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1990 Nissan Skyline R32 - Excellent Condition


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Vehicle 1990 NISSAN SKYLINE HR32 GTS-T

Price $12,900

Kilometres 67,380

Body 2 door 4 seat COUPE

Colour White

Interior Colour Grey and Black

Transmission 5 speed Manual

Drive type Rear

Engine 6 cylinder Petrol Turbo 2.0L (1998cc)

Reg Plate

Road Worthy Certificate Yes

Vehicle ID 3661912

Brief Comments:

Nissan skyline r32 gtst in immaculate condition. Full MSPEC bodykit, 18" rims, exhaust system, front strut brace, after market gauges, hks pod filter. Vehicle has been tastefully modified, drives like a dream with good turbo power. This machine turns heads on the street. Interior is immaculate and exterior is in beautiful condition as well. Come check it out.

Mobile Phone 0404 594839

Contact Name - John

Location - Brisbane Southside

Serious buyers only & no tyre kickers please. Also if you guys coudl sms/call me on my mobile if your wanting a prompt answer.

Sorry no swaps.

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    • Thank you for the heads up! Will definitely take a look!
    • Hi all,  My 1990 R32 GT-R has developed a bad knocking sound coming from the what I assume is the front differential (the reason why I assume this is when I pull the fuse for the asetta the knock disappears put it back in and it comes back and yes the transfer case and gearbox has fresh oil in it), the uni joint on the front differential side was broken bad it would have been causing massive vibrations into the pinion gear,    has anyone experienced this before? And is anyone selling a front differential Center complete with pinion and crown gear ?    For the drive shaft I can’t find any driveline workshops in SE QLD that will put a new uni joint on the front prop shaft as they are a staked uni joint no one wants to touch it 😭 does anyone have any recommendations on any workshops that can replace the uni joint ?    sorry if this has been posted before I couldn’t find anything using the search function for this exact issue  thank you  NSM32    sorry for the bad photo, yes it’s missing a bolt I took the photo while removing the shaft to take to a workshop to try and get it repaired 
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    • It's very possible my measurements are wrong as I did measure with the wheel and tire still on the car. It's possible I didn't judge inner gap correctly and ended up adding width. I'm eager to buy new wheels, but I think I might be putting the cart before the horse. The best thing to do this right. I can take off the wheels off, I might even just have the tires taken off and do some proper measurements. It won't cost me much, if anything, and will save me a whole bunch of headache in the long run.
    • You are right, there are 2 ways to approach it, you can go for wheels known to fit well on the car, or measure from what you have. If you jack up the car and check the distance from the inner side of the tyre to the first obstruction (generally the control arm, or a shock) and then do the same from the outside of the tyre to the guard, that tells you how much wider you can go or what offset you can use. I'd note that 9.5 is huge on the front of a 33 gtst, if they are not scrubbing anywhere including fuil lock then don't change anything about the front width and offset.
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