Building An Rb26 For Response....

[Piggaz]

Would you really not stroke a 26 based block because of it?

Some people don't like the "fitment issues" of the 3.0. Cutting bonnet ribbing 32's, strut braces not fitting in 33 and 34's (without bending them), yet want more twist that the 73.7 mm crank offer.

When it wears, refresh it. Part and parcel of owning a built GTR.

[GTRPSI]

All clearances the same?

All piston to bore clearances set to the aftermarket piston manufacturers specs, no abnormal piston rock on TDC or BDC.

Top and bottom of bores looked perfect, around the center the bores looked perfect opposite and beside the marks, a oval 1.5" to 2" width ways and around a 3" top to bottom way thrust mark on the bores on the power push side, pistons around the center of the gudgeon pin almost top to bottom of the shirts with similar witness marks around the same width.

Edit, added....Bore Mark starts off narrow and light, as it gets wider it looks deeper into the cross hatch, as it leaves it narrows and lightens again.

I suggested on the rebuilds to anti friction coat the piston skirts to help cope with the extra side loading in future....somethings got to be better than nothing....

Edited June 20, 2014 by GTRPSI

[GTRPSI]

Would you really not stroke a 26 based block because of it?

Some people don't like the "fitment issues" of the 3.0. Cutting bonnet ribbing 32's, strut braces not fitting in 33 and 34's (without bending them), yet want more twist that the 73.7 mm crank offer.

When it wears, refresh it. Part and parcel of owning a built GTR.

Its a difficult point to argue with for and against arguments.

We are dropping a 26/30 into a 32 GTR, and i agree fitment is going to be a pain in the arse.

Then there is the legality side of it which many people miss, get pulled over with a 26/30 in a GTR and your stuffed, hell of a job and cost to put it all back to standard to keep it registered.....

My personal opinion is if its street registered go for a stroker, just dont push its output, be reasonable in power expectations and it will live a long life.

If your deadly serious about pushing, stuff the legalities, go RB30 and live with the fitment and avoiding legal issues, make sure it only comes out on nights with no moon light ......just my opinion anyway....

[Lithium]

I keep forgetting about how nasty the law is over there In NZ it's a bit more of a no-brainer, but yeah in Oz things are a bit different.

Need more hitech turbos, make up for the lack of displacement with building lots of boost at earlier rpm

[GTSBoy]

If any of us were serious about this we'd all be twin-charging. Total no-brainer once you get past the effort required to fit it all in. Would even make it perfectly acceptable to base any fast car build on an RB20.

[Lithium]

I would love to have a go at that if I had the skills/funds/time - have had plenty of theories on the matter, using either twin turbos or super/turbocharging. A guy I know is doing a sequential setup with his Supra which should be running in a few weeks, unfortunately either it's design is flawed or I have more to learn. I hope it's more than I need to learn, as I'll end up wiser and he'll have successfully built a very responsive 1000hp Supra

Much reading here: http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?720625-Kevin-s-Compound-Sequential-Twin-Turbo-Design

[GTRPSI]

When twin charged i was thinking compound charging, first stage a supercharger, then the turbo.

That ones a nut case.

[Duncan]

Paul I've seen wear in both types of engines I've pulled down....standard 100-200,000klm ones with standard clearances, and also it's pretty obvious in the race engines too (under 10,000klm at rebuild) because you can see it against the cross hatches.

I didn't mean to start a war on this, just point out that there is a reason that OS Giken and for that matter Nissan, didn't just stuff the biggest crank they could fit in a 26 height block.

BTW I have a car with a twin charged engine, and it does have excellent response for it's capacity (0.9l)

[The real NISMO1]

Also this re: Building an RB26 for response going off-topic

I am interested in the intended purpose of building this 3.2 torque monster

Just because have the money to build this I am uncertain if your going to be happy driving it.

I'd try and get a drive in same or similar car first.

Everyone is talking block build what else in the drive train is planned. Also Fuel supply, braking, Engine management etc..

For this sort of build plan I have to quote a line in a FnF movie

"It's not how you stand by your car, it's how you race your car"

I totally agree with you and your FnF quote , BUT I do not give a shit if I stand by it, sit by it, roll along side of it in a wheel chair , I will drive it, not like FnF but real life crap.I love having the power there, the feel, the excitement and the joy of parking your ass in one big ass , kick ass car.

