Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So i have a weird situation with my rb25 engine...

I think i have rounded it down the engine rings or turbo failure, but then again ive been wrong before, symptoms are;

It blows oil smoke(yes it is 100% oil smoke) after about 2 mins of driving, no massive embarrassing plooms but enough to be embarrased driving in mild traffic. There is no oil in the intake piping at all near the compressor or intercooler. I have a catchcan with blocked off pcv valve to plenum..catch can is venting to atmo... so there is no oil going back into the intake.

After hardcore drives the catch can fills about 30mls, but that could be becuase i still have rb20 rocker covers??, although i do think the engine is a little tired..

The car itself cranks over perfect.. cold, hot whenever and idles great no smoke. It is only when the car warms does it blow smoke..the worst is when just taking off there a ploom then it seems to go away, then when its boosts its back again, and if i give it full boost hard i can see it on the backoff.

I personally think a rear seal is goone in the turbocharger and there seems to be a more than usual amount of shaft play(its a bush bearing highflow), as i think i can see small burring on the compressor fins, and is a bit shiny where its been ever so slightly rubbing. Thing is, ive only had this turbo rebult in the last 7 months...which sucks.

The thing that stumps me is the intake piping is clean, if it the bearing it gone it usually leaks both sides right??

helpy??

cheers

Raz

probably a combination of both, those factory turbo's last about as long as the time the engines due for a rebuild. give or take a few 1000 k's

it doesnt cost much to give a block a hone and face or the bearing's either, it's the turbo that is going to set you back.

if it is the turbo seal you have to remember the longer it is driven the more oil it is going to spill down the exhaust,

so it is a compounding factor that it will only smoke more as the oil builds up in the exhaust,

even after you have found and fixed the issue you may find the smoke is still there for a few days untill the oil is burnt out of the system

I wouldnt say a few days but yeah

I think i wrote in the post, but the turbo is only 7 months old, its a highflow bush bearing with steel wheels..still has warrenty, and will be the cheapest option for the time being..since its still under warrenty.

cheers guys

you cant just guess, you have to look at a few things to be certain!my has same problem,i changed turbos to a highflow,and the problem was still there,oil coming out the bleeder and oil in the intercooler pipes,find out it was the valve seals,in the process of building a strong rb30 bottom end with rb25 head!

ok dude. you need to see if there is any back and forth movement in the turbo. not up and down. very common to have highflows shit a thrust bearing if still using standard oil lines and banjo bolts.

30mls is nothing to write home about. the symptoms you are describing is valve stem seals or turbine oil seal.

just check the turbo again and let us know :down:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Add to this... What blew the fuse too? If a circuit feeding power to the coils was blown, how were the coils even functioning to let the car start?   There is some seriously wrong wiring in that car for certain, and I'm betting there is some melted cables somewhere, but I can't explain the 30v either, unless there is something back feeding on that power line that has a dodgy power system and the electronics are giving it hell.
    • This is typically the case with such threads. What I cannot quite get my head around is where a reading above 12V (or 13.8 or 14.x or whatever the maximum achievable voltage might actually be in that specific car) comes from. 25V or 30V should be completely impossible. There's no way to create it. Hard to answer that question. It will literally depend on whether the current tune relies on the values as set. I'd guess it probably does. ie, the real base pressure being 49 means that the flowrate through the injectors will be higher than if it was 43.5. The Haltech's modelling should be handling that, but because it thinks the pressure is only 43.5, then..... I dunno. It should be thinking that it will be injecting less fuel with each pulse duration than is actually happening. So, something is definitely not-as-it-should-be, but specifically what that is is beyond my abilities to imagine. Someone like Dose who spends more time with Haltechs might have a better thought.
    • Bit of a late reply here as me and my wife have been really busy with new born twins. I finally got these issues fixed and it was something really stupid that caused all of this 🤦‍♂️... After alot of mucking around with trying to figure out what is causing these issues, I back probed one of the R35 coils on the power 12v supply, with the engine running it got 25v! And I thought, hang on..., this isn't normal. Measured my battery with the engine running to check for over charge from the alternator and it wasn't that. So then I dissconnected the R35 PRP coil harness and backprobed the power supply on the engine loom where the ignition coil harness connects, with the key on ignition (engine off) it measured 30v! So then I had to trace where that high voltage was coming from and it lead me to the brown relay "ECM & IGN coil relay" inside the cabin next to the ECU on the passanger wall. This relay feeds power to the ECM and ignition coils. Tried swapping it with another same relay. nah still 30v.. coming from the 2 green/white wires in the brown relay. So then I set my multi meter to the beep continuity mode and probed every fuse on the fuse box inside the cabin to try and find this high voltage power source. Wasn't any of the fuses inside the cabin. Then probed all the fuses in the engine bay and BAM, got my power source that was a 10AMP fuse called "ENG CONT". Pulled the fuse out, and what do you know... it was blown. 🤦‍♂️  So then I quickly replaced it with a new 10AMP fuse, started the car and yeah haha [insert extreme face palm]... The RPM blimping thing went away, car idles smoothly now like what it was before. I swear! I checked all my fuses with my test light twice before I created this forum thread. I think, maybe because one side of that faulty 10A fuse lit up on my test light, I must have thought it was still ok and not blown. But now I know to have both sides light up on the test light when checking fuses... I hate diagnosing electricals.... I'd take mechanical problems over electrical problems any day🤣. Drove the car around my suburb with the engine up to operating temp and it runs fine like before. However, I notice that my fuel pressure is still at 49psi. So I'm thinking this must be normal for my system as I've upgraded the stock fuel pump to a Walbro 255L/h with a constant 12v mod.  But anyway, I'm just glad to have my daily back on the road! Thanks everyone for the replies on this thread, all sorted now! One thing I want to ask you tuner guys, my base fuel pressure on the haltech main settings are set to 43.5psi from default (my tuner must have not checked the fuel pressure maybe when tuning my car?). Do I set it to what it actually is idling on at 49psi? Or just leave it ("if it aint broke, don't fix it/leave it")?  
    • The max they would go for me is 50.
    • That cannot have been a fun set of drilling. The stock "baffle" looks identical to rb26, I just cut fuel cell foam to fit the full length under the baffle.
×
×
  • Create New...