Rb30-26dett Build

[rb30inside]

Hi all.

I currently have a RB30 bock and looking to build this up with a RB26 head, so i can run twins on there.

Still haven't started anything yet, but just about to get the block checked out to make sure its worth using.

I not going for the forged pistons/rods unless i have too, i.e if the block is worn. Plus i don't want massive power, as i have a RB20DET in my 32, so this build should be more then enough.

So far my shopping list/plans for my build.

-Block-

ACL Bearings

ARP Rod Bolts

N1 Pump

Oil crank coller

-Head-

Standard RB26 head, inlet plenum.

Aftermarket exhaust manifolds.

-Turbos-

Still not sure which ones yet, need to do more homework, but something like the disco potatoes but a little bit bigger.

Already have a Nismo Fuel pump and a RPS Paddle clutch, i will have to replace my gearbox soon as its making for too much noise in all gears, lol, So i will fit a R33 Large casting box.

Am i missing or doing anything wrong for this build?

Cheers

Edited May 18, 2008 by rb30inside

[Adriano]

Sounds good, although IMO instead of spending money on exhaust manifolds that make stuff all difference, i would fit some forged pistons. The arp rod bolts only come in packs of 8 so you need 2 packs. I have a 1/2 pack if you interested.

[infamous_t]

I agree with Adriano on this one, many ppl swear by the standard manifolds with a little work.

I think you need to work out your power goals, you sad you don't want massive power, but your talking disco potatoes x2... single dp turbos make pretty potent power, let alone two of the suckers.

If you end up sticking with the stock manifolds, Id look at the HKS turbo kits like the GTSS, which are bolt and have all fittings,gaskets etc(unlike their Garret counterparts).

[richie$$$rich]

One thing to keep in mind is , how much you want to rev the motor.

I would look into a H/balancer if you want to spin it over 7000rpm.

I had a stock RB30 (new) one on my setup. Once it got over 7500+rpm is was spinning on the the crank.

I went a rolla master one and its hitting 9500rpm all day!!!!

Keep it in mind..

[den001]

One thing to keep in mind is , how much you want to rev the motor.

I would look into a H/balancer if you want to spin it over 7000rpm.

I had a stock RB30 (new) one on my setup. Once it got over 7500+rpm is was spinning on the the crank.

I went a rolla master one and its hitting 9500rpm all day!!!!

Keep it in mind..

9500rpm??? i have spend over 18,000 on my long motor, so are you saying i can rev mine all day to 9500rpm??

spinning on the crank??? mate there is a keyway on the crank... unless you forgot to install it there is no way you would spin the balancer on the crank...

[richie$$$rich]

The Key way wasn't holding on my setup.

Also if you spent 18,000 on a long motor , some one is and has taken you for a ride.

[den001]

The Key way wasn't holding on my setup.

Also if you spent 18,000 on a long motor , some one is and has taken you for a ride.

lol, no1 is taking me for a ride champ, actually ive been taken care of, eg. OS Giken RB30 $22,500

OS Giken RB31 $24,000

thats just for the bottom end, dissasembled. with no oil pump or sump, even though mine is not a os setup, it will produce the same if not more than that, ive used a special block and there is around 4500 bucks in block prep just for the particular one ive used...... so, it adds up easily

also key ways dont fall out as easy as you think, its got nowhere to fall to

Edited May 20, 2008 by den001

[r33_racer]

den001...im jealous you used the diesel 28block....i would love to see pics of the mods needed to make that work with a rb head.

9500rpm...mate sure your tacho aint broke! You must have lots of money to spend, you realise wear and tear increases at a stupid rate the more you rev the thing?

[rb30inside]

Sounds good, although IMO instead of spending money on exhaust manifolds that make stuff all difference, i would fit some forged pistons. The arp rod bolts only come in packs of 8 so you need 2 packs. I have a 1/2 pack if you interested.

I will could be interested in these.

PM me a price.

I agree with Adriano on this one, many ppl swear by the standard manifolds with a little work.

I think you need to work out your power goals, you sad you don't want massive power, but your talking disco potatoes x2... single dp turbos make pretty potent power, let alone two of the suckers.

If you end up sticking with the stock manifolds, Id look at the HKS turbo kits like the GTSS, which are bolt and have all fittings,gaskets etc(unlike their Garret counterparts).

