Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

AIR/FUEL RATIO CHECK

(Valid for R34 Models ONLY. Not valid for R34 GTR)

This a great 5min test to see if your O2 sensor/Oxygen sensor is working correctly within spec.

All you will need is a paper clip or small length of wire with its end's bared.

Bend your new object into a U shape. This will become your 'Looping' tool.

You will need to pull out the Diagnostic Port located below the steering column to the right.

post-48970-1210988034_thumb.jpgpost-48970-1210987592_thumb.jpg

Step 1: Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature.

Step 2: Once your engine has been warmed. Turn engine off, turn key back to IGN.

Step 3: Hold your loop to terminals CHK and IGN on the diagnostic port for 2 seconds or more then disconnect. This now places

your car into Diagnostic Mode II.

Step 4: Start the engine and run at idle for 10 seconds or until first Engine Check Lamp Blink, then hold at 2000 rpm or higher.

Check that the the Engine Check Lamp blinks at least 5 times in 10 seconds.

Step 5: Once you have completed the test, turn the vehicle off. Turn Key to IGN and repeat step 3 to

turn off diagnostics.

It is a bit hard to count to 10 and count the Engine Check Lamp blinks at the same time so i got my mate to use my mobile phone's stop watch. I said GO and counted and he finished with STOP after the time was up. Simple!

I had an idea that my o2 sensor was shot and this test proved it by only blinking 3 & 4 times during tests.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219569-r34-oxygen-sensor-test/
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...
AIR/FUEL RATIO CHECK

(Valid for R34 Models ONLY. Not valid for R34 GTR)

This a great 5min test to see if your O2 sensor/Oxygen sensor is working correctly within spec.

All you will need is a paper clip or small length of wire with its end's bared.

Bend your new object into a U shape. This will become your 'Looping' tool.

You will need to pull out the Diagnostic Port located below the steering column to the right.

post-48970-1210988034_thumb.jpgpost-48970-1210987592_thumb.jpg

Step 1: Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature.

Step 2: Once your engine has been warmed. Turn engine off, turn key back to IGN.

Step 3: Hold your loop to terminals CHK and IGN on the diagnostic port for 2 seconds or more then disconnect. This now places

your car into Diagnostic Mode II.

Step 4: Start the engine and run at idle for 10 seconds or until first Engine Check Lamp Blink, then hold at 2000 rpm or higher.

Check that the the Engine Check Lamp blinks at least 5 times in 10 seconds.

Step 5: Once you have completed the test, turn the vehicle off. Turn Key to IGN and repeat step 3 to

turn off diagnostics.

It is a bit hard to count to 10 and count the Engine Check Lamp blinks at the same time so i got my mate to use my mobile phone's stop watch. I said GO and counted and he finished with STOP after the time was up. Simple!

I had an idea that my o2 sensor was shot and this test proved it by only blinking 3 & 4 times during tests.

hi man

I think my o2 sensor is stuffed. Im hoping anyway. I get an engine cut at high revs sometimes, it is one pain in the ass please if u can shead some light on the situation much appreciated

  • 1 month later...
hi man

I think my o2 sensor is stuffed. Im hoping anyway. I get an engine cut at high revs sometimes, it is one pain in the ass please if u can shead some light on the situation much appreciated

hey mate sounds like the same problem im having, under load at about 4600RPM it cuts out and hits like a rev limiter ? anyway have a read of this

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Mi...500-t32356.html

pretty much ruled mine down to this but im just gonna replace with spit fires :banana:

  • 7 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • careful when running the car after a boil over. Ive heard you can lose enough coolant that it won't show the right temps because of too much air in the system (or something like that). Make sure the levels are good before trying again.  Maybe a mobile mechanic can come have a look with their scan tool ?
    • OK, just for some extra clarity - there is more than one option at Frenchy's. 1. You can buy the whole kit - with or without the actual compressor. The whole kit includes mounts, hoses, condensor, etc. That's either ~$2200 or ~$2800. No surgery required with this option. 2. You can buy just the bracket (~$600), or the bracket with the compressor (~$1200). Either of this or the above option "without the compressor" is if you already have an Echo comp or you are able to source one locally. Whatever the case, in this option, you will need surgery done on your hoses to adapt to the new compressor. When I said "the Frenchy's kit", I meant the whole kit in option 1. It is obviously somewhat more $$ than a $1500 OEM compressor. But if I had to spend $1500 on an OEM compressor, I would certainly consider spending double that to renew and significantly update everything forward of the firewall. Another option is to rebuild your original compressor. My R34 comp is currently dead and I will be most likely doing that to it if the spare one in the shed is also leaky.
    • I’m thinking that’s the route I’ll  go, thanks for the input!
    • Hey all, my 2004 Nissan Skyline 350GT overheated the other day with coolant boiling and leaking out of the coolant reservoir when I was parking. So today, I started it up again just to see if it was a thermostat/head gasket issue. After about 20 mins of running, temps were normal again, no coolant was leaking out and the upper reservoir hose was warm but my engine suddenly cut off. I checked the oil dipstick and cap when it was running and there was no white foamy residue and the exhaust did not have white smoke. I tried starting up the car again but it would only crank, similar to when I had a camshaft sensor issue just that now there’s no check engine light on the dash. Any ideas? Unfortunately I don’t have an OBD2 that can read the Nissan's programme.
    • Bump on this to not make another post, had a ‘head drain’ leak on me and have the engine out as we speak. Planning on just putting a new freeze plug back in , plug the tapped holes and just be done with that headache.    Now I still want to relieve pressure to allow oil to pass down the blocks returns easier. I’ve seen catch cans with multiple vents help folks with this issue on this forum.  I’m wanting to make my own. I have some pictures here of my setup if anyone can help how I should plumb and design the catch can I would deeply appreciate it !   rb25 Oil upgrades: 1.0mm restrictor n1 pump/billet gears extended crank collar  extended sump with trap doors/w welded fitting    
×
×
  • Create New...