Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I took my car to the mechanic and he showed me that my 2 air flow meter plugs where disconnected.. He said that this would affect the air flow mixtures and possibly even power output.

Since my car isnt running properly now there is no way to test if this would increase my power now that they are plugged in.

SO what affect would unplugged air flow meters have on a cars preformance, just more fuel bieng pumped into the engine yeah?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220638-installed-my-apexi-pod-filters/
Share on other sites

rev limit = 2500rpm

I'm confused buddy, your saying that it would only rev to 2500 rpm?

But i was redlining it no problems, and it didnt feel like i had lost any power to be honest with you.

I didnt even notice the difference than from the stock air box.

with standard ECU and standard setup if you unplug the airflow meters the RPM will cap at 2500rpm and it will be limp mode

there is no way known the stock ECU would run std maps with airflow meters unplugged, its suicide and the engine has no idea how much air is coming in

double check again or maybe you have some wierd remapped std ecu with a map sensor hack / hks vein setup or something look

look for map sensors and crazy wiring if thats the case

and are you sure he said air flow meters?

it could have been 02 sensors, they are on the dump pipes, the airflow meters are pink labelled plastic things on the air intake pipes

if it was the 02 sensors, the car will run fine, it will just waste a bit of fuel on cruise and your economy wont be the best - no power gain by reconnecting them

with standard ECU and standard setup if you unplug the airflow meters the RPM will cap at 2500rpm and it will be limp mode

there is no way known the stock ECU would run std maps with airflow meters unplugged, its suicide and the engine has no idea how much air is coming in

double check again or maybe you have some weird remapped std ecu with a map sensor hack / hks vein setup or something look

look for map sensors and crazy wiring if thats the case

Thanks man, i have gone an investigated everything you recommended.

First of all i must have a stock ecu as it has the Nissan seal is still on it:

But someone has cut a red wire from it and tapped up the end so it doesn't short anywhere.. what is this wire and why would they do this? take a look:

post-49206-1211601180_thumb.jpg

Also the i have circled in red the 2 plugs they found disconnected this morning:

post-49206-1211600948_thumb.jpg

I think we are getting closer to an answer thanks again!

see my pic - ive circled in red the true AFM plug, trace where the wires go

post-2054-1211604327_thumb.jpg

Good news i traced the wire back and its just the O2 sensor.

Ow well no extra power from plugging it in then.. :P

seen that red wire cut before on the ECU before?

cheers for your help buddy.

no worries - yeah 02 sensors unplugged wont cause harm, but you should plug them in, get some better economy

the red wire could be anything - its probably the speed cut wire, does it the stock ecu cap out at 180km/h on the track?

no worries - yeah 02 sensors unplugged wont cause harm, but you should plug them in, get some better economy

the red wire could be anything - its probably the speed cut wire, does it the stock ecu cap out at 180km/h on the track?

Yeah thats what i thought straight away too.. i havent been to the track yet to test 180km/hr speed cut.

I really want to head down to the track actually so i might become a SAU paying member since i hear they organise heaps of that stuff quite frequently.

The dudes got a PFC ne way so... :)

Actually dont have one yet, but i am trying to source one atm. Waiting on a few PM's from ppl selling on here.

Thanks for the confirmation of the speed cut wire too nismoid.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just install a grease nipple into the centre of the outer steel of the FUCA. Make sure the bushes aren't long enough to touch each other underneath that nipple. Cut a few mm off each if need be. Then you can push grease in there while it is all assembled. That was the very first thing I did (to all 4 ends) of the FUCAs on my 32 when I put Whiteline adjustable bushes into them. They would squeeze the grease out real fast, and I could squeeze it back in faster.
    • @GTSBoy I found the issue (sort of) when I took apart the bushing again, it was completely dry inside! When I experimented with it, all the grease would push out when I would compress the bushings. I wonder if this has anything to do with me putting in the poly bush first on both sides and then pushing in the metal barrel. Maybe I should have put in the metal barrel first then the rubber bushings so the spread pattern is different.   It's fixed (for now).
    • Just redid that entire job. 4 hours, but tightened everything properly. Had to jack the rotor instead of having the car on blocks as there was no room for the FUCA arms to tighten and the j arm. All good now. Cheers for the help!
    • I would sell those side feeds before you hydra-lock a motor. I won't say too much about Yellow Jackets because I'll hurt people's feelings, however ask those that tune RBs day in/out what they think of them.
    • The 1000ccs are side feeds but they're not currently installed, had my old factory ones in for leak testing purposes, only decided on them because front facing plenums and good top feed rail kits are out of my budget at the moment, are they really that problematic? Had a set of yellow jackets that lasted me 5 years, no real issues, only replaced them chasing this misfire issue that ended up not being ignition related 😄  
×
×
  • Create New...