Jump to content
SAU Community

What Do U Guys Think Of These Rims?

DNGRUS

By DNGRUS,
in Exterior & Interior Styling

 Share

Recommended Posts

DNGRUS Veteran

DNGRUS

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ok well heres a pik of my car, so i guess u can base ur judgements on that :laugh:

Luke ENR34 - i love the Rays ones, but i cant afford 5grand right now just for rims with no rubber.

My rims got pinched off my car, I had volk SE37k's, so I am now looking for somthing in my price range (Max $3500 inc Tyres)

MZTRBO3.jpg

Spunky Munky Grand Master

Spunky Munky

Posted
Posted

Ferah, I like your car- however, some recommendations...

I don't think these rims will suit your R34 as there's too much gap between the spokes - you will find that it will make your car look really small and your rims will tend to look a bit out of place. Definitely get black spoke rims, but get something like Work Rims - will suit a R34 perfectly - get copies if you must. Rims is the final piece to the car - I'd rather save up and do it right.

Also, the black OEM r34 bonnet doesn't look nice - I would go carbon fibre with vents (just the subtle ones) and lose thos foglights, then move your rego plate to the side - it will look angry then. Just my 5 cents.

It's looking good - keep up, Ferah!

DNGRUS Veteran

DNGRUS

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Also, the black OEM r34 bonnet doesn't look nice - I would go carbon fibre with vents (just the subtle ones) and lose thos foglights, then move your rego plate to the side - it will look angry then. Just my 5 cents.

My bonnet is full carbon fibre, its not black. Just looks like that in the pik :laugh:

and i dnt wana move my plate into the side as its illegal.

But yeah ur definantly right about the black rims

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo Grand Master

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo

Posted
Posted

and dont go for a cheaper option...

i wanted SSR professor sp1's with black spokes and dish... but they cost the bomb...

so i bought some aussie spec black 5 spoke speedy inferno's... nice, but as they weren't 100% what i was after...

2 months later they were sold and the SSR's were on the car...

could have saved a grand and a half if i had done it right the first time

Yo-Yo Grand Master

Yo-Yo

Posted
Posted (edited)

The black spokes would match your panda style black bonnet and chin spoiler w/white car theme

and the titanium lip would add to that 'wow' factor if you wanna impress some lancer/civic schoolboys.

Just as long as there's a decent amount of dish and a good offset it will come off quite nicely,

I settled for LMGT3's on my r34, actually looks pretty good, don't have the coin for LMGT4's AND tyres :)

Edited by Yo-Yo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Import insurance in 2025

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      The max they would go for me is 50.
    • Duncan
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By Duncan · Posted

      That cannot have been a fun set of drilling. The stock "baffle" looks identical to rb26, I just cut fuel cell foam to fit the full length under the baffle.
    • CRSKmD
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By CRSKmD · Posted

    • GTSBoy
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I understand your sarcastic exasperation. But to be fair - the baffles do indeed fit OEM cam covers. They did omit to say that you need to do a bunch of stuff. But they do fit them.
    • CRSKmD
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By CRSKmD · Posted

      Got started on the modification to make these splash plates fit over the long weekend. First the surprisingly time consuming task of swapping all the cam cap bolts to Tomei cam cap studs. I did the method of removing one bolt at a time, applying loctite to the stud, double nutting to torque as the manual described. Then carefully unlocking the nuts without disrupting the torque of the stud (and going back to re-torque a few times when it slipped). Finally applying the nut and torquing to spec. Repeat x28 Next up I went about removing the stock cam cover baffle so I could ensure it was fully clean after drilling for stud clearance.  As the blind rivets holding the baffle on were domed I used a punch to mark the center then used 4mm drill bit to carefully drill out the rivet without going too far part the baffle. As seen in other thread here is what is inside the stock baffles I decided on M4x6mm bolts to bolt the baffle plate back on with. I used a 3.3mm drill bit with some tape to mark the depth at ~8mm. Next was to tap the threads using a cheap bunnings kit M4x0.7. With the baffle removed I also drilled out the spot welds holding in the baffle plate oil returns. Unsure whether this was the best option or if I should have cut holes in the Hypertune splash plates to allow the oil drains to still function... time will tell. I then removed the the Hypertune splash plates so I could rest the cam cover on top and use a dab of grease to mark where the studs impacted the oem cam cover baffle. The most obvious spot was on the hump from the stock mesh is held. Using this hole as an anchor I bolted the oem baffle plate back into the cam cover and lined up the Hypertune splash plate. Marked the rest of the holes for the studs and drill those out too. Total 32 holes drilled and 12 threads tapped on the passenger side cam cover alone for this bolt on part that totally clears all OEM cam covers.. Drivers side next as well as some E85 safe fuel foam to fill the space behind the behind cam cover baffle plates. oh and some lock nuts for the splash plates of course.
×
×
  • Create New...