Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I wouldn't know what to think. There are several people here with Patrol clutches now. To you guys - How many hard launches has the clutch withstood so far?

Still got the button clutch in my R33 that came with it, but I can tell you my Patrol as seen plenty of high rpm launches... :( Pulled out a stump last weekend, front hubs locked, low range, dropping clutch at about 4.5-5krpms, clutch has never had a problem. My chassis and tow points (and the tyre marks on my driveway) on the other hand....

The cheaper 3ltr Patrol that was released (I think in the late GQ model days?? can't remember) uses a RB30 (no D, T or even E!) that produces about 2 or 3kw less at the flywheel than the RB30E in the VLs. A carby and high torque@low rpm tuning will do that to you though.

I think they would be fine for a stock to mildly tuned Skyline, but I can understand too many high rpm launches could start causing glazing and other problems. The compound used would be designed for low rpm clutching/declutching whilst towing, crawling along 4x4 tracks, etc - fairly tacky for high torque. Never designed for high rpm use.

  • Replies 87
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

should not be a problem for high rpm dumps with gtst.

the main difference will be the mesh will happen at lower rpm in a harder fashion.

4wd clutches clamp real hard at all rpm's and is effectively just like dumping them.

Just try driving one - its designed to be either on or off.

So it is not designed to be driven while riding the clutch - thats all.

If you take off with riding the slipping clutch all the time this clutch is not for you.

If you are either going to dump the clutch or let the clutch fully engage before accelerating it is perfect.

It comes down to this - are you able to engage the clutch before accelerating or do you have to slip it to get up to 2000rpm so you can then fully engage.

This is a question I don't know the answer to as I have yet to convert mine from auto.

So someone tell me what rpm do you fully engage the clutch and do you have to let it slip to get up to that speed?

The answer is...

If you can either dump the clutch or let the clutch fully engage before bashing the accelerator on it is perfect.

If you have to let it slip a lot then stay away from 4wd clutch as they get hot real quick due to the compound being designed for low slippage. By hot I mean they smell and get spongy.

One more thing you should consider is the maximum RPM designed for the clutch. The absolute last thing you want is the clutch exceeding its max RPM and exploding, most likely taking the flywheel with it. I've seen what happens when an RB20DET loses its flywheel at 4,000RPM, lets say the car was written off. Both chassis rails cut, smashed gearbox, broken engine block, bits of the flywheel smashed both wheels, bonnet, sliced open the firewall, smashed the windscreen, missed the drivers feet by about 20cm.

In other words, ensure your PRESSURE PLATE is rated to the suitable RPM.

I'll also add another point, if you want a standard clutch to feel better and have less throw from released to full engaged, get a clutch slave cylinder with a smaller bore diameter. What this means is you need to push the pedal less to achieve full release as less fluid will be required in the slave cylinder to throw out the clutch. This also increases the clutch pedal weight so it proves you dont get anything for free in this world :D

  • 1 month later...
got my clutch done on tuesday;

been taking a bit of getting used to as its fully engaged about an inch of the floor;

liking it though, feels way quicker, perhaps the old clutch was slipping more than i though;

Shouldnt a new clutch not engage until it is nealy out? doesnt it mean the clutch is stuffed if it is engaging an inch off the floor?

  • 1 month later...

Just spoke with Gavin Woods AutoTech and they said they will do the exchange and the clutch is suitable, the reason which they do not like doing them is that the fulcum point is different and therefore takes more stuffing around trying to get it fitted, other than that he said the clutch is fine and suitable!

Sorry meant fulcrum point, now I am far from a mechanic, but I _think_ it has to do something with the pedal and how it pushes/pulls on the clutch or where it meets the pedal or something, but I really do not have a clue, just trying to remember who I spoke to (who has done one of these) tried to explain to a dumbass like me:rofl:

  • 4 months later...
  • 5 months later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...
Hi guys I need the part number for the  heavy Duty Daiken NISSAN PATROL CLUTCH that you guys are using the part number listed in one of the above posts was only for a standard clutch not a HD.

