Jump to content
SAU Community

Need Help Fitting A Turbotech Boost Controller Onto A R32 Gtst

Sydney GTS
 Share

Recommended Posts

Sydney GTS Rookie

Sydney GTS

Posted
Posted

Hi guys.

I need help installing one of the manual boost controllers onto my r32 gtst.

I cant for the life of me find where to insert it tho i have found plenty opf manuals for the r33, nothing for my 32 can i find.

I really need pics so if anyone has a pic of where they put theirs on their 32 stocky then plz let me know.

Thanks in Advance.

R 2 THE J Rising Star

R 2 THE J

Posted
Posted
woul dlike to know this too :banana:

thanks

I'm pretty sure its the same for a 32 but this is what i did in simplified form.

- Locate solenoid. Take off the top hose and put a bolt in it to block it off and cable tie to secure.

- The hose on the bottom of the solenoid should be connectod to a T piece.

- Remove the T-Piece.

- ur boost controller will replace this.

- As in the pics of Turbotech...follow instructions...bottom barb to turbo..side barb to actuator.

MAKE SURE YOU UNPLUG THE SOLENOID.

Hope this helps!

Sydney GTS Rookie

Sydney GTS

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Searched for like 2 hours and nothing on the rb20's only 25's.

I found the wastegate and there is a line coming from the bottom of it and im guessing this is the line i need to put it on.

I dont think us rb20's have this solenoid and stock t piece so im guessing i have to cut this line and put it in.

If i get a confirmation that its the correct line ill put a pic so others can see for the rb20's

GeeTR Grand Master

GeeTR

Posted
Posted

No offence, but I honestly think, if you cant figure out how to install a bleeder to your import by understanding the dynamics, or find the answer on the interweb, you should be taking it to a mechanic.

  • 3 weeks later...
r32woohoo Rising Star

r32woohoo

Posted
Posted

Come on guys im sure you can be a little more helpful, they're obviously new to this. I had no idea either when i first started, and i didn't bother asking questions like this coz i knew this was exactly the type of answer i would receive.

anyway, 32s don't have a std boost solenoid so don't worry about that

If you can see the turbo it's fairly easy,

theres a hose coming off the turbo housing to the wastegate actuator, cut the hose and plumb the controller into it. you might need to get a longer hose. I cant remember which way it's supposed to face so check your instructions but as far as i remember, the nipple opposite the big screw is supposed to face the wastegate actuator and the other horizontal nipple goes to the turbo housing

sonoramicommando Collaborator

sonoramicommando

Posted
Posted (edited)

r32woohoo is spot on - r32 has a pneumatic wastegate actuator and it alone controls the max. boost pressure & when the wastegate opens.

the controller goes between the wastegate actuator nipple and the turbo compressor housing nipple.

he is also spot on the assessment of some ppl's attitude on this forum - we've gotta start somewhere, we've all started out as a newbie.

it helps if you understand how it all works but i really don't think we need the answers like "if you can't understand/do this, take it to the mechanic". some ppl DIY to save money, others do it to understand and learn. this is not really personal to you GeeTR, just an observation and a suggestion.

cheers

sam

Edited by sonoramicommando
bevo89 Contributor

bevo89

Posted
Posted

cheers guys.

i knew where the hose was and what i had to do, just wasnt sure if the 32 had a solenoid like the 33 does.

but thanks for the feed back. it does clarify things when someone that knows exactly what they are doing (not people like myself that sorta no what to do) pass information on to others so they now know what they are doing

cheers again

drew

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sean'O
      3D printing fun

      By Sean'O · Posted

      Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) clogged cat

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Milkmun
      NC MX5

      By Milkmun · Posted

      Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • Milkmun
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Milkmun · Posted

      255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • Kinkstaah
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...