Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You seemed to have missed the point, but thanks any-who Beau.

EDIT: 5min of power Googleing had at least 5 ppl from SAU, Wikipedia and users from 3 different Skyline affiliated forums / sites say your incorrect... and non say you are correct. NVCS is on R33 25's, VCT is on the Neo's. Do you rem where you read about VVL?

Edited by GeeTR
yeah i tried telling some one else here that...

the rb's VVL is variable valve lift.... not variable cam advancement/retardment, it is not

like a honda vtec.

under each cam lobe is a hydraulic lifter that acts like a mini hydraulic ram expanding and contracting depending on the oil pressure and how much oil the ecu lets flow via the solenoid controlling it.

on a normal non vvl rb these hydraulic lifters are replaced by normal solid buckets.

when this occours it creates more lift increasing the airflow around the valves as it enters the

combustion chamber.

Is that why R34's have solid lifters and VCT?

The VVL wasn't found on any RB25...hence no RB25VET exists....and btw Nissans NEOVVL was the equivalent to VTEC, not the VCT(NVCS)

Every 12 months the dyno results get higher and higher, first it was 200rwkw in '06, then 220 in '07, now 240 '08 on a stock turbo?

Please... 240rwkw on a stock turbo is a load of rubbish. Get out there and run a 112mph (minimum) pass and i'll believe 240rwkw.

IMPUL ECU doesnt mean a lot, just a chip etc really, with an unknown map it almost makes it more of an issue than the stock ECU.

Also - didnt the Tuner tell you how much boost you were running?

Honestly i think the place your choose for the work is being fairly lazy with all of it. If possible i'd head somewhere else... although being Darwin your probably restricted in that matter.

Also 1bar on a stock turbo, is silly.

Yeah mate. There was a place here, Though he has closed down at teh beginning of the month. I hear theres 2 others dyno's around though I've not heard many good things about them when it comes to imports so I'm worried as theres not many 34's here yet also so knowledge of them will be a little more limited also. My previous tune was for 10psi (hot here so keep it safe on the I guess stock turbo).

I suppose the best thing to do is to get the front/dump, fmic, powerfc and get a tune done to see where its at then?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update for the sake of closure   Ended up getting the intercooler piping all sorted, new plugs and yellow jacket coils, and she was idling mint until it warmed up while I was bleeding the cooling system. Found the misfire to be localised to cyl 3 by unplugging coilpacks, ran a compression test, that checked out, then decided to get a mate to check if that spark plug was firing out of the motor. Upon cranking it over, with the injectors disconnected, the car actually fired and ran on a couple cylinders and heaps of fuel came out the top of cyl 3 I'd say that injector's either spraying incorrectly or spraying far too much, which is fine as I'm planning on replacing them anyway I'm planning on making about 250kW on flex fuel, and have a set of 1000cc injectors from ozautosport, obviously overkill but I'm planning on building the motor and running more boost further down the line, do you reckon they'd be too big for a smooth idle on 98? Thanks for the replies gents, much appreciated
    • I'm confused. You said you want to "remove the clear coat from most panels" but it sounds like you are actually doing a full respray? Few random things to add -  If you chase the blistered paint with 120 grit, I can almost guarantee you'll chase it down to bare metal (that's fine). But if you paint the car from here, you'll have nice little indents where ever the blistered paint was. The new paint won't magically level out the low areas, you need to fill them. Which leads me to the main point I wanted to add, make sure the whole car is flat before you paint it. All those areas with blistered paint you sanded out, make sure to fill them and triple check they are flat with a block guide coat. I'd also check the whole car is flat with a large block and guide coat but yeah up to you if you want to go that far.   
    • 300hp (225kw) is barely outside the standard turbo's range with a bit of extra boost in it (200ish). If you are going to change the turbo you should aim for 250-300kw (330-400hp) to make the expense worthwhile
    • A couple of things, firstly omg that turbo is expensive! $3,000 USD for dinosaur technology is robbery. You could buy a G series turbo and have a good amount of change instead.  If you want a good budget option, have a look here - https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/ If you are keen to spend more, have look at the modern turbos, Garrett G series, Borgwarner EFR, etc. Have a look at the RB25 dyno results thread for inspiration.  If you upgrade your turbo to something that will support the 300hp you want and only "probably" have Haltech ECU, your car will only "probably" run. Actually, no it won't run. You are going to need the ECU and injectors at the time you do the turbo upgrade.  No thoughts on "this much boost" as you didn't say how much boost that actually is. Having said that, plenty of unopened RB25's making even more power then what you are chasing.   
×
×
  • Create New...