Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Please don't flame me im just a nub! :) Lol, But i was wondering if theres such a thing.. Im told there is.. But ive searched and haven't really found much on the subject. My gearbox is abit grindy as it goes in to third every now and again and i have tried Redline oil etc.. But im just wondering ( cause it come on after a day of hard driving ) Would i have done something to the gearbox? ( A mate suggested the sin chrome but then he said that doesn't just come on it progress's.. So would this be the start? ) If so why would the gearbox start to die under only 184rwkw.. I haven't grinded the gears or anything, But just now its starting to have a slight grind in to 3rd once every 10 changes.. But morel of the story is.. Does anyone know much about a dog box for a R33? And/Or a rough price? Cause im looking at putting alot more power in it once i have the money, So i would like to start with a strong base. Even though i was told Rb25 Drive line and engines are almost indestructible.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220699-dogbox-in-a-33/
Share on other sites

dog box????? do u enjoy loud howling noises and crunching into everygear instead????

a gearset made by os giken will do the trick its a sychro set to btw. u could get it dont and fitted for about 3500 to 4000 would have to order gearset from japan tho.... good for 800 crank hp so ive been told

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220699-dogbox-in-a-33/#findComment-3891932
Share on other sites

the previous owner of the car before you could have thrashed the hell out of it, but then u'v babied it but the box is still on its way out.

bigger clutch will put a little more strain on the box (aswell as other things)

does it grind when upshifting or downshifting? (2nd to 3rd, or 4th to 3rd)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220699-dogbox-in-a-33/#findComment-3894032
Share on other sites

To R33cruiser : I have only had the car for about 2 months.. and since then i only changed it last week to put the redline in it, But the oil was still really golden.

To hayden49 : If thats the case i don't mind, I have a 2way that grinds when its cold.. But im told thats normal for them.. And i mean if its a normal thing i don't care.. its just when its a bad thing then thats when i start to get worried about something going on me lol.

To StRyDeR: And no it seems to only been shifting up in to 3rd.. I mean with second and 4th its a little bit notchy and thats about it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220699-dogbox-in-a-33/#findComment-3894234
Share on other sites

I wouldn't personally worry too much with a dog box unless you're chasing power of well over 350-400rwkw and will give the car a punishing on a regular basis... Pretty expensive for those type of gearsets. Stick with the 25 gearbox. supposed to be strong as.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220699-dogbox-in-a-33/#findComment-3901387
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • There are a few different ways of doing it. I'm currently running two 1000cc pre-TB nozzles and PWM the pump for control. I'll be moving over to a constant pressure system and direct port. I'll run the pump off a regular relay, have it cycle on roughly 5psi before I start injecting to build pressure and then PWM a WMI solenoid (It's basically an injector that can take a lot of pressure and not corrode with water and meth.) The solenoid feeds the 6 direct port ~200cc nozzles. I'll also keep one ~250cc pre-TB nozzle to help keep IAT's in check.  Safety will be a little different as well. I used to use a pressure switch but will be moving over to a pressure sensor between my solenoid and nozzles. I'll trigger my solenoid and if I don't see specific pressure within a specific timeframe (e.g 100psi within a second, 175psi within 2 seconds), I kill it and revert back to non WMI maps the same way I did it before with 4D in Haltech. I was just figuring out the timers in my ecu last night. They made that a little more complicated than I would have liked... I wish Haltech offered a larger set of logic/math functions like other ecu's do. I can't do very much with just AND's and OR's.  I've been asked to do fuel/ignition mapping on a medium bore engine at work in May (192L V16). Being the only programmer in my region and having went and opened my mouth about knowing the ins and outs of fuel/ignition mapping, I have now been deemed an expert. Fun fun. The entirety of the logic and algorithms are programmed in C on a PLC. As I spend more time figuring it all out, I like what I see and eventually I may consider doing the same as a pet project to replace my ecu.   
    • This would be interesting, would you feed it via a 2nd row of injectors? Or just usual WMI nozzles?
    • Cut sump up and extend. Win win 😂 
    • All, What's the recommended torque for the 1/2 head studs for RB30 twin cam conversion with RB26 head?  
    • also, we need to know which solution worked....
×
×
  • Create New...