Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

go a blitz nurspec droney plus!!

I got a Nur Spec R on the Rb25. Love the sound once she passes "normal driving conditions".

Annoyingly loud/droney on idle and when your trying to avoid attention.

In basic. Great when you want it. But 90% of the time its a pain in the butt and results in very nervous driving through town.

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

STRAIGHT PIPEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE

nuff said

stay away from hks silent and trust exhausts unless your getting titanium.

they are the pussiest exhausts alive.

Edited by R34NRG
GO to exhaust shop

Ask for exhaust with no mufflers

loud

Pretty easy.

alot of shops actually refuse to make those sort of exhausts.

i rang up quite a few asking for straight pipe designs, they dont wanna make em.....=[

jerkit.gif

maybe its just me but they just sound weak.

Edited by R34NRG
why do you think they won't make a straight pipe exhaust?

proberly because they think ill be back a week later asking them to make another exhaust cuz i got defected for this.

but i dont understand how that is a negative. it means more work for them, which means more money.

and wat happened to cust is always right.

if i want straight pipe. just f*kn give it to me

STRAIGHT PIPEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE

nuff said

stay away from hks silent and trust exhausts unless your getting titanium.

they are the pussiest exhausts alive.

I agree up to the "pussiest exhausts alive" bit.

I run the HKS silent hipower system, it's not an exhaust I would recommend if you want loud++. Good for me though, I wanted an exhaust that would handle a certain power level, and if it was reasonably quiet that was a plus too. I think it's just on the dB limit with my mods.

It does have an awesome note though, great sound, just not stupidly loud.

Why invite more attention from the coppers?! Up to you though.

proberly because they think ill be back a week later asking them to make another exhaust cuz i got defected for this.

but i dont understand how that is a negative. it means more work for them, which means more money.

and wat happened to cust is always right.

if i want straight pipe. just f*kn give it to me

dude if i was that guy at the muffler shop i would do it for the simple reason you'll be back to spend more money on getting legal again

lol, you firstly say to the guy at the muffler shop that you have a race car in the build and this car i have brought here today is the same chassis so you can use it to prefabricate a exhaust system for it.....

secondly, a full straight pipe system will probably cost you the same if not less then modifying your current one.

thirdly, when you do get defected, atleast you can go home and bolt the stocker back on.

considering the average price for mild steel 3 inch 1.5 ml wall is 10$ a meter plus 30$ a bend.

so your looking at 200 dollars max for a whole stright pipe system turbo back....(not including flanges. )

dude if i was that guy at the muffler shop i would do it for the simple reason you'll be back to spend more money on getting legal again

lol, you firstly say to the guy at the muffler shop that you have a race car in the build and this car i have brought here today is the same chassis so you can use it to prefabricate a exhaust system for it.....

secondly, a full straight pipe system will probably cost you the same if not less then modifying your current one.

thirdly, when you do get defected, atleast you can go home and bolt the stocker back on.

considering the average price for mild steel 3 inch 1.5 ml wall is 10$ a meter plus 30$ a bend.

so your looking at 200 dollars max for a whole stright pipe system turbo back....(not including flanges. )

i was sorta along those lines...... :ermm:

bbut he refused to make anything without a designator and a muffler.

and this wasnt just 1 shop.

I agree up to the "pussiest exhausts alive" bit.

I run the HKS silent hipower system, it's not an exhaust I would recommend if you want loud++. Good for me though, I wanted an exhaust that would handle a certain power level, and if it was reasonably quiet that was a plus too. I think it's just on the dB limit with my mods.

It does have an awesome note though, great sound, just not stupidly loud.

Why invite more attention from the coppers?! Up to you though.

Just to put this informtion out there, the HKS Silent high power catbacks for r33's are completly different to the r34 model, the r34 model has a large centre box type muffler, but the r33 model only has a tiny resonator (some people call it a hotdog) hence why the r33 model silent high power is alot louder than the r34 model.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Getting a decent signal from all 6 throats is a challenge. I don't know for sure, but I suspect that the stock balance tube is not ideal for it. I have done it on an ALFA 4 cylinder (about 35 years ago, so don't ask for too many details). We drilled 4x holes in the manifold runners, put in some fittings and ran hoses to a decent sized (I think it was about 20mm diameter) pipe that ran the length of the inlet manifold. So, it was quite a decent volume. There is a "tuning" balance to be found between the volume of the common plenum on such a thing and the diameter of the pipes running from it to the runners. You need the volume to be large enough to damp out the sharp spikes in pressure signal you get as each runner gets sucked on by its cylinder, but not so large that it becomes too slow to respond to actual changes in MAP. And you need the hoses to be small enough to transmit the signal quickly, but not so small that they delay the signal. You might have to have more than one go at it, if there isn't any actual success based wisdom to be had here. Hopefully there is. Anyway, I would not do it on only a couple of cylinders. I would also not care about "permanently modifying a part". Just bloody drill holes and make stuff better. There is nothing sacred about any GTR unless it is a genuine museum piece that you shouldn't be modifying at all anyway.
    • He's still joining you, he's just delayed it and won't have the fulleh sick ITBs...
    • The strange thing is this is a URAS front bumper (or clone of it). The bumper actually does not sit flush with the GTT hood - You need the addon to make the hood 'long' enough to reach the bumper. I have no idea why they didn't incorporate this piece into the bumper itself.. instead of sticking it to the hood instead.
    • Another thought on this OLD topic: When you paint your bonnet lip, leave a small unpainted back lip/line along the back of the lip, where it rests on the bumper. That way, the line in the back is much more prominent than the gaps in the front/under the lip - and it breaks the hood-to-bumper connection at the "correct" place, when comparing to a GTR. I'm gonna do this with mine this week, so stay tuned for pics!
    • So I'm in the final stages of assembling my single turbo RB30/26 and had a question regarding MAP reference points.  I've seen several recommendations such as tapping the cylinder 2/3 ITB, tapping the intake manifold at cylinder 2/3, or using a point on IAC. First two are doable but require permanently modify part and the third is "out" as I plan to delete the IAC.  All that to say my question is can I used the "bleeder" in the center of the ballance tube as a MAP Reference? I'm running a catch can so I don't need it for the PCV system. My thought process is it "pulls" from all 6 cylinder, and it's between the ITB and the cylinders making it ideal for MAP reference according to what I can find. Thoughts?
×
×
  • Create New...