Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys anyone know where i could find 1 Blue "GT" Badge (NA Skyline) and the "S" badge for the hood. Some a**h**** debadged my car today =(, just makes me think why in the world would they wanna do such a thing! I assume wreckers and Nissan would sell them (but for a higher price). How much do they roughly go for anyone know?

Any help would be much appreciated =)

Alex

Edited by Alex G
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220426-debadged/
Share on other sites

Never mind i searched a bit more and found my answer :D

Here's for anyone else if they need it

Jap Parts Plus W.A.

5-7 Jade Street

Maddington WA 6109

Tel: (08) 9493 2191

Fax: (08) 9493 1411

http://www.jappartswa.com.au/

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220426-debadged/#findComment-3887401
Share on other sites

Yeh I have the same problem, somebody depadged my red/white GT badge... Sad sad world! I found that just jap sold some, but at 50 bucks a badge... I also went to a panel beater to see how much it would cost to fill in the holes and repaint it... 900 bucks! Goes to show a new badge isnt that expensive afterall...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220426-debadged/#findComment-3887734
Share on other sites

A-Spec in the city sell a few badges. quality is 'meh' though.

cheers for the info! :P

i checked their website out and they had none on there but ill go there soon myself to go and see if they got them.

what you mean by 'meh'? they arent genuine ones or......?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220426-debadged/#findComment-3887877
Share on other sites

Yeh I have the same problem, somebody depadged my red/white GT badge... Sad sad world! I found that just jap sold some, but at 50 bucks a badge... I also went to a panel beater to see how much it would cost to fill in the holes and repaint it... 900 bucks! Goes to show a new badge isnt that expensive afterall...

damn! $900! you could get heaps of badges for that! :D

but in a way it might be better having no/nearly no badges on your car so people stop friggin stealing them but then with that they will aim to steal something else... :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220426-debadged/#findComment-3887886
Share on other sites

cheers for the info! :P

i checked their website out and they had none on there but ill go there soon myself to go and see if they got them.

what you mean by 'meh'? they arent genuine ones or......?

Well he has a bunch in a cabinet so I havn't held them to see if they are plastic with some silver coating or metal, for example.

It's in Carillon City same corridor thingo as Boost Juice. Frankee is a champ though he won't rip you off. Nice little one stop shop if your not into branded products, but I am so it's not my thing lol.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220426-debadged/#findComment-3887981
Share on other sites

Get the red ones. They look better. I have them on my car, they look much better then the blue ones. I didnt put them on, so you cant blame me :P And I dont think its the same as putting GT-R badges on it... Altho... Replace them with GT-R badges? :D

blues are for NA and reds are for turbo just in case u din know :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220426-debadged/#findComment-3888005
Share on other sites

Yeh I know that Bernard, but mine came with the red ones when I bought it, and I think they look much better then the blue ones. I'm not hiding the fact that its NA, there are other things that give it away: The 4-stud rims, the lack of forced induction, the fact that i lose EVERY race... :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220426-debadged/#findComment-3890065
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...