Very Disappointing Dyno Results, Help!

[10MinuteCar]

these 2 dynos alone cost me $250 now.

WHAT!!?! I bet it was UAS

[Wacky Dee]

guys ... if I had someone who can remap my stock R34 ecu, who can up the boost (to 10.5 - 11 ) and fix up the AFR - would this be a better alternative to getting a safc and boost controller? I mean it'd be cheaper but are there any disadvantages of doing it like that?

[nitestalkr]

guys ... if I had someone who can remap my stock R34 ecu, who can up the boost (to 10.5 - 11 ) and fix up the AFR - would this be a better alternative to getting a safc and boost controller? I mean it'd be cheaper but are there any disadvantages of doing it like that?

Well you will need some sort of boost control to dial a setting in and piss the solenoid off. If you are thinking about a Dr Drift remap, this could be a bleed valve or EBC. Then you can dial in the boost you want.

The remap will sort your R&R issues which you will encounter.

Other thing, so you dont freak out, is that chances are once you dial in 10.5 -> 11 psi it will reach that mid range but will trickle off at top end. Probably losing 2-3 psi.

People seem to have had great success with DrDrift, but keep in mind, you will not be able to turn up to any workshop and have it re-tuned once the time comes as opposed to a Power FC, Microtec etc...

I think thats all.. lol

[wolverine]

WHAT!!?! I bet it was UAS

Why?

it seems Delta has asked for more than just power runs from the respective workshops.

[TTT]

guys ... if I had someone who can remap my stock R34 ecu, who can up the boost (to 10.5 - 11 ) and fix up the AFR - would this be a better alternative to getting a safc and boost controller? I mean it'd be cheaper but are there any disadvantages of doing it like that?

Mate - go to the NSW section of these forums.

see the thread started by sidr20 - "TOSHI REMAP"

in that thread is a link to TOSHI's own little section of the forum/website.

have a chat with him.

just so you understand.

1. SAFC = Super Air Fuel Controller (or computer or something) - it is simply a signal bender.

It sits beween the AFM and the ECU.

the AFM sends a signal to the ECU saying there is x amount of air going past my shaft and the ECU adjust the amount of fuel to suit it's programming.

with the SAFC there, the AFM goes, "hey.. there is x amount of air going past my shaft"

the SAFC goes "no worries habbib.. I'll let the komputa know bro.. I swear to allah bro.."

The SAFC then turns to the ecu and goes "bro.. da afm called and sed dat der is only z amount of air coming in and dat your a fat kunt"

the ecu then gets angry and goes on a diet and reduces the amount of fuel so the mixture is all leaner.

and you get more power.

however, since it only lies about the amount of air, the ecu makes the changes to fuel it needs to get the mixture it is supposed to as programmed.

it doesn't make any changes to timing so you "could" have issues with detonation/pinging.

the expensive PFC or other stand alone ecu's are not signal benders.

they have total control over everything and don't need other devices to lie about stuff.

AN ECU remap/reflash/rechip or whatever you want to call it is a way to re-program the standard ecu.

the standard ecu's program from factory obviously says.

if air = x then add y amount of fuel.

and all is well

then we get our hands on these cars and want to hear that sweat rb sound - large exhaust goes on.

we want hektik spool sound - pod filter goes on.

we want to go faster - boost controller and more boost goes on.

on the factory mapping, it is obviously designed to go mega rich with the extra air that you get from boost etc.

TOSHI and others reprogram this ecu.

they tell it to give this much timing and this much fuel when it receives this much air.

and you get a faster car, more power, less fuel used and still safe.

TOSHI's remap/chip prices are very good.

have a read of that thread and contact him yourself.

forget the SAFC.

it is a dirty dirty liar.

[adam87]

when did you notice the power drop from the timing belt changed? as soon as you picked it up after the change? if you really think it was lots slower id pull the front cover off and check it or have someone check it for you as from what you said they only checked ignition timing and not cam timing. the figure means nothing if you think it lost that much power.

Edited May 21, 2008 by adam87