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Hi all,

i'm new here but i have a very BAD problem and i have no idea what is going on.

My car (and R31 Import) Auto. with an RB20DET

I would drive along and it would just stall for no reason after a small drive.

So off to the mechanic's it went.

Now the car would start but after it warmed up it would just shut down for no real reason and would start again for at least a half hour later (depending on the temp that day)

Now... It won't start at all now.

The fuel pump is fine, The engine cranks when the key is turned.

But there is NO Spark or Injector Pulse what so ever... :O

It's not the Crank Angle Sensor as i was told by my mechanic (they have had it tested and had another one from an rb20det put on the car to be sure of that)

Does anyone have any idea at all what/where the problem might be??????

As i haven't had my car for a month :( and at this stage i won't ever get to drive it if i can't get it to fire up.

Cheers

ash

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Have u done an ECU Diag??

If there is no spark I may be way off but could it be your Ign. Amplifier I think it is called..

It is placed towards the back of your motor and is a black square box where the coils get their power from.

Could be why your car was shutting down when it was getting hot?!?!?

and ECU diag....

is that something i can do myself or send it away???

I'm knew to all this ECU... i'm used to my ZJ Fairlane, it's so easy to fix :O

It is getting sent away on Monday for testing, but if it can be done myself and save some $$$.... it would be good.

Ign... amp??? DEFIANTAELY worth a look.... thankx

keep the idea flowing.....

ash

On my 32 the ecu i think is located on the passenger's foot well to the left.

Undo the screws and slap it in diag mode.?!?!?

There is different ways for different cars maybe you should do a search on SDU or even here then do a couple of posts :O

I'll have to have a squiz at it on monday... the ECU is taken out and stuff.... so i just have to find a switch.

When it is is Daig mode... how do you know what the problem is and how does it tell you... again... my newbie knowledge to ECU's is always handy :lol:

***There is different ways for different cars maybe you should do a search on SDU or even here then do a couple of posts***

SDU? what is that? and i'm not following that bit.

I've had a very dis heartening month

:O

www.skylinesdownunder.com

Skylines Australia's Big Brother I guess...

The ecu will flash a series of flashes to tell you what part of the car is stuffed. i.e hicas or afm or what ever..

Btw you have to know what stands for what.. thats why you have to do a search.. :O

Its possible the igniter module has pooped itself. Its located on the top of the engine, at the back, about 5 cm square.

You could try a simple test - stick it in the freezer for a few minutes to get it really cold, then connect it back up and see if the car will start. Or borrow one from someone else and see if the car wil start and run.

Guest SVD001

Why don't you look at your Air flow meter. I had the same prob in my old R32. Took it to " the best efi bloke in town"......apparently. Anyway...after 2 days they worked out it was a fuel hose.?????? So after I picked it up and the car still stalled and cut out I made some calls to import wreckers and they suggested testing the AFM. They were spot on. Bought one for $150 and away it went. No probs after that. Still might not be your problem but it's the easiest thing to check before diving into you ecu......

I was thinking that too at one stage but 'apperently' it isn't....

Is there a way to test it myself???

sometimes you don't know what to belive from people and what's right and wrong... especially with Mechanic's.

Not that i might be getting done but when you don't really know.......you get the idea

SVD001:

When i was driving it... the tacho went dead... and the ignition stopped right when it cut-out, but it never came on again until i let it sit for a half hour to cool down (or reset a circuit) :confused:

DAMQIK GTS-T:

At this stage the mechanic won't send away the ECU just yet as he NOW has decided that it might be something else electrical (only took 6 weeks so i guess i should be happy :confused: )

If i could drive it i would take it somewhere else. But seeing as it's half way through stuff i'm gonna have to sit with the bannana's and just say my prayers before i go to sleep each night :D

They have only done about a days work on it the whole 6 weeks by my count.

And now the excuse is they are 'ringing around (another 2 weeks)' to try and find a Wiring diagram so the can check different point's for whatever. As if you could find one for a '87 R31 Import... Let alone in English.

Cheers guy's

ash

The tacho is fed from pin 7 of the ECU, if the tacho goes dead it could be any number of things. It wont be the ignitor pack if the tacho drops to zero instantly because the ECU still believes the engine is still running since it will be getting all of the right data back from it, ie from the CAS. It also wont be the air flow meter because, without the air flow meter, the engine will start and idle.

The 12v supply going to the ECU may be cutting out.

The CAS or wiring may be intermittent.

Your ECU may be dying.

The ECU loom plug may have a dirty connector - unscrew it and remove it, then replug it in. Unplug and replug the CAS plug as well. Try wiggling the cables when its running to see if you can get it to die.

Fuel pump may be dying - check by crimping the fuel return line and if you feel the fuel pulses in it then this isnt the problem.

Buy a can of Freeze spray from Jaycar or Dick Smith electronics (MAKE SURE you get the non flammable type), when your engine dies, freeze the crank angle sensor to see if the engine starts up again. Do this with the ECU as well if no response.

Unplug the battery if the above fails, leave it off for 5 mins then plug it back in. If this fixes the problem then your ECU is faulty.

There isnt much else that the problem could be, IF the tacho drops to zero immedately when the engine dies.

BOZZ!!!

THANKX HEAPS!!! :) :) :D

A little more info for you....

The car was dying while it was running, BUT always at the lights so it's kinda hard to tell cause the tacho would die but because the car is at the lights it's hard to tell??

But now... It won't even start anymore (i think i put it in an earlier post :confused: )

The fuel pump come's on (you can hear it), the engine will crank when the key is turned.

But there is no Spark or Injector pulse. when i turn the Key and it's start's cranking.

Does that narrow it down a bit more for anyone ??????

It does have an immobilser... What it is immobilsing... i'll have to check cause bought the car it with.

But when it is ON the car won't crank so that rules out that option as the car is cranking so it's not that.

The CAS has been tested and is ok, and to be 100% i got another Import R31 sensor and put it on mine and still no joy so that is another thing ruled out.

So i'm still knee deep in S**T and can't find my shovel.

:D

and JOEL... at least you know it works.. :D

ALSO... would an R32 wiring loom diagram be pretty miuch similar to an R31's??

And if so, DOES ANYBODY HAVE ONE?

Ash

Thankx BOZZ, you've got some darn good resources/knowledge there!!! :P

Anybody have any of these diagrams (or even more :P ) for an early R32 ECCS RB20det???

That might be even more close to mine so could help me pin it down just that little more.

And DAMQIK GTS-T

It wouldn't wanna be the CAS as it's been tested and i've had a working one on my car too from a guy with an 31 Import the same as mine (lowlux/andrew from the R31skylineclub.com) and my car still didn't start so that would almost SURELY HAVE to rule that out no?

ash

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