Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 97
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Yo, man. My GTT is basically a RWD GTR.

600rwhp with a RB26DETT transformed to a RB27DET and a GTR tranny mounted underneath.

I NEEDED the MFD to monitor my car's vitals signs so I can help avoid trips to the Skyline doctor.

  • 1 year later...

Lol he be mad because he's only got a 32 and this swap won't work for him.

so... I have a R31 and I am about to go full custom with one of these.

question as well. I see a tach input on this - can I get a TACH gauge up on this unit at all?

I have pulled the tach out of my dash to put this display in place.

(and 2yr thread bump ~ !~)

Lol actually thinking of putting one in my ralliart colt, but so many better aftermarket options out there.

Oh good to see u still around chris.

yep still around , still screwing with old nissans..

Chris, There is no way to show RPM on the unit itself. The RPM input is used to trigger (at a desired point) the REV shift light on the unit. Let me know if you have any questions as I have just finished installing one of these (properly) into my GTT.

got this one on the bench and went looking. looks like I lost the tach in my car. its auto and no biggie.

progess shots: (reverse engineering the switches and video display at that point.)

1098176_10201795206065101_1210220218_n.j

anyone have an exact translation of the G sensor pinouts. I have the HK PDF but the pinuts for brown 25.26.28.29.38.39.40.44 are VERY vague as to function.

Chris, see attached image file. I copied this right from the Nissan R34 GTR Supplemental Manual. It has all the trouble shooting stuff and pinout for the MFD. Maybe it makes more sense than the HK translated one to you.

post-89402-0-57983300-1375884421_thumb.jpg

  • 8 months later...

Hi everyone,

I' settling the nismo upgrade on my GTT's MFD.

Does someone know how to install the exhaust sensor?

I mean like a tutorial of the set up?

Do I need to drill a hole or buying a v-spec pipe for example?

Thanks for the reply,

Oh if it could help, I have the Japanese manual and if needed I can take some picture of the two different board side to side while I will install it.

Really it wouldn't be worth it to go and find a V-Spec pipe to install the sensor, and it's not like it would just fit if you did get one.

1. Drill hole pre-cat but away from turbo dump (i installed mine 2cm before cat).

2. Weld bung in to accommodate sensor.

3. Screw sensor in and run wiring up through floor grommet under passenger seat.

4. Terminate 1 sensor wire to eyelet and bolt/screw to floor pan under seat.

5. Extend other sensor wire (it doesn't matter which), to the MFD display neatly and connect to exh. temp. sensor pin.

Don't forget to reinitialize the unit after start up to detect the sensor (and inter-cooler sensor if your installing that too). Although i guess you have to do that anyway since your installing the Nismo board.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Consider a 35 too...
    • He's right ~ there is no 'magic' with stuff like this ... it is more likely that in the process of looking for the short, the loom/wire 'incidentally' got moved in the process, thus removing the short ~ now, that maybe a wire (in a loom) rubbing against the edge of some grounded metal, that's worn through the insulation, causing the (now intermittent) short to ground. If one wire in a loom has been damaged in this fashion, it's reasonable to presume that other wires beside it may have also be damaged, and now exposed...you can bet the green crusty copper corrosion will start... ...that'd be a pisser, Murphy's Law steps right in as GTS observes...but worse, something like that is easier to find when shorted...ie; unplug bulb and fuse, and put multimeter in continuity mode so you get constant beep, and carefully poke about hoping to find if some movemet of the harness stop the beeping.... ...it's still all a bit Arnie tho' ..It'll be back... 😃
    • Yeah, but knowledge of one wire's insulation worn through to short on earth implies the possibility of other wires doing the same. I had my power steering die, because the wire that runs to the solenoid valve on the rack runs in the same loom as the power wire for the O2 sensor. And when the O2 sensor/wire did something stupid and burnt part of that loom to death, the only indication was the shit(ter) fuel economy and the heavy steering. It took deep excavation of the looms in the bay to find the problem. Not wear through in that case, but similar shit.
    • Ah, I thought he'd wired it to one of the spare ECU inputs! Too long ago since I read that post, ha ha. I've been arguing with radiators, harmonic balancers, alternators and rust since reading it.
    • Correct. The ECU cannot read oil temp. (Well, I think it probably can in some situations. I did have the thought of potentially repinning the ECU when I was doing oil pressure). I am using this into the MPVI dongle, so that the MPVI dongle can read oil temperature. It is attached to a VDO gauge which is obviously calibrated to whatever curve the sender actually is using. This would be easy if I could setup a table of voltage to temperature like many sensors, but it appears I cannot do this and can only setup the transform rule which appears to be Input (voltage) x Multiplier, and add an offset. This to me means it MUST be linear. So it may be a complete waste of time wiring this into the ECU. The idea was that the MPVI3 has standalone logging. I wanted to use this instead of a laptop with serial cable (for wideband) for long datalogs. Given the wideband also has electric interference, I may never trust this either in a world where the serial wideband and the analog output wideband do not agree. Last time I did a trace I could see the two wideband traces follow each other, but one was a little leaner than the other. I plan on playing with voltage offsets and actually driving the thing to see how close they correlate. If they never correlate... then, well, maybe I'll never use either. Ideally I'd like to have the Analog wideband read ever so slightly leaner than the serial one, because the serial one is 'correct'. Tuning the car to be ever so slightly too-rich would be the aim. Not needing to have a laptop flying around in the footwell connected with cables is... an advantage. About the only one from the forced upgrade to MPVI3.
×
×
  • Create New...