Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Go a VH41DE, superior motor, except the 0.4 displacement... the blocks are the same so you can "stroke" it back to 4.5 using the VH45 inners.

If you do get a VH45, for the love of god don't get the USDM version, its a bucket of shit compared to JDM.

R32 would be better choice as it would give better weight distibution than the rb, would leave you with more room to work on the bitch to :(

But the VH45 is about the same weight as an SR20DET if you include the turbo running gear, so the weight itself doesn't change just where it sits.

Oh yeah, good luck with the bonnet :D

http://forums.nicoclub.com/zeroforum?id=193 is your new friend.

I dunno how hard it is to find a RHD VH45, you will have issues with a few things with the LHD afaik, not really worth it

You can use VH45 pistons and crankshaft in the VH41 to bring it to 4.5L

VH engines are all alloy so nice and light, very over engineered engines. You will probably have to go for custom pistons if you want to put anymore than 6psi boost in it but I think the VQ30DET pistons may be a good swap but unconfirmed I believe

Other than that you would just need custom engine mounts, adapter plate for gearbox (VG, RB, W57, R154 all solid choices), custom driveshaft, custom exhaust manifold and there will be a few other bits and pieces that you may need but nothing too major

People have done twin turbo VH45 into S13 so it's definitely do-able

i'm lookin at puttin a infinity v8 into a r32 or a s13

im buildin a drift car..

is this goin to be hard to do???????

you'll want some decent revs for drift. probably best to rebuild it also.

hard... yes

yea i would like to put one in a r32.

i may twin turbo it or supercharge it. i dunno yet.

thnx for all ur help ppl

wouldn't be my pick of motor for drifting.

  • 1 month later...
you'll want some decent revs for drift. probably best to rebuild it also.

hard... yes

wouldn't be my pick of motor for drifting.

You don't need revs for drifting!

If you needed all these "revs" why would the Holden V8 boys be able to compete so well, considering they only rev to 5500RPM...

An engine that produces torque, with a well matched gearbox and diff is what you need.

Think about it, the V8s frying tyres in second gear at 5500RPM odd, are spinning the rears at 130KM/h...

Stock skyline, with a stock gearbox/diff is revving at 7000RPM and only spinning the tyres at 100km/h, match the skyline motor to a V8 gearbox/diff, and what happens, it dies in the ass in 2nd, because all of a sudden, at peak revs, it's attempting to spin the wheels at 165km/h... Affectively attempting to use 3rd gear! But the Skyline (And most Jap cars for that fact) are setup to produce power by the way of revs, not torque.

  • 10 months later...

i've been looking into vh45 converion into a 180sx, the biggest problem i can see is with the exhaust manifolds. the engine being DOHC makes the heads wide and the fact it's 90 degree v8 mean that modifying the chassis os needed to get to the exhaust manifold to fit.

by the way if anyones got info on what the clearances are and if there is enough room for block a hugging exhaust as iam very interested in this as i am very keen in this sort converion. as my 180 will end up with either a VQ30DET or VH45 and if all else fails RB26

by the way according to my engineer the maximum na engine you can put in an S13 is just over 5L and 4L for a turbo. so theres no sortage of choice.

Edited by farch

There is alot of misinformation in this thread already, so I wouldn't be listening too much to what has been said...

It's probably best to head to the NICO forums VH section -> http://forums.nicoclub.com/zeroforum?id=193

It's the bible :devil:

  • 1 year later...
Go a VH41DE, superior motor, except the 0.4 displacement... the blocks are the same so you can "stroke" it back to 4.5 using the VH45 inners.

If you do get a VH45, for the love of god don't get the USDM version, its a bucket of shit compared to JDM.

R32 would be better choice as it would give better weight distibution than the rb, would leave you with more room to work on the bitch to :laugh:

Hate to dig up old threads like this, but this has shown up prominently on several google searches I've made, and I just wanted to try and clarify on this so the wrong information isn't spread around =P

Now I'm not a VH45 or JDM VH41 expert, but I have done a ton of research into VH45's for several swap I would like to complete (one of which happens to be into an older skyline, has to be 25 years or older to import to the states, and the VH45 would be a legal engine for a swap =D).

The USDM VH45DE is hardly a bucket of shit compared the JDM version. Now the comparison of a USDM VH41DE to a JDM VH41DE, the description would be very accurate. The only thing the JDM VH41 has over the USDM VH45 is the addition of a duplex timing chain, so the heads are a little bit better, but not by a whole lot of difference. Now granted down under, the availability of the VH41 should warrant the simple building of the VH41 using the rotating assembly of the VH45.

The USDM VH41DE is a fairly poor engine however compared to both the VH45DE and the JDM VH41. The USDM model did not have a crankshaft girdle, poor flowing heads, poor exhaust manifold design, and is generally much more poorly designed engine compared to the other two engines.

Again, I apologize greatly for being a grave digger, and it is certainly not something I do often =P I just wanted to say something as this thread has shown up in several of my google searches and I figured it might be worth noting that this information is not exactly correct!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The max they would go for me is 50.
    • That cannot have been a fun set of drilling. The stock "baffle" looks identical to rb26, I just cut fuel cell foam to fit the full length under the baffle.
    • I understand your sarcastic exasperation. But to be fair - the baffles do indeed fit OEM cam covers. They did omit to say that you need to do a bunch of stuff. But they do fit them.
    • Got started on the modification to make these splash plates fit over the long weekend. First the surprisingly time consuming task of swapping all the cam cap bolts to Tomei cam cap studs. I did the method of removing one bolt at a time, applying loctite to the stud, double nutting to torque as the manual described. Then carefully unlocking the nuts without disrupting the torque of the stud (and going back to re-torque a few times when it slipped). Finally applying the nut and torquing to spec. Repeat x28 Next up I went about removing the stock cam cover baffle so I could ensure it was fully clean after drilling for stud clearance.  As the blind rivets holding the baffle on were domed I used a punch to mark the center then used 4mm drill bit to carefully drill out the rivet without going too far part the baffle. As seen in other thread here is what is inside the stock baffles I decided on M4x6mm bolts to bolt the baffle plate back on with. I used a 3.3mm drill bit with some tape to mark the depth at ~8mm. Next was to tap the threads using a cheap bunnings kit M4x0.7. With the baffle removed I also drilled out the spot welds holding in the baffle plate oil returns. Unsure whether this was the best option or if I should have cut holes in the Hypertune splash plates to allow the oil drains to still function... time will tell. I then removed the the Hypertune splash plates so I could rest the cam cover on top and use a dab of grease to mark where the studs impacted the oem cam cover baffle. The most obvious spot was on the hump from the stock mesh is held. Using this hole as an anchor I bolted the oem baffle plate back into the cam cover and lined up the Hypertune splash plate. Marked the rest of the holes for the studs and drill those out too. Total 32 holes drilled and 12 threads tapped on the passenger side cam cover alone for this bolt on part that totally clears all OEM cam covers.. Drivers side next as well as some E85 safe fuel foam to fill the space behind the behind cam cover baffle plates. oh and some lock nuts for the splash plates of course.
×
×
  • Create New...