the FUCA. Make sure the bushes aren't long enough to touch each other underneath that nipple. Cut a few mm off each if need be. Then you can push grease in there while it is all assembled. That was the very first thing I did (to all 4 ends) of the FUCAs on my 32 when I put Whiteline adjustable bushes into them. They would squeeze the grease out real fast, and I could squeeze it back in faster.
    • @GTSBoy I found the issue (sort of) when I took apart the bushing again, it was completely dry inside! When I experimented with it, all the grease would push out when I would compress the bushings. I wonder if this has anything to do with me putting in the poly bush first on both sides and then pushing in the metal barrel. Maybe I should have put in the metal barrel first then the rubber bushings so the spread pattern is different.   It's fixed (for now).
    • Just redid that entire job. 4 hours, but tightened everything properly. Had to jack the rotor instead of having the car on blocks as there was no room for the FUCA arms to tighten and the j arm. All good now. Cheers for the help!
    • I would sell those side feeds before you hydra-lock a motor. I won't say too much about Yellow Jackets because I'll hurt people's feelings, however ask those that tune RBs day in/out what they think of them.
    • The 1000ccs are side feeds but they're not currently installed, had my old factory ones in for leak testing purposes, only decided on them because front facing plenums and good top feed rail kits are out of my budget at the moment, are they really that problematic? Had a set of yellow jackets that lasted me 5 years, no real issues, only replaced them chasing this misfire issue that ended up not being ignition related 😄  
×
×
  • Create New...