Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I will soon install the RB in my Silvia S14...and before that I want to make sure that my RB won't fail soon (like my SR did) So I want to change all the weak point of the RB25...I would like to change the bearing on the crank and connecting rod..but could only find some for RB26... are they using the same???

If not, were can I find RB25 bearing (after market one or new one)? (I live in Canada...so I can't go to the Nissan dealer)

Here is the list of thing I plan to change to "refresh" the engine:

crank and connecting rod bearing

headgasket for metal one to lower C/R to ~8.5

New Ring

Exhaust cam gear

(I will also upgrade the turbo, injectors, ECU.....)

Should I get the connecting rod shot peened and strengthened ?

Does this process really help? how much does it cost ~$

While I'm there should I put stock RB26DETT pistons ? are they bolt-on ?

Is the stock intake manifold too restrictive for ~275rwkw ???

My goal is ~ 275rwkw

Thanks!

Originally posted by meggala

[brb 26 cran and rods fit also the pistons fit and are slightly lower compression  [/b]

Do you mean that crank bearing fit or the actual crank itself....so the GTR is exactly the same size (rod and crank) (except stroke) physicaly....it's only made stronger?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was poking through the R34 wiring diagrams vs R33 and noticed that the R34 has proper headlight relays while the R33 is like the R32 and sends full headlight power through the headlight switch. I'm not afraid of wiring but I really would like to do this in a way that looks OEM (clipping into open positions on the OEM relay box) and also unlike the factory wiring which interlocks the high beam and low beam on the halogen series 1 GTR headlights I want to make it such that turning on the high beams keeps the low beams on as well. Any advice on how to locate the specific connectors + crimp terminals + relays I need? I was thinking one NO relay for low beams and another for combined high + low running off the factory high beam headlight connector. I don't really want to splice into a crusty old probably discontinued factory harness so fully reversible is my goal here.
    • Pretty sure they run the same engine as the Q50 hybrid which specifies 95 RON.  I ran 98 in mine for a while, but it made no difference in performance or economy, so I have been using 95 for the last few years.  I have never hit 6.0L/100km, but have returned mid to high 6 on the highway.  Being a hybrid, fuel economy is a lot more dependant on how you drive it.  At 110km/h, mine never goes into EV mode on the highway, so returns closer to 7.5L/100. urban driving can return low 8s if you are careful or over 10 if you are a bit more enthusiastic on the throttle.
    • About a quarter of what you want to do. It's only R7R, not R&dismantle&replaceparts&reassemble&R. ? It is stock. I already told you, you will NOT have broken those. It's f**king 4th gear for Christ's sake. You just chipped the teeth off.
    • *waits* for chop idle videos and TT kit hanging off the motor. I like these sounds now, my inner bogan is growing.    
    • Want to buy a good running Rb20det in Sydney preferably complete or long block 
×
×
  • Create New...