Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HKS laid it on a platter and it's too expensive. Why don't you retrofit it to the cams you have now? Make the whole thing yourself from VQ35 parts if you want to save a buck. It's been done already, it can't be too hard to replicate.

Everyone wants to take the easy way, but don't want to pay the price...

Carbon driveshaft won't do much for how the turbos will respond. You notice the throttle response improve a bit.

You want response, 6262 would be your pick, not a 6266.

Agree, but at the end, either is engine response or turbo response, your but/head will still feel its a bit more responsive than it was :)

To be honest, I'm looking at different turbos option but to quote my supra friend '' damnnn can't believe the cost of a single conversion on your RB is 3x more expensive than on my 2jz'' So, as much as new gen2 billet wheels from Precision or EFR can be good option and yeild better result... for 6-7k, I might as well built a RB28 and keep my -5 ( or have a hta2869 wheel upgrade) and make good power too :P

Edited by cobrAA
  • 3 weeks later...

Where do you live? Just remember that they made the 26 to be a 26. Stick with the 26 and don't worry about stroker kits or 26/30 combos. If you go to a tuner that knows what they are doing you'll make over 1000hp with the 26. I'm sure that is more than enough for what you are chasing for the street.

Where do you live? Just remember that they made the 26 to be a 26. Stick with the 26 and don't worry about stroker kits or 26/30 combos. If you go to a tuner that knows what they are doing you'll make over 1000hp with the 26. I'm sure that is more than enough for what you are chasing for the street.

I bet the response on a 1000hp street car will be fantastic

As in it will be fantastic when it finally responds ;)

Where do you live? Just remember that they made the 26 to be a 26. Stick with the 26 and don't worry about stroker kits or 26/30 combos. If you go to a tuner that knows what they are doing you'll make over 1000hp with the 26. I'm sure that is more than enough for what you are chasing for the street.

That's some strange advice.....

Having said that, check out the clip I posted in the Borg Warner EFR thread - 900hp @ crank RB30 drift car, pretty fun stuff :) RB26 with 1000hp however, not too exciting but not necessarily as bad as some may think these days.

  • 3 weeks later...

I recently changed my T78 for a PT6262(help from SAU) and installed Poncams B because it was not a car you want to have for a DD. It was laggy as hell and with the quad OS clutch was a pig in traffic, especially on hills.( did miss that neck snap when the T78 kicked in at around 5.5Ks up into 9Ks) I can only imagine what a 1000HP machine would feel like, whooow :)

Here are the Dynos , brown PT6262 new tune, it is a different car to drive. The quad clutch is no longer a problem with the extra torque down low, just love it :)

Going to have a custom exhaust system installed as it is bit restrictive, Walbro 460LPH fuel pump and a Haltech Pro R34GTR ECU , the ECU is because my Apexi FC is playing up and nothing to do with trying to get low end power.

After this has been completed and on the Dyno I will post the new chart, hope it is what I am after, a gutsy street car.

post-134126-0-87228200-1399714359_thumb.jpg

post-134126-0-65568500-1399714381_thumb.jpg

Totally different car, early response, smooth power on bends and keeps going. It was good to find out how good they can be and if I want, I can make it even better, well the $ can :)

I never had much of a chance to drive it after the work was done, 3 hours into the trip home the Apexi ECU lost the new Tune, about 45 Klms from home on a bush road, cars eh, haha

Will be interesting to see how much more responsive the new exhaust system makes it, any extra will be great.

With the fuel supply upgraded it can be tuned up as the motor has been worked and the extras added to support the power it is capable of. But I am not after top end power, just early and whatever else comes with the new work.

I think you'll be pleasantly surprised how much better the car will be again once you fit up the new exhaust and fix the fuel system.

Should be able to grab another 70 -100kw out of it too if your keen to wind the boost up :)

  • 1 month later...

What is it with these cars, once you start playing with them it is hard to stop until you get close to what you wanted.

I want more Torque, still do and looking into getting a Nitto 3.2lt Stroker kit,from what I have read I have many of the mods needed to support any extra KW/HP and it will give me the Torque that I am after.

If I do this, did I waste the money I just spent changing to the PT6262 and the Poncams B.

I am still doing my homework, been looking on SAU and got nothing so far but I am sure it is here somewhere??

Well if you're going to all the effort of fitting a stroker, you'll be sorting the head out too. Really, you won't be dicking around with "drop in's". Relieve the head and get some lift up it.

I disagree.

A PT6262 on a 3.2 will drive like a monster in low end, and still produce a good final power figure easily.

Set up a 3.2 with a 9:1 compression ratio. Port you head and keep your B Poncams. You'll be surprised just how good it will perform on low end. If the budget permits the get some more lift like Paul suggests.

The larger you go in displacement, the angrier the cam you can get away with in a street car.

Edited by GTRNUR

I disagree.

A PT6262 on a 3.2 will drive like a monster in low end, and still produce a good final power figure easily.

Set up a 3.2 with a 9:1 compression ratio. Port you head and keep your B Poncams. You'll be surprised just how good it will perform on low end. If the budget permits the get some more lift like Paul suggests.

The larger you go in displacement, the angrier the cam you can get away with in a street car.

This is basically what Jim said because I am after low end response and utilize all of my recent mods and use the existing head, I will ask if he intends to port the head.

He is working towards what I want, response for a tough DD and keep the costs down where he can without jeopardizing the build . One that can be changed if I ever wanted to go for power up top.

I know there are many ways to go with this and I could get some serious HP but I do not really want it up top so I will go with what he has recommended for my requirements.

I will ask about getting some more lift and see what he has to say. We have only spoke about this today and there probably be other suggestions to look at as we tie up the loose ends and get a better idea of the cost involved, that is the scary part,haha

Thank you all for your input

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I hadn't thought about the variable power steering assist. Presumably, it will always be the same level of assist as you get in an S14. The R32/3/4 are either helliishly heavy (at low speeds) if the solenoid is not powered at all, or hellishly too light (at high speed) if it is powered all the time. I presume that it is PWM controlled on those cars. I hadn't thought about the S cars not having variable assist. ugh. What crappy plebby cars they must be!  
    • Hmm yeah that is a good point. It looks like it'll just bolt in with no real issue besides maybe the bushings being different. My other concern was that 2 pin plug that I assume is used in some way to control the rack solenoid depending on the speed signal from the ecu. The DMAX rack doesn't even have that plug though so, don't think it'll matter. Might just order the rack and see how it goes. Will update this when I figure something out
    • I'd say it's a fair bet that the feed and return fluid lines will be in different enough spots that you would need to come up with a way to cut the originals short and adapt with new hard line adaption or braided teflon hoses or somesuch. But really, you have the car, you have the photos of the DMAX rack - you should be able to go out there and see for yourself whether they're in the same or different spots.
    • I've been doing some looking around and honestly was just considering throwing a new rack at it. I saw that the dmax silvia rack bolts up into the 33 with the silvia bushings but not sure if the high pressure lines will sit in the correct spot. I believe other version of the 33 rack are the same/similar to the racks that can be opened up without as much fuss so I assume the dmax rack would fit but any ideas?
    • I've never played with one, but I would expect that you are correct. That slot looks like it is intended to be used to unscrew the end, and the flats on the body would be better than grabbing it around the round bit with a pipe wrench. So, yeah, probably unscrews. You'll probably have to make a tool to drive in that slot.
×
×
  • Create New...