Jump to content
SAU Community

Building An Rb26 For Response....


Recommended Posts

It's fast.

But super easy to drive. I'm even using it as my daily at the moment even though I actually have a daily car in the WRX. I'm just enjoying driving the GT-R too much to put it away in the garage again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here's my latest dyno graph. Racepace -5's set-up.

If this is what you want then go see Ben. If you want / expect even better results on an RB26 then good luck with that.

Hmmmmm.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I wonder how much of the diference between a resposive HKS 2530 tune is to the "average" tune that people are having done.

How much drivability and mid range torque is being lost because cars are not being tuned properly?

Purely seat of my pants assessment, my R32 GTS4 with its laggy till 4500 rpm GT25BB40 turbo had better low end response from 2000-3500 than the R33 gtr has. The RB26 has a larger stroke and bore, and a little more compression, so it should feel more responsive. Is this response "diference" all in the differential gearing or was it in the tune?

The GTS4 was running around 100 more hp than the GTR currently is too. The main diference is the GTR runs a power fc and was tuned by someone on the goldcoast and the GTS4 ran a wolf and was tuned by me. I wonder if the GTR tune is just a "safe" tune and has its ignition retarded by 2-3 degrees than it could potentially be in the mid range area's, and thats where its loosing that mid range torque.

All too often you read threads about how much HP does it make, but nobody drives everywhere at redline. Thats why Snowman's dyno sheet is so sexy. That mid range torque that makes it a fun streetable car.

I am contemplating doing a before and after dyno run with the current power FC tune, and then with the new Wolf V5 ecu im installing next week. Withing changing anything else. The results arent going to be comparing ecu capabilities... more so i wonder if i will gain more mid range torque because my understanding of MAP based tuning is better than MAF...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well the key indicators would be rwhp at say 3500rpm, 4000 & 4500rpm. Lets be honest if your motor is producing good torque by then.....

Snowies numbers appear to be:

3500 rpm: 125kW (100km/h)

4000rpm: 180kW (114km/h)

4500rpm: 255kW (128km/h)

On the assumption that 114km/h in 4th equals 4000rpm.

Edited by djr81
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rb26 eh?

Response only, no power goal.

Rip off the turbos, increase the compression ratio to 10.8:1 with some RB25DE pistons, lighten the flywheel, fit the 4.35 diffs out of an R32 GTS4 and fit some tube extractors.

Throttle response with the six throttle body induction should be pretty instantaneous.

Well you did ask...........

thats it exactly. theres a guy here in NZ who used a rb30 block, R33 vvt 24 valve head 2.5 liter,

four core radiator, some lumpy cams an after market ecu, larger injectors, fuel reg , and larger fuel pump.

rebuilt the bottom end fly wheel , twin plate clutch , custom drive shaft etc

shoved it in a 1985 toyota hilux of all things.... used to go nutz az, it would spend all day at the track happily going between 2000 and 9000 rpm(wouldnt idle any lower)

it got dyno'd at 295 kw @the rear wheels before it started slipping on the rolling road.

(more than my rb20det was at the time) :thumbsup:

dude used a 1987 vl 5 speed(7 of them before getting a hollenger dog box ) and a ford nine inch diff full custom mounts, even went to the trouble of

shoving the entire R33 interior B pillar forward into the cab of this ute

had the dash retrimed and door cards etc all fitted, moved the hand brake down to the tunnel, installed the entire dash loom along with the ecu and it loom, instrument cluster etc.

including the power window set up lol

it was virtually a rb30 blocked R33 gts in ute form.

actually. from memory i think nissan did build a n/a rb26... it was in a top end gloria early 90's???????? any one care to google it.

Edited by nizmonut
Link to comment
Share on other sites

here we go found the specs on it.

i got the rb26dett version from autech.

Autech Nissan Skyline 26 R32 4

This is a strange one. A non-turbo 4 door Skyline with an RB26DE engine. Yes not a typo. 188 Units were produced all with automatic transmission and all in the same colour (paint code JK0).

Sold for more than twice as much as the GTS-t (Type M) of the time but with less power.

