Upgrading Ecu And Injectors

[R31Nismoid]

Stock means - stock.

Not tuned, not mapped, nothing. As Nissan created it.

As per first post, with the blanks filled in

Stage 1

Expected power figure - 250rwkw

Stage 2

Expected power figure - 250rwkw (but with better economy and other things associated with a proper tune like better power delivery better midrange by a bit etc.)

As i said clearly twice now, peak power will not change dramatically. You can make 250rwkw on the factory standard, unchipped nissan ECU.

So in reference to the question in the very first post about a large power increase, simply put there probably wont be much if at all.

[msuen]

hey nis, i have never heard of anyone achiveing 250 rwkw on stage 1 without computer . I thought it was more like 210 awkw. Unless 210awkw is 250 rwkw ?most people with exhuast and boost only achives 210awkw or thereabouts . I agree with -

pm-r33

Current Specs:

R33 GTR 1996

Stock Turbos running @ 1bar

Apexi POD Filters

Apexi Front Pipes

HKS High Power Exhuast

Havent had it dyno tuned yet so not sure what power figure but i would have though at least 200awkw yeah?

Expected Power Figure:? If the engine is healthy i would say around 210kw with these mods

mike

[GeeTR]

Trust me when i say there is no information on how to repair you injectors on here...

...Only problem is when i pull out the injectors i have no idea how to open em up to replace all the seals?

You haven't found info about "opening injectors" because afaik, they are a NON serviceable part. You might of found this post about gluing them. The seals spoken about here are simply at the interface between rail <-> injector and injector <-> plenum, and will come off when you remove the injector.

One thing i disagree with you on though is that the stock GTR turbos are struggling on 1bar, i have read on many different forums that 1bar is a safe and reliable boost level to run the stock ceramic turbos with.

Disagree away, check the engine failure thread, MANY go bang 1bar Your millage may vary.

hey nis, i have never heard of anyone achiveing 250 rwkw on stage 1 without computer . I thought it was more like 210 awkw. Unless 210awkw is 250 rwkw ?most people with exhuast and boost only achives 210awkw or thereabouts

....

Havent had it dyno tuned yet so not sure what power figure but i would have though at least 200awkw yeah?

Expected Power Figure:? If the engine is healthy i would say around 210kw with these mods

Stg1 GT5 ftw Everyone has their experiences. Iv seen 3 BNR32's inda'flesh with catbacks make 205-220rwkw .64bar. This R33 with dumps, 1bar and a tune should "on paper" make more.

I think ppl's are forgetting dyno to dyno figure can change 20kw or more in non shootout mode... let alone DIFFERENT branded dyno's or different country's... tune it, be happy.

Edited May 25, 2008 by GeeTR

[R33-RB26DETT]

You haven't found info about "opening injectors" because afaik, they are a NON serviceable part. You might of found this post about gluing them. The seals spoken about here are simply at the interface between rail <-> injector and injector <-> plenum, and will come off when you remove the injector.

Disagree away, check the engine failure thread, MANY go bang 1bar Your millage may vary.

Out of curiosity how would the engine go bang? wouldnt you just break the turbine wheel? Excuse my ignorance.

also i was under the impression that once you remove the boost restrictor this makes the car run at 1bar, the guy before me had done this and when i did a comp test he said that all cylenders were perfect. so it just seems strange that the engine could fail thats all..?

Edited May 25, 2008 by GTR-PWR

[GeeTR]

Lots of forum trawling you have in front of you, young jedi.

Heat seems to be the factor that makes the glue that keeps the ceramic wheel on the steel shaft - fail. 1bar could be ok if you hit it every now and then on the street, but fail after your 3rd lap at a track where you see much more WOT with less cool down time.

I personally believe the brass boost restricting olive isnt there for so your cousin can recommend a quick boost up, but more to smoothen out boost control.

Its personal risk mitigation, if you can risk it, do it. If you dont like the remote possibilty of having to spend 5k on an engine rebuild, don't do it.

As for boom, when the wheel falls over at 150,000 rpm, it can spew chunks and evil "ceramic dust" This can be sucked back into the motor causing MASSIVE abrasion wear between ring and bore.

