Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am so angry at them right now!!

Lucky there not in Melbourne otherwise id be there everyday knocking on their door!!

I dont understand how people run businesses when their so lazy and slack!

They NEVER answer their phones!

Only write back to your emails if your inquiring on a product to buy, other words give them more money!

They dnt EVER return my phone messages, so I dnt no why they have an answering machine!!!

And, when they do finally call after trying to reach them for a week, they call to say 'your parts are delayed again, expect another 2 weeks'....well i dnt wana wait another 2 weeks, iv already waited over 2 months!!!!!!!!

..which by the way, of corse it dosnt arrive when they say it will, so im waiting again!

I am so sick of calling them and emailing them! Has anyone else had problems with them? Coz i cant honestly cant belive it

Im never buying anything from them again, their prices are so expensive (whcih i didnt mind coz i was willing to pay for what I wanted) and then on top of that they screw ya over!! Im beggining to accept that maybe ill never get my parts!

..and thats my rant 4 the day!! :P:woot:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220175-power-play-imports-suck/
Share on other sites

Yes I agree with you, I have had some bad experiences with them in the past and I never went back.

So thats one customer gone, which to them is a loss because I have bought so much off them for my old car last year.

I am so angry at them right now!! Im beggining to accept that maybe ill never get my parts!

Well dont be suprised if you dont. I bought an East Bear Carbon fibre bonnet for my R34 last year, and i never recieved it!

I no longer have the car anymore and the bonnet still hasnt arrived. I had no choice but to give up coz they never returned my calls or picked up their phones.

Your story sounds like mine, Good luck, hope you get your parts but I wouldnt be counting on it..

-Brad

woah.. i had pretty quick turn around for some small items i was after last month. And from my experience they were polite and very quick to ship.

But not receiving a bonnet that was paid for last year? That's horrible!

Yeah we had a case of this not long back. Went to the guys house, knocked on the door and he wouldn't even wake up and simply give us the items and go back to sleep. Mind you it was 3pm-4pm on a weekday and we had traveled an hour or more to get there.

On another note... aren't you supposed to NOT mention names of shops/people etc...

my experience with them was great. i bought a second hand r34 bonnet off them, i payed the money up front which cost me just over 300 bucks including postage and i got it in about a week in perfect condition. I was very happy.

sorry to hear about your problems.

I thought they had a very good reputation?

I have seen there website anf the Skylines they got for sale and they seem to be in very good condition. To me they might be a bit pricey, but looks like you paid for what you get...

Only write back to your emails if your inquiring on a product to buy, other words give them more money! I DONT AGREE. EMAIL THEM MIN 4 TIMES ABOUT EAST BEAR KIT IN JAN......STILL NO RESPONSE... BUT INSTEAD I`VE BEEN FOR 3 WEEKS IN TAILAND...LOL

Yeah just to point the fact out that you can't mention the business name when you slander them.. but too late lol

how ever.. if such a business (with ABN) doesn't supply parts when agreed.. ask for a refund.. if you havent got the parts a refund is a must.. if they deny and you still dont get the parts then report the business to the Office of Fair Trading.. fairly simple and they will look into it.. and if there are multiple customers that are getting trouble then anyone can check the rep of a business (as long as complaints are put in)

Ok guys, thats enough.

Thread closed.

IMO Powerplay have always been a good business, and as for returning the calls, i have always been called back after leaving a message :geek:

Anyone starts another thread like this/about them etc expect a weeks holiday and a reminder to read the forum rules

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Add to this... What blew the fuse too? If a circuit feeding power to the coils was blown, how were the coils even functioning to let the car start?   There is some seriously wrong wiring in that car for certain, and I'm betting there is some melted cables somewhere, but I can't explain the 30v either, unless there is something back feeding on that power line that has a dodgy power system and the electronics are giving it hell.
    • This is typically the case with such threads. What I cannot quite get my head around is where a reading above 12V (or 13.8 or 14.x or whatever the maximum achievable voltage might actually be in that specific car) comes from. 25V or 30V should be completely impossible. There's no way to create it. Hard to answer that question. It will literally depend on whether the current tune relies on the values as set. I'd guess it probably does. ie, the real base pressure being 49 means that the flowrate through the injectors will be higher than if it was 43.5. The Haltech's modelling should be handling that, but because it thinks the pressure is only 43.5, then..... I dunno. It should be thinking that it will be injecting less fuel with each pulse duration than is actually happening. So, something is definitely not-as-it-should-be, but specifically what that is is beyond my abilities to imagine. Someone like Dose who spends more time with Haltechs might have a better thought.
    • Bit of a late reply here as me and my wife have been really busy with new born twins. I finally got these issues fixed and it was something really stupid that caused all of this 🤦‍♂️... After alot of mucking around with trying to figure out what is causing these issues, I back probed one of the R35 coils on the power 12v supply, with the engine running it got 25v! And I thought, hang on..., this isn't normal. Measured my battery with the engine running to check for over charge from the alternator and it wasn't that. So then I dissconnected the R35 PRP coil harness and backprobed the power supply on the engine loom where the ignition coil harness connects, with the key on ignition (engine off) it measured 30v! So then I had to trace where that high voltage was coming from and it lead me to the brown relay "ECM & IGN coil relay" inside the cabin next to the ECU on the passanger wall. This relay feeds power to the ECM and ignition coils. Tried swapping it with another same relay. nah still 30v.. coming from the 2 green/white wires in the brown relay. So then I set my multi meter to the beep continuity mode and probed every fuse on the fuse box inside the cabin to try and find this high voltage power source. Wasn't any of the fuses inside the cabin. Then probed all the fuses in the engine bay and BAM, got my power source that was a 10AMP fuse called "ENG CONT". Pulled the fuse out, and what do you know... it was blown. 🤦‍♂️  So then I quickly replaced it with a new 10AMP fuse, started the car and yeah haha [insert extreme face palm]... The RPM blimping thing went away, car idles smoothly now like what it was before. I swear! I checked all my fuses with my test light twice before I created this forum thread. I think, maybe because one side of that faulty 10A fuse lit up on my test light, I must have thought it was still ok and not blown. But now I know to have both sides light up on the test light when checking fuses... I hate diagnosing electricals.... I'd take mechanical problems over electrical problems any day🤣. Drove the car around my suburb with the engine up to operating temp and it runs fine like before. However, I notice that my fuel pressure is still at 49psi. So I'm thinking this must be normal for my system as I've upgraded the stock fuel pump to a Walbro 255L/h with a constant 12v mod.  But anyway, I'm just glad to have my daily back on the road! Thanks everyone for the replies on this thread, all sorted now! One thing I want to ask you tuner guys, my base fuel pressure on the haltech main settings are set to 43.5psi from default (my tuner must have not checked the fuel pressure maybe when tuning my car?). Do I set it to what it actually is idling on at 49psi? Or just leave it ("if it aint broke, don't fix it/leave it")?  
    • The max they would go for me is 50.
    • That cannot have been a fun set of drilling. The stock "baffle" looks identical to rb26, I just cut fuel cell foam to fit the full length under the baffle.
×
×
  • Create New...