Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Went to subzero, that car u are talking about well, the motor alone is worth 40000$ and they really shocked me. telling me all the bad things about the GTR :P gearbox , clutch :( o well. i will have to find someone to take me for a drive in one. if it impress me ill consider

  • Replies 56
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Originally posted by MELV

Went to subzero, that car u are talking about well, the motor alone is worth 40000$ and they really shocked me. telling me all the bad things about the GTR :D gearbox , clutch :) o well. i will have to find someone to take me for a drive in one. if it impress me ill consider

First of all, that car makes serious power, so what did you expect it to cost $5?

What bad things did they say about a GTR?

Second the stock GTR gearbox is a sensational piece of automotive equipment. You try to put 3 times the manufactures power through a WRX gear box and see how long it lasts.

Same goes for a clutch, but you can source strong ones at sensational prices.

BUT what times do you want to run?

Speed costs money, how fast do you want to go?

If you are going to get a GTR that does 10's, get an R32. Japan has plenty for import if you have the cash. For example here's one that would easily run 10's (and probably 9's if setup right) and it's only $35k~

http://www.prestigemotorsport.com.au/au/st...sp?StockID=1100

This one was already sold, but theres that many high hp R32 GTR's floating around the Japanese auctions you would be stupid not to consider them :)

Oh and that price is very damn valuable I might add. Trust 6 speed gearbox's are like $AU10k+ alone, you'll pay about the same for the T-88 turbo kit, and that doesn't include the bodykit, internal engine mods (it would have to have a built bottom end to reach 800hp/ps), wheels, roll cage, guages, suspension, carbon fibre bonnet and so on.

That sort of value is indicitive of the general value in buying from japan.

If I had ~$35k that car would have been mine....

Oh and if you have LOTS of money, try this one -

http://www.prestigemotorsport.com.au/au/st...sp?StockID=1264

building a 11 sec gtr is not that expensive, but 10 sec is.

the maintance of a 10 sec car is scary.

btw,11 sec is more than enough and will be a big different again with yr commie.

low to mid 11 sec - 2 x GT2530 tubro, intercooler, cams + cams gear, gasket, full exhaust system, injectors, fuel pump, Power Fc, clutch (somewhere around $20000-25000 )

not that much as i guess u have to spend similar or more to bring yr LS1 to 12.2 sec

Originally posted by GeneralSpeed

Oh and that price is very damn valuable I might add. Trust 6 speed gearbox's are like $AU10k+ alone, you'll pay about the same for the T-88 turbo kit, and that doesn't include the bodykit, internal engine mods (it would have to have a built bottom end to reach 800hp/ps), wheels, roll cage, guages, suspension, carbon fibre bonnet and so on.

That sort of value is indicitive of the general value in buying from japan.

If I had ~$35k that car would have been mine....

Oh and if you have LOTS of money, try this one -

http://www.prestigemotorsport.com.au/au/st...sp?StockID=1264

The following vehicle has just come into stock with a supplier in Japan for 3,520,000 yen FOB. The cost in Australia is estimated to be $60,300.

We have included the cost of shipping, import duties, GST, and our service fee in this estimate. Not included is the cost of compliance (about $4,000), tyres, Govt. stamp duty and registration (normal licensing costs for any vehicle).

The additional cost required to remove all modified parts for compliance is not included. :)

need to remove EVERTHING in the car and put them in again after compliance! the labour i guess would be another 10000 or so:shake:

Finally some people that know what their talking about.

Recepie for 11sec.

2x Air Filters

2x HKS 2530 Turbos

6x 550+cc injectors

Apexi Power Fc

z32 AFM

Cam Gears

Twin Plate Clutch (dont stuff around with a single button)

Intercooler

FULL Exhaust (Dumps-Tip)

A new bosch motorsport in tank fuel pump

Good tyres

Up graded Brake Pads (Going faster means you have to stop faster too)

Competent Tuner with accurate dyno

Maybe Suspension if there is money left over

What you Dont need:

Different cams. Not worth getting step 1 size because money could be better spent else where and Step 2+ need to modify the head, again spend money else where

Head Gasket, providing you follow the Competent tuner advice and keep boost levels about 1.5bar which is right at about the efficiency of the HKS 2530's

Bigger turbos

Forged Engine Internals

Forged Gear Set

Providing you dont mind going second hand parts you could probably get away with spending $10-13k including tuning and labour.

Originally posted by Maxx

The following vehicle has just come into stock with a supplier in Japan for 3,520,000 yen FOB. The cost in Australia is estimated to be $60,300.

We have included the cost of shipping, import duties, GST, and our service fee in this estimate. Not included is the cost of compliance (about $4,000), tyres, Govt. stamp duty and registration (normal licensing costs for any vehicle).  

