Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Plenty of people recently have heard about Daalder in BoxHill and have headed down there. I met so many people with modded cars down there last weekend. I will be there this weekend.

Basically the system you refer to is the resonator which he claims is his special invention. It tapers in slowly to slightly less than 3" then tapers out again. It is about a foot or so long with stainless steel wool wrapping.

I don't believe it will reduce all exhaust to 90db as the muffler comes into play, but basically if you fit it and epa with them they should pass you... afterall it is their "invention"

If you ever have any probs, go back to them, they are a great bunch of guys. I chatted with them for hours.

Pushead is using their resonator.. he luvs it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21990-daalder-exhaust/#findComment-469019
Share on other sites

Everyone, if you got to Daalder in Box Hill, tell Matt that i sent ya and you're from the Skyline Club (I'm Marcus - i'm the one with the 108dB silver sky). He should look after you in terms of $$.

BTW he is really proud of the silencer - just ask Pushead! :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21990-daalder-exhaust/#findComment-473604
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • These are small points I should actually add to my original post. GKtech makes an extended slave line for this conversion. It's what I use, and it works well. You'll also need a CD009 slave cylinder.  S/R Chassis Z33/Z34 Conversion braided clutch line As for transmission sensors, you'll need to both extend the wiring and replace the connectors. I can't recall which is which, but one is your neutral switch and the other the reverse switch. As they are just switches, just test for continuity with your transmission in neutral or reverse to figure out which is which. Connectors:  VQ35 neutral Switch Connector | Wiring Specialties VQ35 Reverse Switch Connector | Wiring Specialties 
    • I’ll try and see it could be the release bearing. As for the 4th gear grind maybe clutch doesn’t disengage properly cause it is slightly like very slightly hard to go into first could be due to the slab cylinder pin being short uni clutch is a twin plate.   Ive attached some assembly photos hopefully you can open the link and see maybe detect what’s wrong https://share.icloud.com/photos/0dc2YvW__Hl6jl-l2_0jejjpg https://share.icloud.com/photos/09e0jkWOK-vP48c1cfY6u3ViA https://share.icloud.com/photos/0b4rDmh5R7pK7fb1VtND73a3g https://share.icloud.com/photos/05eeUi_6dC4DVi80jOUYDgb0g https://share.icloud.com/photos/06335TgY1XxyIJal_wkdQLhzw
    • Yeah for sure that is peddle adjustment 
    • What are your thoughts on this after having it for a while, worth getting?
    • Downshifts are harder on transmissions than upshifts, the input shaft naturally slows down once disconnected from the engine so the synchros aren't doing all the work. There's no "natural" tendency for an input shaft to increase RPM. Something is not right there, I don't have a great answer on what. You can try a dedicated GL4 75W90, I plan to switch to Motorcraft XT-M5-QS which is supposedly a very good 75W90 for NB Miatas which have a weirdly sensitive transmission from the factory. I would chase down why your clutch is making a hissing noise, that's not normal. It might be no big deal but in the absence of anything else to investigate I would look at that.
×
×
  • Create New...