cheers

same here..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • First up, I wouldn't use PID straight up for boost control. There's also other control techniques that can be implemented. And as I said, and you keep missing the point. It's not the ONE thing, it's the wrapping it up together with everything else in the one system that starts to unravel the problem. It's why there are people who can work in a certain field as a generalist, IE a IT person, and then there are specialists. IE, an SQL database specialist. Sure the IT person can build and run a database, and it'll work, however theyll likely never be as good as a specialist.   So, as said, it's not as simple as you're thinking. And yes, there's a limit to the number of everything's in MCUs, and they run out far to freaking fast when you're designing a complex system, which means you have to make compromises. Add to that, you'll have a limited team working on it, so fixing / tweaking some features means some features are a higher priority than others. Add to that, someone might fix a problem around a certain unrelated feature, and that change due to other complexities in the system design, can now cause a new, unforseen bug in something else.   The whole thing is, as said, sometimes split systems can work as good, and if not better. Plus when there's no need to spend $4k on an all in one solution, to meet the needs of a $200 system, maybe don't just spout off things others have said / you've read. There's a lot of misinformation on the internet, including in translated service manuals, and data sheets. Going and doing, so that you know, is better than stating something you read. Stating something that has been read, is about as useful as an engineering graduate, as all they know is what they've read. And trust me, nearly every engineering graduate is useless in the real world. And add to that, if you don't know this stuff, and just have an opinion, maybe accept what people with experience are telling you as information, and don't keep reciting the exact same thing over and over in response.
    • How complicated is PID boost control? To me it really doesn't seem that difficult. I'm not disputing the core assertion (specialization can be better than general purpose solutions), I'm just saying we're 30+ years removed from the days when transistor budgets were in the thousands and we had to hem and haw about whether there's enough ECC DRAM or enough clock cycles or the interrupt handler can respond fast enough to handle another task. I really struggle to see how a Greddy Profec or an HKS EVC7 or whatever else is somehow a far superior solution to what you get in a Haltech Nexus/Elite ECU. I don't see OEMs spending time on dedicated boost control modules in any car I've ever touched. Is there value to separating out a motor controller or engine controller vs an infotainment module? Of course, those are two completely different tasks with highly divergent requirements. The reason why I cite data sheets, service manuals, etc is because as you have clearly suggested I don't know what I'm doing, can't learn how to do anything correctly, and have never actually done anything myself. So when I do offer advice to people I like to use sources that are not just based off of taking my word for it and can be independently verified by others so it's not just my misinterpretation of a primary source.
    • That's awesome, well done! Love all these older Datsun / Nissans so rare now
    • As I said, there's trade offs to jamming EVERYTHING in. Timing, resources etc, being the huge ones. Calling out the factory ECU has nothing to do with it, as it doesn't do any form of fancy boost control. It's all open loop boost control. You mention the Haltech Nexus, that's effectively two separate devices jammed into one box. What you quote about it, is proof for that. So now you've lost flexibility as a product too...   A product designed to do one thing really well, will always beat other products doing multiple things. Also, I wouldn't knock COTS stuff, you'd be surprised how many things are using it, that you're probably totally in love with As for the SpaceX comment that we're working directly with them, it's about the type of stuff we're doing. We're doing design work, and breaking world firsts. If you can't understand that I have real world hands on experience, including in very modern tech, and actually understand this stuff, then to avoid useless debates where you just won't accept fact and experience, from here on, it seems you'd be be happy I (and possibly anyone with knowledge really) not reply to your questions, or input, no matter how much help you could be given to help you, or let you learn. It seems you're happy reading your data sheets, factory service manuals, and only want people to reinforce your thoughts and points of view. 
    • I don't really understand because clearly it's possible. The factory ECU is running on like a 4 MHz 16-bit processor. Modern GDI ECUs have like 200 MHz superscalar cores with floating point units too. The Haltech Nexus has two 240 MHz CPU cores. The Elite 2500 is a single 80 MHz core. Surely 20x the compute means adding some PID boost control logic isn't that complicated. I'm not saying clock speed is everything, but the requirements to add boost control to a port injection 6 cylinder ECU are really not that difficult. More I/O, more interrupt handlers, more working memory, etc isn't that crazy to figure out. SpaceX if anything shows just how far you can get arguably doing things the "wrong" way, ie x86 COTS running C++ on Linux. That is about as far away from the "correct" architecture as it gets for a real time system, but it works anyways. 
×
×
  • Create New...