Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well after doing a bit of research, it would appear that there is a fair bit of difference between the costs of getting mods engineered - or engineer reports/permits.

In WA, it appears that you can get certificates for your mods when you take a car over the pits, just pay a small extra fee (aout $40?) and presto, a piece of paper with permission to have the mods on your car.

It appears that in NSW it isnt an overly expensive exercise to have these things done??? But not sure what the process is.

In SA, I have made enquiries and it appears that there are only two places in Adeliade that will do engineers reports, and look at minimum of $300 PER MOD, ie thousands to get the car done.

Does anybody have any idea what the regulations on who/where mods can get engineered, and especially, if I say get mods engineered in VIC, NSW, WA, NT, QLD - would these certificates still be valid in SA? or any other state?

If anybody knows of workshops or companies in their home states that will provide these certificates, please post up as well. With if possible price summaries:)

It may save me (and others hopefully) thousands of dollars

Thanks for any replies.

Steve

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21985-getting-mods-engineered/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

not too sure, but here in nsw im bout to get mine done, and its like 400 bucks for all mods, id say it should, www.rta.nsw.gov.au should have registered engineer's so i guess u can only find out for sure from them..

cheers...

www.freewebs.com/2BNVS_r33

i would be interested to know about this in QLD.

I will also ask my mate when he gets online and let you know what he is doing. (His VL is going to a 2 seater, manual to auto, roll cage, so engineering/mod plate required)

Steve, In WA I think your mixing up permits for mods like pod filters exhuast etc., with mods for ADR compliance.

Any major modification will need to be certified by an engineer to insure it complies with the ADR's. Can cost quite alot, as they need to write a report.

Luckily in WA as there are insuffucient Automotive Engineers, so most Mechanical Engineers can also write these reports, and we have one as an SAU member.

Thanks for the replies. I did a bit more research and it appears if, after extensive emissions, acceleration, braking and chassis testing, if all goes well and nothing needs modifying, would get out of it in SA for about 2k

Hopefully, SA vehicle inspectors will allow interstate certification, might be able to get out of things a bit cheaper

Paul,

Here in SA, some of the inspectors will require certificates for anything that isnt OEM. There are only two places that do engineers certification (wich can be required for anything that isnt stock), and the cheapest is the one mentioned above. For example one guy I know of had a Z32 AFM on an R32 - inspector told him he had to remove as it wasnt OEM. A guy I work with has a stock range rover, they tried, but eventually failed, to not pass his car (rego transfer from WA) because the spare wheel on the back obscured the brake light from a particular angle.

The only way to get permits for mods such as intercooler, pod, coilovers etc in SA is to get an engineers report, even then, regency can still refuse to pass the vehicle - they do things a bit different over here. You can even get the vehicle passed by regency, but you wont get permits off them - gotta be an engineers report.

And the worst part is that they wont even tell you if they think the mod will be passed (if you apply in writing on the official application) they just say you need to bring it in after its done. Then if they decide they wont allow it (once again even with engineers cert), you just gotta remove the mod or deregister the vehicle.

They dont make it easy.

I was just hoping to find a way, say if the vehicle could have reports/permits made up interstate, that regency might let it go without the exorbitant expense of full ADR compliance engineers reports.

Something you may find funny too, the engineer that I spoke too said that if the car doesnt meet emissions standards they can always fit an air pump to bring the values into line .... sort of makes a joke of the whole process, but that is an acceptable method, as long as the emissions meet specs.

Steve I thought here if it was ok you didnt need a engineers certificate to pass for things like pods,coolers, coilovers etc. I know plenty who have got through with pods/cooler. You only need a certificate for engine conversions and major mods. But it think it depends on the person.

Originally posted by Clint32

..... But it think it depends on the person.

I do believe that is the bottom line.

In WA you can get permits for mods, so when Mr Plod takes a closer look, you wont end up with a defect notice...basically this is what I want - the confidance to be able to be pulled up and not have to worry about a full regency inspection if I do.

Slip, by the sounds of it, I need to go to queensland:D

can aftermarket computers be mod plated ?

and can we drive around with them ? i have my EMS hand controller in a visible location so i dont want to get bum poked by a copper on a bad day if he see's it.

And who does mod plating in QLD. I got told of www.kcf-rallysport.com.au

they are doin work for a friend. any others?

WA has it sweeter... It cost me $50 odd for the car to be inspected at the pits (coz i got a yellow) then $25 odd for a mod permit... I got a permit for my POD, Vent to atmo BOV, exhaust, radius rods as well as a note on the permit saying that the exhaust and BOV were below acceptable dB levels... :)

The best bet in all cases is to speak with your local registration authority to find out who you should be talking too. There is so much BS bandied around in forums about what is and what is not legal because people dont bother to check with the people that know the rules for the state.

If you are in NSW you should talk to an engineering signatory, the RTA should be able to provide contact details (they have a list on their web site but I think its a bit out of date). If you are in or around Newcastle I can give details of a signatory who I am very happy with (very good with older cars).

Last time I checked a full engineering certificate with everything on the car modded (ie different engine, brakes, seats & mounts, steering, diff, wheels, seatbelts, x-members etc) was going to cost $330 but this was a year ago and there was talk of a price increase due to govt regulations.

Is there any chance of shopping around?

I had some contact with Paul Mullins who built RHR350 (Adelaide based). You could ask who did his engineering.

His contact details are at http://www.hr350.com2.info/

Its a good web page to have a look through as well.