I have had lots of cars starting from a 34 Ford coupe , Fiat,Dodge,Singer,Chevy,Holden,Ford,Toyota,Jag, Porsche,Nissan and more, loved them all, good or bad and pushed some of them further than I drove them. Pushed them all to there limits and did nutty crap in them, smashed a few, but it was all good and still is.

BUT you do not have to be a racing driver to enjoy cars, fast cars, slow cars, whatever.

I have lots of back up mods, OS quad, Nismo 2-way LSD,Walbro 460LPH fuel pump,Haltech Platinum Pro GTR ECU, HKS EVC6 Boost Controller, 3.5inch stainless custom exhaust system,PT6262 B Turbo ,Poncams B , all air, water and oil mods and most things needed to make this work and if something goes POP, I will get what is needed to fix it and make it stronger, just gota luv drivin and survivin

[The real NISMO1]

Imagine if you can lifting the head on your car 38mm, that is the problem with the RB30 block, the high deck setup lifts it 20mm, the BC kit leaves it where it is

BC kit 2.9ltr

RIPs is 3ltrs

Nitto is 3.2ltrs

The BC and type R poncams is the best option for what you want alround, but wait and see what Jim wants to tell you ( 3.2ltr kit as he is part owner of Nitto iirc ) and get a costing for it

Then contact Power Tune and get a costing for the BC kit, by the you will have a price from Rob so you can better decide what to do

Hi Mick

Did not get a second reply back from Rips NZ , but I guess he said it all, get it done in one go and that is what I will do at CRD.

Also had an email talk to Jim and he said, done a few 3.2 Lt builds and no problems. Just glad they have had some practice

He will modify the engine mounts and crossmember to rectify the height issue.

I asked to see some Dyno before and after charts and he will send me something if he can.

So it looks like I get the build done ASAP and looking forward to driving it :)

[Sinista32]

Good to hear. Cheers

Edit: CRD / Jim, Theo etc... built mine also. 4 years, strong as an Ox - no issues (RB26 full of Nitto).

Edited June 20, 2014 by Sinista32

[GTRNUR]

Can't find the 2.9 rod length. I can only assume it would be around the 118.5 to 120 mark depending on pin height.

Ian's is 136.3/90 ( I think it's a 90 mm crank off the top if my head) = 1.514

For what it's worth, after 36,000 km in my stroker the pistons and bores almost brand new. Too much theory, text book reading and not enough STFU and drive it. Refresh the engine at 100,000 kms. That's prob 10 years worth of driving for most people in a GTR. By then most won't even own the car.... Or it's turned a bearing so it needs to be done anyway.

This is all correct!

BC probably run a ring pack closer to the gudgeon, and may use a steel support ring to allow the oil ring to be over the top of the gudgeon hole. It makes it possible to run longer rods/strokes, and still have a thick piston crown. The Nitto/je 89mm pistons in my RB34 use this design. There is pictures in my build thread.

I'm with Paul regarding longevity as well. Really how many people out there run over 400kw and don't expect to do a pull down/inspect at 50,000km. Its worth doing to protect your investment for the sake of maybe $2-3K.

There are just as many advantages for the short rod motor as there are disadvantages. Ie, lower rotating mass, better cylinder filling at all engine speeds. Ive seen the rod ratio debate so many times Ive lost count. From my experience howerver, having originally started out modifying VW engines which have 2:1 rod ratio and being worried about dropping it back to 1.65 on strokers I can honestly say this. Displacement is worth the "percieved" longevity reduction every time.

Having huge power under the pedal only wears out your engine when your using it all the time, so in race applications as Duncan says it can definatly be an issue. However, in a street car it is far less of an issue. Especially when most of your driving in a stroked engine is done below 5000 rpm on the street (while still being quicker than just about everything else on the road).

[The real NISMO1]

Good to hear. Cheers

Edit: CRD / Jim, Theo etc... built mine also. 4 years, strong as an Ox - no issues (RB26 full of Nitto).

As a car bloke I thought you would understand.

Never been a racer but did heaps of east coast runs over the years , great winding roads, not much traffic and when some of the roads were derestricted, those where the days but lucky to get some of the old cars over 80MPH and they did not like corners too much:)

Did you have a stroker installed by Jim

After buying the R34 and driving it home I never expected to be able to get the response I like but I think it will go close with the rebuild.

