Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all

about a week ago my original water pump started leaking from the drainer hole thingy.

so i went off to the wreckers and bought a new one.

after the fkn hassel of taking off timing belt, harmonic balancer (took agesss to find the right HB puley remover) and all other other crap i finally changed the water pump...

put my new alim rad in, flushed the engine for 20 mins and all the rest of it, topped the coolant then SAME THING STARTED leaking!!

again, from the drainer hole.

my question is, was it just realllly bad luck to get a dogey water pump or is there something wrong?

if it is a dogey water pump, im definately going to buy a brand new one (if i knew it was going to be that much of a headache taking all that crap off i would have done it in the first place).

any help would be much appreciated!

thanks in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220291-second-water-pump-failier/
Share on other sites

yeah sorry it was a second hand pump. its leaking from the drainer hole from the bottom of the pump (exact same place the old one was leaking from)

keep in mind it started leaking the day i installed it, didnt even get to drive the car :)

should i invest an extra $30 in a n1 pump, or will the 50mm aluminum rad be enough to keep the temps down?

ohh true abu, i should just weld a 0.5mm tin sheet over where the pump should go yeah?

oh also i got aria forgies for my 13bt

:(

ah you wouldn't be in all this mess if you had a 20 like a true r32 owner

arias forgies suck, I went all out CP forgies with spool rods, extensive head work and solid lifters in my old 13BT

ah you wouldn't be in all this mess if you had a 20 like a true r32 owner

arias forgies suck, I went all out CP forgies with spool rods, extensive head work and solid lifters in my old 13BT

you should invest in some procrams and cams gears for that rotor! really get that thing revving! :D

Unless you have a problem with them, I work at repco, I put a brand new GMB water pump for a RB30 on my 26 and its fine. Handles anything I can throw at it. I run stock rad, 16 PSI and it runs cooler then the stock pump did.

It cost me very little. What it costs the public I dont know, shouldnt be too much. If it was over 150 bucks id be very surprised.

question, if a mechanic works on ur car after they have been supplied with a part from a wrecker, and that part is faulty and the mechanic charges me extra for fitting/removing/fitting a new part, can i forward that invoice to the wrecker?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well some mostly good news and some slight bad news.  Good news is cylinder 6 did in fact only require a honing and I'm good to run my 86.5mm pistons again. I should also get the block back by end of week. Bad news, had a few surprises pop up. First, main and rod bearings were trashed. No sign of any heat damage. I knew right away what caused this... I had not packed my oil pump originally and spent a lot more time than I would have liked cranking the motor to get oil pressure. It sounded fine once started so I chucked it up to luck and forgot about it. Luckily rod and crank are fine and just need new bearings. Engine builder agreed that this was the cause.    Another surprise that carbon covered up very well that I didn't catch, something got sucked up and went through cylinder 1, 2 and 3. Luckily this was no cause for concern, just needed a bit of cleaning up. Valves look fine but he will vacuum test the head this week to confirm. I'm presuming this was something left over from welding my intercooler piping, but we'll never know. I'm going to thoroughly reclean everything.    So all in all, happy the motor is fine, and I'll get it back much sooner than expected. I'll also be taking the time to convert my WMI system over to direct port. I'll snap some pictures of that when the parts come in. 
    • I understand, thanks. Yeah I wouldn't want the car to tip over, I'll try and use the sills, I don't want to risk smashing the chassis rails. I ordered some rubber pucks that have a hopefully big enough slotting. If the front right gives me trouble I can always just make a wood block. I'll measure and inspect the sills closer once I actually take the car up. I hope so, but the rubber blocks I had in hand so far were pretty damn firm, if they are that hard they won't give much way. I'll let you know what happens. Angle grinding rubber isn't one of my favorite tasks. I'll probably start a build thread soon, for my own documentation and "log" as well as sharing what's going on with the car.
    • Kinda something I have been thinking about.  To be honest, we bought it already driving like that.  So there's no telling how long it actually has been driving like this.  Hopefully damage is too bad when we drop the pan.   I am having a hard time finding a site that sells the solenoid for the 5 speed auto, do you have any suggestions?
    • That'll be most likely down the road...  LOL  
    • a stock / option or aftermarket?
×
×
  • Create New...