Jump to content
SAU Community

disconnecting immobiliser

ReVN211

By ReVN211,
in Western Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

ReVN211 Grand Master

ReVN211

Posted
Posted

I am in a spot of bother!

my immobiliser in my commonwhore is ****ed, i tried to override it with the pin but with no luck

i was wondering if anyone in this forum knows how to disconnect an immobiliser so i can at least drive my car and get another one fitted

any advice or help would be greatly appreciated

its a cyclops unit if that helps

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22107-disconnecting-immobiliser/
Share on other sites
ix9 Grand Master

ix9

Posted
Posted

With a dynatron/cyclops brand it's pretty easy, but involves re-wiring under the dash. Usually they cut off BOTH ignition wires with relays...

You'll see something like this:

Car Ign+ --> Relay --> Wiring harness

Car Ign- --> Relay --> Wiring harness

|

|

Immobiliser Unit

Connect the Ign+, and Ign-, back into the wiring harness, bypassing the relays.. May take some rooting around, but it's not impossible...

Hope that helps :P

hako Enthusiast

hako

Posted
Posted

usually immob are in series with 2 circuits under the dash - u should be able to see where ignition wires (thick) have been cut and the immob wires (thin) soldered in series with them

desolder the immob wires and just connect the original wiring back together

speaking of vk's there are too many similar shitheaps thrashing around the streets of warwick - i know coz i live there ;)

Nate Collaborator

Nate

Posted
Posted

here is an easier option.. usually works easier if you have a manual though...

If you have a 'cheaper' varient of the cyclone immobilisers, then this should get ya going.. turn the ignition to 'on' and leave the car there for approximately 35-50 minutes, if you have an electric fan, disconnect it, unless you have a manual which you can push start when your battery dies. Thats why this is easier with a manual. Go to the car after 40ish minutes and try turn the key, if it doesnt work, wait another 20 mins, if that doesnt work.. then im stumped ;) you have to go cutting :)

I KNOW and have seen this work to alot of cars, this works on stock vt commos as well.

Nate Collaborator

Nate

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by NuGGeT

hmm its amazing if you can disconnect your own immobiliser imagine what car theives can do?!!? hahha thats scary if people on this forum can tell u how to get rid of ya immobiliser

hahaha

to get rid of your alarm, all you do, is lie down under the bonnet, reach up, pull the bonnet cable, bonnet pops up, alarm goes mental, rip the siren out.. and then the alarm is useless :)

ReVN211 Grand Master

ReVN211

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Originally posted by hako

speaking of vk's there are too many similar shitheaps thrashing around the streets of warwick - i know coz i live there :D

mate my car ain't a shitheap

although it ain't a skyline it is good for the money i paid

i managed to find a way to trip the alarm so i could use my car. :thumbsup:

now to get down to business and work out a budget so i can get my R32 GTR.....better be ready ONYX

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sean'O
      3D printing fun

      By Sean'O · Posted

      Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) clogged cat

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Milkmun
      NC MX5

      By Milkmun · Posted

      Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • Milkmun
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Milkmun · Posted

      255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • Kinkstaah
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...