Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone,

I am new to the forum so if this has been discussed before im sorry for bringing it up again. I just purchased a 98 gtst m-spec, complete stocker and am in the process of picking out new goodies to make her go real quick. ive been trying to find a 3-3.5" turbo back system which is 'loud' as i love the sound the rb's make. If u guys could give me suggestions on such systems it would be much appreciated. i dont mind used systems either that are in good cond. thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219803-loud-turbo-back-exhuast-systems/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

trust power evolution II, 3.75" cat back (with cat replacement pipe) and about as loud as you would want, got one on my r33 gtr

however, i chose it because of its large diameter and eventually when i want more power it will still let the engine breathe. you should probably put some more thought into choosing a system rather than being as loud as you can get

Big Mike

guess it mostly depends on piping mine was a 3.5" it was pointless listening to music if u had the windows down coz you wouldnt hear it LOL it was crazy but yeah other than that titanium or just use a side exit pipe, no cat, nothing... ^_-

Edited by DaGr81

^^^^^^^^^+1 easy fix for a pointless question

if you looking at doing more down the track the spend the money on a bigger then 3" exhaust.... if not 3" is fine for conciderable power... and im not sure how differant it will be in sound at all..... power maybe.... you might loose a bit down low with the 3.75" exhaust... dont quote me on it but im pretty sure.

GO to exhaust shop

Ask for exhaust with no mufflers

loud

Pretty easy.

x2

Cheap, easy and loud.

Thats basically how my exhaust was... 3" all the way through... Just pipe. To a rear muffler. Beleive me the cops loved to pull me over!

screamer pipe...

also see if you can get on ACA and give us all an even worse name

lol! classic.. I just removed my entire exhaust from the dumps, replaced it with a piece of drainpipe from the side of the house and it sounds wicked! Didn't cost to much either!

Edited by Got Boost?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
    • Continental have consistently beaten the absolute shit out of every other performance tyre in Wet/Damp/Cold conditions and give up a little bit of time (half a second at most) in the dry. Almost like it's engineered for German conditions or something. I'd def give those a try.
×
×
  • Create New...