Power: 220ps (164kw) at 6600rpm

Torque: 25.0kg/m (245Nm) at 5200rpm

Bore x stroke: 86x73.7mm

Displacement: 2568cc

Compression ratio: 10.5:1

Front brakes: 4 piston 296mm ventilated rotors

Rear brakes: 2 piston 292mm ventilated rotors

Wheels: 16"

Tyres: Bridgestone Expedia S-01 205/55R16 88v

Dimensions:

Length: 4580mm

Width: 1695mm

Height: 1360mm

Weight: 1480kg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

just finished dynoing the driftcar which was built purely for response. it seems to mirror Snowys exactly :D

3500 rpm: 120 (100km/h)

4000rpm: 185kW (114km/h)

4500rpm: 255kW (128km/h)

post-34927-1211473108_thumb.jpg

post-34927-1211473180_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I took Snowy's advice a while back on the "dash fives".

The dyno below was a "softer tune" (red line) than at present and shows the 2860-5s as compared to GT-RS terbs on an HKS 2.8L built engine (shown as the peakier blue line)

Since this time, we've added more timing and lifted the boost so that now we are at a similar top end around 550 rwhp. Mid range has fattened out of sight. I'll try and get an updated comparison dyno graph of the two setups.

The proof is in the driving, however, and the car is just ballistic on the track with even a shocking driver like me recording more than competitive times on the more open and longer tracks. Full boost is on before 4k and with a redline of 9k you rarely find yourself far away from serious torque.

But as Snowy says, still very easy to drive at partial throttle and plenty of response off boost.

post-705-1211619036_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Shit thats one amazing comparo Gav, really amazing the difference there

Thanks Ash

Twoogle reckons I've "Left the Faith" by dumping the GT-RS terbs, and to be honest I do miss the massive kick in the pants as you come on boost in 5th over the hill at Wanneroo, but through the corners and out of the apexes it's just a whole lot more balanced and tractable.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would love a 2.8....

Yeah without a doubt, power delivery would be brilliant.

Having been in Snowys car, i can imagine the grin you'd get from it :)

It just comes on sooo early with the 2.8!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

well im currently building a tomei 2.8 but im chucking on a garrett to4z... full built im aiming for bout 600hp aka bout 450rwkw.... ive seen em kicking in bout 4g and going all the way to 9g one 25psi making these numbers so im hoping mine will do the same...... by the sounds of it not as repsonsive as u want but not to bad for th power it will make

Edited by skylinekid
Link to comment
Share on other sites

For more than about 550rwhp, I'd be going for the TO4Z. I've seen basically my exact engine specs on the same dyno with with this single and it spooled faster than my pair of GT-RS.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I am currently going this route. I am curious how much horse power you put behind the cut bell housing? Collins was telling me I am going to crack it and bluh bluh bluh. Because I didn’t buy the custom fly wheel from him. I am looking for somewhere around like 500 hp
    • Forgot to mention that these are the before pics when I first got it!
    • Thanks @PranK for the updated member status, much appreciated! 👍🏼 Now, about those pics… Unfortunately I could only find ones that I took in the dark. I was soon to discover that underneath it wasn’t in the best shape, but it was mine and that’s all I cared about at the time 😆
    • Oh, and only having done this task yesterday, I've now driven the car ~60km since, and while it is hard to avoid placebo effect and confirmation bias, I reckon that some annoyances I had with the way the car has been behaving have improved. Which....kinda makes sense, I guess. If the bushes were really stiff and resisting rotation, they would have been contributing to the effective wheel rate. And if it was more so on one side (which it was, because one side was worse than the other) then.... you might imagine that the additional rate would be asymmetric, and potentially even different between compression and rebound. And so... the car has been twitchy at higher speeds - like freeway on ramps. It really shouldn't be. The wheel alignment is good and there are no (other) known problems elsewhere in the suspension. But at 90-100 on a long sweeping ramp, tiny steering wheel motions would make it feel like it wanted to rear steer. Quite nervous. At lower speeds it would heave about in a manner that it didn't use to. Didn't want to put power down, etc etc. Now...seems to behave better. Am going to have to concentrate on the various corners where it has exhibited weirdness, on the rare occasions when I can get a decent run at them without Methanial getting in the way in his D-Max/Ranger/LDV Van/etc.
×
×
  • Create New...