Maybe my idea of response is nuts but I want the car moving ASAP without having to rev up and drop it, that is great for track and drag but a bad look on the street and only causes problems for us.

By the way I do understand these cars were not really built to be a DD from day one. I just wish I had driven a standard R34GTR before I bought the one I did, I m sure I would have appreciated them more form the getgo but lovin it now

Photos , gotta luvem

Cheers Pete

[Sinista32]

no not stroked.

built for response, with low to mid torque

weaknesses removed, performance improved.

Edited June 20, 2014 by Sinista32

[Super Drager]

I would love to have a go at that if I had the skills/funds/time - have had plenty of theories on the matter, using either twin turbos or super/turbocharging. A guy I know is doing a sequential setup with his Supra which should be running in a few weeks, unfortunately either it's design is flawed or I have more to learn. I hope it's more than I need to learn, as I'll end up wiser and he'll have successfully built a very responsive 1000hp Supra

Much reading here: http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?720625-Kevin-s-Compound-Sequential-Twin-Turbo-Design

I've spoken to him and Kevin jewer(8 sec compound turbo DSM) in regards to idea's for building my own compound setup Very informed guys and have been a big help. Still i'd love to try a compound turbo setup on an RB25, i've managed to find a way to shift the pressure ratios to the large turbo once its on boost so you don't get massive boost pressures but still get the great spool and top end. A Hypergear SS1 as the small turbo and a Super99HTZ as the large would be great fun Kevins 2L DSM was spooling a BW S480 1.32A/R at 4500rpm(45PSI) without nitrous.

[Nismo 3.2ish]

When twin charged i was thinking compound charging, first stage a supercharger, then the turbo.

That ones a nut case.

Now that would be fun to drive, what they can do with small motors is unbelievable. Enjoyed the video

[XKLABA]

When twin charged i was thinking compound charging, first stage a supercharger, then the turbo.

That ones a nut case.

Oh god give me one of them

That's it out goes the shity 26 and in goes a twin charged SR20ve

Pete, so the 3.2 has been decided, what else are you going to change cause that turbo on a 3.2 is going to spool off idle making it a weapon on the street, may choke it a bit up top though depending on rear housing

Another thing to think about is the stock 26 head was never designed to flow 3.2ltr worth of air

[The real NISMO1]

Oh rajab give me one of them

That's it out goes the shity 26 and in goes a twin charged SR20ve

Pete, so the 3.2 has been decided, what else are you going to change cause that turbo on a 3.2 is going to spool off idle making it a weapon on the street, may choke it a bit up top though depending on rear housing

Another thing to think about is the stock 26 head was never designed to flow 3.2ltr worth of air

I loved that video, what a mad little car

I have asked Jim about the head and fitment of the RB30 and he said, no probs with either of them . But we can tidy up all of my concerns once we get the quote and sign off on it.

You have also bought up the next question I have asked, I need to be able to drive it as a DD and would not want it to spool TOO early, you need to be able to pass a gas station now and then

So I will ask them to tune it (if they can) to be able to get around town, I guess if it does not start to spool at 2.5K ish that would do the job and allow you to drive on freeway etc without having the turbo blasting away when you do not want it. My 350GT turbos get going around 3k and this does drive OK in 110 zones, before anyone jumps on me, yes it is a V6 blah blah

The 6262 starts to get involved at 3k ish and at 3.5 it is ready to use and gets going when you want from there. I did a stack of tests yesterday on this and have to be sure of when it will get going with the stroker installed.

So far from what I have read it should be OK

[scotty nm35]

The thread title needs to be changed to 'Building a skyline for response' then I could drop some decent suggestions, like a VQ transplant, seeing you are willing to use a different engine.

I prefer to use the stock block in my builds, just to keep the engine number correct, no matter what's inside it.

[The real NISMO1]

The thread title needs to be changed to 'Building a skyline for response' then I could drop some decent suggestions, like a VQ transplant, seeing you are willing to use a different engine.

I prefer to use the stock block in my builds, just to keep the engine number correct, no matter what's inside it.

The thread title needs to be changed to 'Building a skyline for response' then I could drop some decent suggestions, like a VQ transplant, seeing you are willing to use a different engine.

I prefer to use the stock block in my builds, just to keep the engine number correct, no matter what's inside it.

Haha got the message Thanks