Point taken about the manifolds.

I would like to see 500whp

One thing to keep in mind is , how much you want to rev the motor.

Yeah, i not after a laggy piece of shit, i want low end power so 7000rpm limit is fine for me.

What size of injectors do you recon i should look at? will the nismo fuel pump be fine?

Cheers

[-_-StRyDeR-_-]

put forgies in there if your wanting 500rwhp... do it right the first time

[den001]

diesel engines rock!!! dont be jelous, go buy yourself a block, if i get a chance ill post some pics of the block prep

you can actually turn these to 9000rpm without 2 many dramas.....

[rb30inside]

put forgies in there if your wanting 500rwhp... do it right the first time

I have been thinking about this and i would like to wait till spool imports do there stroker kit before i fit forged internals.

Does anyone have any good info on fitting the right size ALC bearings?

Cheers

[nizmonut]

I have been thinking about this and i would like to wait till spool imports do there stroker kit before i fit forged internals.

Does anyone have any good info on fitting the right size ALC bearings?

Cheers

strip the block and take it to an engine rebuilder who's familiar with the rb head conversions....the reason i say this is so they know that the block they are refacing is going to be under more pressure than it originally was.

like in my case they bored the main bearing tunnel and polished back the crank while balancing it..... used oversize bearings

they bores we're still within factory spec after 350,000 kms but but the pistons looked shagged so they went in favour of forgies. with a regrind down the bores aswell.

this is why ya dont buy ya bearings till the engine rebuilder has told ya what needs doing to it....saves running round town wasting time.

[rb30inside]

Cool i will strip the block and get someone who knows to have a look and do the work needed.

Also guys whats the crack with the oil squirter's, do i need to get them installed.

Cheers

[den001]

for the power level you want to run, you dont need to get oil squiters installed into the block, dont waste your money,

if you really want oil squiters you must run a diesel block, it will be expensive to get to properly modified to incorporate a twin cam head...

[felixy69]

no pic ??????

[den001]

none as yet..

[rb30inside]

Well guys i have been rather lazy since i got the block been down the pub every night!!!!

Anyway. i have decided to go for a big single turbo not the twins. So now the build will be.

RB30 balanced bottom end

RB26 head with 3 angle valve seats

Holset HX40 turbo with external wastegate

Spool rods and CP flattop pistons

ARP bolts and ACL bearings

Standard GTR intake

Ross dampener

N1 oil pump

How does that sound so far?

Now i need help on.

Is it worth getting different cams?

How thick do i need my head gasket to be?

Anything i have forgotten or over kill?

[N1GTR]

Put some high lift 260deg cams in the head and while they're at it get them to port it

Why the change to a single? Ive gone from single to twins and love them

N1 oil pump is ok, dont forget crank collar to suit

Cam gears are a worthwhile addition

N1 water pump

No oil squirters needed

Larger sump is good insurance but not 100% needed with that oil pump

ARP head studs, again, insurance but can be left off if you have a budget

I must've missed it - is this into a GTR or GTST?

Are you building this yourself or getting a workshop to do it?

[rb30inside]

Put some high lift 260deg cams in the head and while they're at it get them to port it

Yeah, im thinking about cams, need to do more homework on them.

Why the change to a single? Ive gone from single to twins and love them

More easy of use and save a bit of money.

N1 oil pump is ok, dont forget crank collar to suit

Yeah, i haven't forgotten about that.

Cam gears are a worthwhile addition

If i change the cams i will.

N1 water pump

Really worth the change??

No oil squirters needed

Yeah i was going to scrimp on these, seem a lot of hassle to get them fitted

Larger sump is good insurance but not 100% needed with that oil pump

Did't think about this. Might give this a miss just to save a bit more money

ARP head studs, again, insurance but can be left off if you have a budget

Don't have a budget, but im not loaded at the same time, just going to buy bits every month till i have everything i need, lol

I must've missed it - is this into a GTR or GTST?

R32 GTST Gun metal grey. I should post some pics some time, lol

Are you building this yourself or getting a workshop to do it?

Im going to do most of it myself, but going to get the right people to build the head so i can just bolt it on.

So how can i find out what size injectors i need?