The additional cost required to remove all modified parts for compliance is not included. :)  

need to remove EVERTHING in the car and put them in again after compliance! the labour i guess would be another 10000 or so:shake:

Hey if you've got $60k for a car you can probably call in another $10k for something like that, especially a 1000hp skyline! :D

It's fargin scary let me tell ya.

I finished a detuned setup today (timing backed off and the fuel on the rich side). The thing spins the wheels all through 2nd from 2500rpm till 100kmh, smokes the tyres all the way and gives more of the same in 3rd.

I'm thinking of doing a smaller jetting for tyre ecconomics, 205's are not up to the task :O

Guest INASNT
Originally posted by rev210

It's fargin scary let me tell ya.

I finished a detuned setup today (timing backed off and the fuel on the rich side). The thing spins the wheels all through 2nd from 2500rpm till 100kmh, smokes the tyres all the way and gives more of the same in 3rd.

I'm thinking of doing a smaller jetting for tyre ecconomics, 205's are not up to the task :(

i thought u were running a 50hp shot?

Originally posted by MELV

well its looks like its going to cost a fair wack of money to get a 33 into a 10.

What about if i do some simple mods like, cooler , up the boost , exhaust , twin air filters and cams, button clutch. will the be a good solid combo ?

this combination and the right tuner should do 11s,but forget the cams,cam gears are all u need,with a competant tuner u should get 240-250kw which is good enough for high 11s.u wont even need the cooler.

Melv,

its andrew here man when are you going to come up and see me at work? u know i can hook you up with a gtr !!!! and parts wise mates rates ;) cya soon bro!

BTW we got our dyno this week so next sat we are having a dyno day so you will have to come up and run the commie!

also i just got 182kw out of my r33 :D!!!

talk to you soon

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's the thing....the basics of fuel and ignition are deceptively simple.....getting it to behave like factory in all conditions after airflow mods is way more complex. Newer cars like the V37 are all about modifying the standard ECU which is about a billion times more complex than they were 20 years ago, with a bunch of parameters affecting others
    • The larger TB I had on the SS was a pain to get to idle right, but, that was cable In the end they just raised the idle up a couple of hundred RPM so it was happy idling away either in gear or in park (slush box life) I'm curious on how my NC will idle with the new intake, larger TB, and cams that are currently going in/on, but I have faith that MX5 Mania will sort this "electronical" "black magic" out the best they can in the tune with a electronic TB Sometimes I wish I knew more about the intricacies of tuning, but most of the time I don't because I know it would hurt my brain 🤣
    • That's the thing. Cam is smaller than before.. though the old cam was +6 degrees advanced. We're talking huge changes here, the narrowbands want to trim out 20% of fuel and pull the (wideband) idle to like 16.0 AFR or such. One side is a little more trimmy than the other. Think along the lines of ~20% to ~15-18%. Unfortunately my scouring of the internet hasn't really found anyone with this issue. People either just disable NB's or have them wildly different, where one is -20% and the other is +20 or 0 (i.e a sensor is just dead/wiring is just busted). Turning them off and relying on the base map only results in the wideband reporting at about 14.0 with the Varex closed. It'd be a little leaner (closer to 14.7ish) with the Varex open. I know I can just change the switch points so that the narrowbands agree with the wideband, but it's still odd. Both of them are reading voltage, it's just that they're reading quite high mv, in the ~800 region. It's just odd. This was with the IAT fudged to report it was about ~22 degrees which is my guesstimation of the temperature in the room. I have an OEM sensor ready to try tonight, which is slow and crap - but .. worked last time I used it. Sadly I am aware that idle tuning with the big TB is going to be a PITA and I look 'forward' to many hours spent stalling or stumbling idle or delving into drivability things.
    • The GTR strut brace clears the new manifold.. by about 0.5mm. So this means I need to buy an OEM GTT Strut brace (again), which will clear the new manifold, but not the bonnet vents. I guess I can sell the GTR Strut brace with the bonnet with the vents as a package deal as someone will need this one day. So my choices are vented bonnet but no strut brace, or GTR Bonnet with OEM brace (which I have to buy) but is bright red instead of the same colour as the rest of the car, which means the entire front end of the car will just be red until it goes back to paint jail. In other news the engine starts and doesn't leak. Why both O2 narrowband sensors think the tune is rich AF I do not know. The idle is also pretty shitty and my expensive IAT sensor from the USA is dead. The car sounds awful. But I assume or at least hope this is due to the many exhaust leaks, and the concrete garage it is in, sitting there with 0 intake bolted to it, and no bonnet or panels or anything to stop the induction/intake sound which is about 200db.
×
×
  • Create New...