Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 96
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Cheers Rich!

hahah yeah, I sence a failboat photo being posted because I failed at rotating lol hahaha

p.s. I still wanna drive the silvia!

yeah mate, you're welcome to anytime, but I think your beast may be faster than the silvia now! you might be dissapointed with my girly 230rkw next to your far more manly 260... but I guess the little silvia does have a weight advantage.

though thomas drove the silvia yesterday and it certainly put a smile on his dial.

Chubbs, someone said before that the reason you're loosing up the top end would be cause of wastegate (doubt that as it's brand new) or the Bov... the standard GTR Bovs are a great little upgrade for our cars and can hold a bit more pressure before releasing any air... and, although it's heresay and some say it's a straight out lie, our bovs are designed to leak just a little bit as standard... some say for smoother gear changes, I say I have no idea why :P

Might be worth looking into though :)

Man, your car just keeps getting better and better!

Cheers Doof!

Although Im not reallly fused at the moment about the boost dropping off - its just awesome to drive even on 14psi!

GTST - kit is everything - turbo, lines, bolts, studs, jap instructions lol

prices range from around 2.6k to 3k but I wont say what I paid lol

Oh, I even saw them advertised on a performance website for 3.5k!!

ouch...

If the gate came with the turbo (btw how much did the kit cost?) then I doubt its the wastegate as its designed for it.

It has to be the bov, get a greddy plumb back then you can adjust how much presure to hold much better option than any gtr bov as its a 10pound spring which youd require a little more. second hand same damn price.

Yavuz should know. You can test the bov by blocking it off with a piece of aluminium but it could just be the boost controller not set up right or not enough preload on the wastegate actuator.

Anyways, regardless, you wont care for a couple of months at least. :P:(:)

Evil, The bleed off of boost is prob either due to wastegate (which I assume is external, so shouldnt be) or your BOV which is venting early. GTST ones does, if its aftermarket tighten up the spring and ull prob be right..

Gain would be controlling boost spike and it would be causing the car to jump from 12 to 14 .. you know the deal with spikes...

Hope that helps

no wrong.. you need to understand the mechanics of how it works and you will realise this is just because its a boost conrol issue. and nothing more.

wasnt aware that a "gtrs bolt on" evan had an option for a external waste gate :P

If the gate came with the turbo (btw how much did the kit cost?) then I doubt its the wastegate as its designed for it.

It has to be the bov, get a greddy plumb back then you can adjust how much presure to hold much better option than any gtr bov as its a 10pound spring which youd require a little more. second hand same damn price.

no wrong again.. dude learn how shit works THEN make a input on the issue.

this ones free :) a bov has a spring yes? it has one chamber with said spring pushing the valve closed with the engine not running.....

it has a chamber with a diaphram generaly twice the surface area of the valve its self..that is conected to the inlet manifold via a hose.. soooo that when the engine is running the chamber has manifold vacume acting on it..

and when its on boost it has boost acting on it.

so whatever your engine is doing the bov has either boost or vacume controling it. now.. when an engine is on boost, it has BOOST and THE SPRING keeping the valve shut.

ie: regardless of what boost you have the bov has BOOST and THE SPRING acting on the valve.... generaly at a 2/1 ratio. so with 10 psi on the valve diaphram it will require 20 pound to overcome the valve.. and thats without the spring!! so unless you have 30 pound boost in the piping and 10 in the manifold it wont leak.

the spring adjustment is there SOLELY TO ALLOW THE VALVE TO BE CRACKED OFF ITS SEAT AT IDLE. to avoid "flutter" and "reversion" on airflow meter equiped engines.

i use gtr bov on my engine. the bleed of at 12 pound, with no vac line attached. and with it ive no problems sealing 28 pound.....

chris your problem can be 2 things, most common is the actual setting on the boost controler. (if its electronic)

or the turbo is running out of puff. by looking at the graph id say is more the setting but could be the turbo reaching its limmit.

cheers :D

:thumbsup:

give him a break... he doesn't own a line anyhoo... :blush:

poor guy is driving zeddles these days... although I have spied his head being worked on atm :cool:

Sooooo Chris, back on topic.... how much more fuel are you going through seeing you are prolly spooling your turbo all the time atm!!! hehehe

I chewed through the first 2 tanks so fast just cause I wanted to hear the "whistle" all the time :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @DraftySquash @Duncan he's not talking about the part that sits against the radiator support, he’s talking about the lip that sits towards the front outside of the car. anyway I had a look at other cooling panels and came across this one https://justjap.com/products/carbing-radiator-cooling-panel-plate-nissan-skyline-r34-gt-t?variant=37829684134087&currency=AUD&utm_source=google&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=Advanced feed&utm_content=Carbing Radiator Cooling Panel Plate fits Nissan Skyline R34 GT-T (Coupe)&srsltid=AfmBOoonzPDKqe9NgKi5U0AkFc2XvbXETGmNWvfNcyBT5DUZagMYHg9DZ70 if you take notice it’s the same shape.  well thankfully the justjap listing has a description and it says : - Nissan Skyline R34 GT-T Coupe (M/T -07/2000) this means it’s specifically for a s2. S2’s have different front bars to s1 so that lip with the 3 holes are *probably* mounting points for the s2 bar. im not 100% sure but im almost certain it will still fit a s1 bar       
    • Everyone is too used to learning from places like HPA "how to tune" and what to expect at what point, rather than being able to see "The computer says I'm in cell with Row = 8, column =4, and I can see my fuel is lean, so lets add more" Everyone wants "real units", which helps for someone picking it up for the first time and seeing how bad the tune is if they're not used to touching it.   However, I think for most of us who want to play with it, you're 100% right, we're only needing to learn about it for OUR CAR. Which makes it great, and we don't need to care what the real values are, we just need to know which cell it is, that's causing the lean or rich point, or that we want more ignition timing or less. But again, everyone wants everything super you beaut and nearly self tuning, with VE maps, and a billion compensations...   Though then there's me over here when I'm doing reverse engineering work just reading data in hex format that most people couldn't work anything out from. Yet I can see what's going on.
×
×
  • Create New...