Yeah, WA is quiet lax on most mods, the pits will allow most things no problems. Major mods like roll-cages etc need an engineers certificate.

In WA there planning on providing a rolling car test at Orbital, that will do a full emissions test for about $200. Much better than the $2000 they currently charge:(

yeh Mr Chan! I still have their official banner next to me. "Twice the Rice, Half The Price"

But the place brendan is getting his engineering thru looks alright.

My main concern is to find out if a 3L is legal in my car as it came standard with an RB20det.

Parts of the NSW guidelines....

Examples of minor (owner certified) modifications are:

*engine changes where the capacity increase is less than 15% above the maximum size engine available for the vehicle (providing no major structural modifications are necessary and where noise and/or exhaust emission ADRs apply, all standard equipment such as carburettors, exhaust systems, exhaust gas recirculating valves, oxygen sensors and catalytic convertors relating to noise and emission control are retained and operate correctly);

Engine modification

Original engine modified

Modifications to the original engine are permitted provided the following conditions are met:

*normal engine reconditioning within manufacturer’s limits is permitted;

*modifications must not affect compliance with any emission or noise related ADRs;

*all emission control equipment must be retained and functional;

*if the modifications result in a substantial increase in power, then the adequacy of other components to carry the increased power (brake performance, vehicle controllability and suspension systems etc.) as well as the vehicle’s continued compliance with the applicable ADRs must be considered.

Replacement engine

There are set engine capacity limits for a modified passenger car or passenger car derivative and these are set out in the table below. Owners should note that an engine might not be suitable even though it’s capacity falls within the specified limits. Owners are therefore advised to check details of a proposed engine conversion with an engineering signatory before commencing the work.

(I snipped out the relevant bit)

Mono constructed, 6cyl -

NA = weight(kg) x 4.82,

Turbo = weight(kg) x 4.0

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They do. The pale yellow translucent ones from Japan were .... I dunno. Useless? Whiteline and SuperPro are probably fairly similar. There's bound to be a range of different hardnesses amongst the dozens of options on the market. The simple fact is that the pineapples don't get up inside the bush at all. They just sort of exist in the space between the washer/bracket and the subframe's bush outer tube, and...exert a bit of force between them? Or something like that. I'm sure that with enough provocation, they will simply allow one to more wrt the other.
    • I'm not sure they came in different hardnesses? Going from memory only - I had set them up in the balanced setup. I also have poly bushes, so I have both poly bushes and pineapples. This is what my memory tells me at least. I'll have to take a look under there to be sure. The tramp was so bad that I managed to eject/kill a diff bushing, so those I know are stock. The tramp is bad enough that you are 200% sure you are doing severe damage to the car. It's not just chirping or vibration, it feels like you're hitting a speed hump/kerb 10 times a second. The issue has persisted between subframes! (I went from Hicas to non hicas subframe and replaced every bush a few years ago now) so I'm entirely lost. Every arm is factory.
    • Can recommend the Frenchys kit, been using it 2 years now with no issue, very happy with it.  Only thing for me was upgrading the thermo fan but I am super fussy on cooling.   Also interested in electric AC, partly for boot mount to have a clean bay and partly would love the idea of cooling off the car before i get in. The battery setup to do that might be tricky / expensive though.  Found this an interesting watch.    
    • I put Whiteline pineapples in my old 33, they came in a 6 pack of them, got rid of the axle tramp altogether, cheap, quick and easy install,  they were pretty solid units though...???high durometer???? and NVH was increased a fair bit How hard are the ones you installed?
    • I'd suggest the answer to the first question is at least a qualified "yes". I'll come back to that. Pineapples just don't do a lot to solidify the mounting of the subframe. They do a little bit, and that little bit was clearly helpful to me in the past, but the main thing they are intended to be used for is to tip the orientation of the subframe to try to either dial in more or less anti-squat. You can install them one way to try to increase launch traction, or the other way to try to increase lateral grip (at the notional expense of longitudinal traction). Or, as I did, you install them neutral, which only really offers a little bit of "snugging" up of the subframe. When I did pineapples, that was the only option. No-one had a machined alloy collar like the GKTech ones. There were some other options, but nothing like the slip in collars. And it is clear from looking at them that they occupy almost all the free space inside the rubber bush, so they will do a lot to stop them moving internally. So I thought, "that's the game for me!". Obviously the next/adjacent step is poly bushes, but what's the point in doing that with all the work and hassle required to change them over, when jamming (and I mean literally jamming) some alloy into the rubber bushes probably gives an equivalent, or possibly even superior result? So, to go back to your 1st question, I would suggest, for the investment of <<$100 and a morning spent lying under the car swearing and getting some sore fingers, it is certainly something you should try. Who knows? Maybe your situation is so severe that it doesn't solve it. But it might help a lot. If your problem is as severe as you say it is, the next thing to look at is what the rest of the bushes in the rear end are made from. Things like the Hardrace arms with hardened rubber bushes might be a good thing (for the purposes of having adjustability AND stiffer bushes). Otherwise, just poly bushes throughout could be a help. Or following in my fever dream footsteps and putting a lot of sphericals into the rear? Eliminate undersired movement to avoid the build up of resonances that cause the tramp. Also, if you have adjustable uppers in the rear, and you haven't put effort into adjusting the traction arms to minimise bump steer, there might be some advantage in that. If you don't want to go to the effort of doing it yourself (like I am pretty much forced to in Adelaide, owing to a lack of race alignment specialists) then surely there's a place in Melbs that is able to do it. It will cost $$, But that's life.
×
×
  • Create New...