Let your search button do the walking for more info and experiences.

[PM-R33]

Stock means - stock.

Not tuned, not mapped, nothing. As Nissan created it.

As per first post, with the blanks filled in

Stage 1

Expected power figure - 250rwkw

Stage 2

Expected power figure - 250rwkw (but with better economy and other things associated with a proper tune like better power delivery better midrange by a bit etc.)

As i said clearly twice now, peak power will not change dramatically. You can make 250rwkw on the factory standard, unchipped nissan ECU.

So in reference to the question in the very first post about a large power increase, simply put there probably wont be much if at all.

Hmm interesting, i wonder if you guys do something different down there I've never seen a RB26 push out that much power with just an exhaust system/boost increase, filters etc without some sort of tune or aftermarket engine management system. Then again you get a lot colder weather down there.....but still, a bit strange.

[R33-RB26DETT]

Lots of forum trawling you have in front of you, young jedi.

Heat seems to be the factor that makes the glue that keeps the ceramic wheel on the steel shaft - fail. 1bar could be ok if you hit it every now and then on the street, but fail after your 3rd lap at a track where you see much more WOT with less cool down time.

I personally believe the brass boost restricting olive isnt there for so your cousin can recommend a quick boost up, but more to smoothen out boost control.

Its personal risk mitigation, if you can risk it, do it. If you dont like the remote possibilty of having to spend 5k on an engine rebuild, don't do it.

As for boom, when the wheel falls over at 150,000 rpm, it can spew chunks and evil "ceramic dust" This can be sucked back into the motor causing MASSIVE abrasion wear between ring and bore.

Let your search button do the walking for more info and experiences.

Haha yeah, i am definitely still a newb and i do have alot more research to go but i think i am slowly learning.

What you are saying is quite scary my friend i must admit, although i very rarely thrash my car and only occasionally give it a bit of a squirt on the road.

From what you are saying the risk appears to be low and i will be upgrading turbos shortly anyway so as long as i don't thrash it on the track i should be fine.. hopefully.

Anyway cheers for you help.

[R33-RB26DETT]

Hey,

another interesting factor after reading through the engine failure thread (Engine Failure Thread) appears to be that it mainly affects R32 GTR's not R33 GTR's due to:

"the drive engagement on a r32 rb26 is less than half the size of the r33-r34 oil pump engagement... nissan stuffed up and it a common prblem with wear and more power for the landing to crack then throw the gears out the back of the pump and send metal shavings all through the engine...."

all i know is i am buying a Power FC, and getting it dyno tuned + Comp Test again this weekend just for piece of mind - maybe even wind the boost down a bit depending on what the mechanic says. (Going to Chasers Motorsport).

[R31Nismoid]

hey nis, i have never heard of anyone achiveing 250 rwkw on stage 1 without computer .

msuen/PM-R33

Well its been done many times before down here, 240-250 no problem as mine certainly isnt the first to do it, and not recently either.

Its fairly common, goes with experience and knowledge really.

I'm picking up the car today/tomorrow so ill grab a pic of the graph if i still have it in the car (not sure where it is at the moment).

GTR-PWR, i take it your Melb? If you want the best, head to Racepace and you too can have a blistering setup

[wanted r34gtr]

hey r31nismoid , so if i was after 250awkw i don't need to get a power fc. I'm only going as far as stage 1 mods for now eg. exhaust, ebc 1 bar , air filter. If later on i decide to go to the next stage ( eg turbos, injectors, cams etc ) what is the limit of the stock ecu ? 280 awkw or more or less. I know i should really get a power fc when i go to stage 2 but just interested to know.

cheers

ote name='R31Nismoid' date='27 May 2008, 09:36 AM' post='3897182']

msuen/PM-R33

Well its been done many times before down here, 240-250 no problem as mine certainly isnt the first to do it, and not recently either.

Its fairly common, goes with experience and knowledge really.

I'm picking up the car today/tomorrow so ill grab a pic of the graph if i still have it in the car (not sure where it is at the moment).

GTR-PWR, i take it your Melb? If you want the best, head to Racepace and you too can have a blistering setup