Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i own a r32 gts-4 4 door manual turbo which has heaps of potential to go quick with a rb26 jammed in it i ve started saving for the 26 when i was informed by mind u a klosters mechanic(total genious;) that i have the gtr running gear. i have my doubts about this but he seems to think that i do. my only reasons for not thinking i have gtr running gear is that in gts-t's there is basically nothing that is the same as a gtr. One car came out costing 180k and mine i found out 60k i think. y would they use all the same components and just have a different engine.

if anyone knows anything about this subject help would be appreciated cos it would be christmas come early if i dont have to fork out 3k for a 26 gearbox.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220828-gts-4/
Share on other sites

Yours might be called a GTS4 because it has 4 doors. Mine is called a GTS4 because it has AWD, just like the GT-R.

Have a look in the engine bay, down near the starter motor. If you have the AWD version, then there will be a differential housing hanging off the side of the sump, as well as a drive shaft across to the front wheel.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220828-gts-4/#findComment-3893492
Share on other sites

Have a look in the engine bay, down near the starter motor. If you have the AWD version, then there will be a differential housing hanging off the side of the sump, as well as a drive shaft across to the front wheel.

Or you could do it the fun way,

drop the clutch.. do the rear tyre fry or does the car bog down and pull?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220828-gts-4/#findComment-3893569
Share on other sites

Or you could do it the fun way,

drop the clutch.. do the rear tyre fry or does the car bog down and pull?

it is alwd it pulls like a bastard off the mark and yeh it definetely alwd. i no the diffs in them are different to gtr's i m pretty sure cos they were putting them in gtr's cos they have a different ratio it makes them slower up high but quicker down low for 1/4 mile times.

its just the gearbox i m really interested in beucause it means the conversion is going to be alot cheaper and i have had mixed opinoins in the last couple days where i have been trying to find out what i actually have

Edited by Hunting Lions
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220828-gts-4/#findComment-3893655
Share on other sites

get ur vin fasted - that will tell you if its a awd....

if indeed it is a gts-4 awd, then it has the gtr running gear

there is some contention whether or not the front diff ratio is different, but pretty much they are identical

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220828-gts-4/#findComment-3894383
Share on other sites

get ur vin fasted - that will tell you if its a awd....

if indeed it is a gts-4 awd, then it has the gtr running gear

there is some contention whether or not the front diff ratio is different, but pretty much they are identical

No contention, R32 GTS-4 use 4.375 diff ratios, R32 GT-R use 4.11 ratio.

the ATTESA system requires the same ratio for front and rear diffs, although it can be changed from factory without any probs (eg it's a common swap to put the shorter GTS-4 gears into a GT-R).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220828-gts-4/#findComment-3895523
Share on other sites

yeah, gts-4 is BASICALLY the same aside from it has different ratios, in the diffs and gearbox! gts-4 gearbox has same diametre shafts, and parts but is geared differently, alot of people argue that the strength in r32 gearboxes goes gts-t<gts-4<gtr .... a gts-4 gearbox should stand up to a standard gtr motor just fine!

it is a common conversion in gts-4's

but considering the cost of a gts-4 and gtr .... you'd probably be etter off selling your gts-4 and buying a gtr! unless your really attached to your gts-4!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220828-gts-4/#findComment-3895654
Share on other sites

yeah, gts-4 is BASICALLY the same aside from it has different ratios, in the diffs and gearbox! gts-4 gearbox has same diametre shafts, and parts but is geared differently, alot of people argue that the strength in r32 gearboxes goes gts-t<gts-4<gtr .... a gts-4 gearbox should stand up to a standard gtr motor just fine!

it is a common conversion in gts-4's

but considering the cost of a gts-4 and gtr .... you'd probably be etter off selling your gts-4 and buying a gtr! unless your really attached to your gts-4!

well its a manual 4 door 32 gts4 turbo , and as far as i have researched they are as rare as rocking horse shit and is something different from what everyone else has so yeh i m kinda attached to it .

but if the gearbox can stand up to a 26 or a 25 i can get one of those at a resonable price from someone in my local area. cos with the rb20 in it i dont think personally there is alot of point puttin alot of money in as rb20 drivers seem happy to be in the 200 club. that is not going to make me happy so a 26 or a 25 is what i m doin

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220828-gts-4/#findComment-3895799
Share on other sites

That may be so, but is it worth the effort time and money to convert a stock car over?

If you consider what I have driveline wise to be a proper gtr.. which it is basically stock with only an hks catback and m's pods, now this engine made 221rwkw at 11psi with a very nice wide torque curve. Stock motor, turbs, injectors, computer, ecu, pump...

How much effort, time, and money would you need to reach the same point? Now how much would swapping over to a gtr cost you? You get all the good bits as a starting point.

Now I would never say that it is a dead set bad idea, but if you stand back and take a long look at the situation it might not be the most effiecient way of going about things.

One other point about doing that sort of swap is the cost further down the track.. I have a pile of parts purchased to go in;

pair of 2860-5's, orc twin, sard 700's, nismo afm's, pfc, 044, apexi pods, mines dumps and apexi front.. suspension was done just before it was taken off the road, and the brakes are due an upgrade after a bit..

It's like a credit card with infinite repayments..

I really suggest keeping the gts4 diff ratios, even though it hums a bit higher at highway speeds, it makes a difference in the get up and go. One thing I am happy is original, also the gts4 half shafts are meant to be a bit stronger than gtr offerings.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220828-gts-4/#findComment-3898952
Share on other sites

i bought mine with a Stagea rb25det motor and gearbox, was wondering if anyone had an idea on whether a stagea/rb26 box is necessary or just a stroke of luck on my part? its also running aftermarket ecu (microtech lt10s), now I'm looking at having to piggyback an original one onto it to get the ATTESA working, kinda wish the previous owner had gone down the tried and tested powerfc path, but you've got to work with what you've got i guess!

Can anyone tell me in a nutshell the difference between driving one of these 2wd vs 4wd? Apart from much better launches of course lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220828-gts-4/#findComment-3912917
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Hey all, I'm working on a project car and I believe I made some mistakes. I'm looking to remove the clear coat from my car on most panels (except for panels where the paint has blistered, I will sand this), but wanted to know if these steps are correct?   1) Get a red scuff pad (abrasive one) instead of sand paper to remove the shine from the surface 2) get 400 grit sand paper and go over the entire car with a random orbital sander so the surface is smooth and the primer can grab onto something 3) On the blistered paint, go over it with around 120 grit sand paper, go to 240 to smooth out the scratches, then finish on 400 grit. Anything to add in here or any feedback?
    • Agreed, another vote for the Haltech CAN wideband.  No voltage offset errors is a beautiful thing.
    • Just get a Haltech CAN wideband, no need to wire any delay circuits, or relay, etc. Since I've moved to a Haltech CANbus wideband, I have not replaced a single sensor for over 5 years (if not longer, can't remember when moved to Haltach).
    • Small analogue delay circuit with a relay. Just need a trigger, say, fuel pump running for more than 5s or so? Or, you could go full mental and write a sketch for an Arduino.
×
×
  • Create New...