Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all

about a week ago my original water pump started leaking from the drainer hole thingy.

so i went off to the wreckers and bought a new one.

after the fkn hassel of taking off timing belt, harmonic balancer (took agesss to find the right HB puley remover) and all other other crap i finally changed the water pump...

put my new alim rad in, flushed the engine for 20 mins and all the rest of it, topped the coolant then SAME THING STARTED leaking!!

again, from the drainer hole.

my question is, was it just realllly bad luck to get a dogey water pump or is there something wrong?

if it is a dogey water pump, im definately going to buy a brand new one (if i knew it was going to be that much of a headache taking all that crap off i would have done it in the first place).

any help would be much appreciated!

thanks in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220291-second-water-pump-failier/
Share on other sites

yeah sorry it was a second hand pump. its leaking from the drainer hole from the bottom of the pump (exact same place the old one was leaking from)

keep in mind it started leaking the day i installed it, didnt even get to drive the car :)

should i invest an extra $30 in a n1 pump, or will the 50mm aluminum rad be enough to keep the temps down?

ohh true abu, i should just weld a 0.5mm tin sheet over where the pump should go yeah?

oh also i got aria forgies for my 13bt

:(

ah you wouldn't be in all this mess if you had a 20 like a true r32 owner

arias forgies suck, I went all out CP forgies with spool rods, extensive head work and solid lifters in my old 13BT

ah you wouldn't be in all this mess if you had a 20 like a true r32 owner

arias forgies suck, I went all out CP forgies with spool rods, extensive head work and solid lifters in my old 13BT

you should invest in some procrams and cams gears for that rotor! really get that thing revving! :D

Unless you have a problem with them, I work at repco, I put a brand new GMB water pump for a RB30 on my 26 and its fine. Handles anything I can throw at it. I run stock rad, 16 PSI and it runs cooler then the stock pump did.

It cost me very little. What it costs the public I dont know, shouldnt be too much. If it was over 150 bucks id be very surprised.

question, if a mechanic works on ur car after they have been supplied with a part from a wrecker, and that part is faulty and the mechanic charges me extra for fitting/removing/fitting a new part, can i forward that invoice to the wrecker?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had never actually looked into it, but aren't onboard compressors a thing in trucks?
    • Read the ECU for fault codes or have someone else do it. A faulty coolant temperature sender is usually listed in ECUs. If the sensor itself is not busted it can also be a bad ground connection. Or in a really unlucky case, damaged wiring.
    • Can't be a Futjitsubo as those are made with a flex piece and Reimax is smaller in pipe diameter. If anything it is closest to a Mines pipe, but evidently it is not an actual Mines pipe.   Classic word humor
    • Alright I will try to not forget.   As GTSboy replied to you already, problem is mainly the mismatch between the actual exhaust part and the denomination in the papers. That basically just looks like tampering to a cop, if they were to check your car and notice. If it had been done right they would have clarified it to be a custom pipe and just given it a certain part number that you have to engrave or weld onto the pipe. I will definitely inquire on what to do. Changing the pipe wouldn't be my favorite solution as it costs a bunch of money and the cat was fitted with the front pipe and exhaust under the car, and if the front pipe flange does not sit in the OEM location the cat will need to be refit for any other pipe to work. It also usually doesn't need a brand name or something like that, but more something like a part number. Usually for exhaust parts, on silencers and cat units specifically, there is a badge that reads the certificate number that belongs to these exhaust parts under EU regulation. You get these numbers after you put a part or group of parts through the tedious testing according to EU vehicle legislation and they pass. You can find these "part numbers" on various parts throughout a EU vehicle. On windows, headlights, engine parts, seat belts and so on. All these parts have gone through standardized testing and acquired a so called ECE or EG Certificate that makes them legal to use by themselves in all countries that adhere to these standards. You can also not alter these parts in any way, if you do they become illegal. An example for stampings on an exterior lighting part, the people who need to know can find the documentation for this unit in a database. I do not know what all the standards and so on mean.
    • If that was the case I suppose you could call it "Mein's" brand....  ... I'll see myself out... 😅
×
×
  • Create New...