Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well the one we ended up getting is supposedly the r33 one- but fit just fine.

in regards to the skew on the cat- its not just skewed on one plane - but also " runs down hill " as the exhaust fitter put it - but they chopped the flanges off the cat and rewelded them in the correct orientation and also put a slight angle in it to the cat lay flat and level

well worth getting it modded if you ask me. but that COULD be something particular to our car.

even paying the extra I still came out ahead over buying a more expensive dump pipe

hope that helps

[

quote name=webng' date='26 Aug 2008, 11:15 AM' post='4091831]

Sorry to bring this back up, but I have a 2000 S2 Stagea and am thinking of getting the JJR Bellmouth 3" front/dump pipe mated with the 3" xforce hi-flow cat... So it's a direct fit with no buggering around now? Even with the skewed cat?

yeah mine for the S1 is a r33 JJ belmouth, also on an downangle lean, had flanges welded onto the flangless-hiflow cat, so its all good.

3x installs. 1st was JJR bellmouth for $220 del and $100 fitted, then $110 Random Technology 617cfm hiflow cat del and $90 fitted, and Kakimoto GTR Racing free flow muffler $80 del and $80 welded on

all up under $700 for a 3" straight thru hiflowing exhaust, no drone, no restrictions. perfect for S1 or S2

  • 1 month later...

Hi guys,

Just wondering if anyone has any knowledge of/experience with these split pipes with S2 (or S1 even, for that matter - should be close enough):

JJR - under $270, bargain!

BOS Importing '33 split dump - around $400, not so cheap... but if it fits...

The 3" X-Force cat's are cheap compared to the BOS importing ones (about half the price); is 540cfm going to be noticeably less than 700cfm on a stock or stock high-flowed turbo?

i had a funny feeling that I should have checked here before buying my dump pipe a month ago

I brought the Stagea JJR Bellmouth Dump Pipe from Just Jap...

Went to Glenroy Exhausts to install everything (dump pipe, cat, rear muffler and get the pipework done) last friday only to find out that it won't fit. The dump pipe where the cat connects was too close to the transmission and hitting up on the floor and was about 60mm short. So it had to be customised(cut and lengthen it). Other than that it's all is good and sounds very good (3inch Magnaflow Cat, custom resnoator, 3inch X-Force dual tip exhaust) (no flow issues). the only issue i had to spend $150 more to mod the dump pip

The only reason why i'm saying this because after I installed it i read up on here and seen that people had issues with the Stagea bellmouth. So my guess is to test fit (if you can) before anything so you can go back to Just Jap and tell them it doesn't fit and get it exchanged (I may have gotten the wrong one - the R33, R34 and WGNC34 bellmouths look the same from the photo - but can't cry now - it'snow modified and its installed and working as intended)

all I can say definatively is for the s2 stagea the r33 bellmouth one fits

I know its a bit too little too late for you - but at least you didnt get too screwed over

the JJR r33 one fit on our s2 ok - I say " ok " cause it wasnt perfect- but for the price you cant complan !

i had a funny feeling that I should have checked here before buying my dump pipe a month ago

I brought the Stagea JJR Bellmouth Dump Pipe from Just Jap...

Went to Glenroy Exhausts to install everything (dump pipe, cat, rear muffler and get the pipework done) last friday only to find out that it won't fit. The dump pipe where the cat connects was too close to the transmission and hitting up on the floor and was about 60mm short. So it had to be customised(cut and lengthen it). Other than that it's all is good and sounds very good (3inch Magnaflow Cat, custom resnoator, 3inch X-Force dual tip exhaust) (no flow issues). the only issue i had to spend $150 more to mod the dump pip

The only reason why i'm saying this because after I installed it i read up on here and seen that people had issues with the Stagea bellmouth. So my guess is to test fit (if you can) before anything so you can go back to Just Jap and tell them it doesn't fit and get it exchanged (I may have gotten the wrong one - the R33, R34 and WGNC34 bellmouths look the same from the photo - but can't cry now - it'snow modified and its installed and working as intended)

and I SWEAR that if I hooked a decat pipe to our stagea it would blow flames- almost no doubt at all !

I am going to sweet talk loretta into getting it dyno'd so we have a ROUGH idea of the AFR

Hey,

Is that the "sweet" Loretta from "Get Back"?

I did not go split dump. Got a JJ bellmouth and a hi flo X Force Cat. The S1 came with a 3" cat back with a Fuji cannon.

Exhaust note is still stealth, but the increase in both power and torque is very noticeable. Fuel economy is 1-2 litres less

per 100, so am very pleased with results. I fitted the mods myself in about an hour. No mods necessary. Parts came with all gaskets and new SS bolts.

I have not opted to go PFC or Ebc. I run a switchable boost control, between stock, and as if the solenoid is grounded.

It works very well for me caus I live in a fairly mountainous area.

Incidently the boost mod cost $34.

It is a matter of horses for courses.

Great stuff guys... thanks for sharing your info...

here is an excerpt from an e-mail reply I received from JJR re. the split dumps:

"...

Hi David

>

> The pipes fit with no issues. Regarding which pipe, it depends on the

> stagea you have. if its s1, then its the same pipe as r32/r33 gtst

> otherwise if its s2 with the neo engine then it needs the r34 gtt

> pipe.

..."

So we still have this S1/S2 confusion?!?

Didn't the S1 Stagea originally use R33 running gear? Isn't the chassis the same for S2? So, even though it has a NEO engine, it's still the same *chassis*, and thus same length pipes as R33?

...can anyone clear this one up for me/us once and for all...? Please? :banana:

Great stuff guys... thanks for sharing your info...

here is an excerpt from an e-mail reply I received from JJR re. the split dumps:

"...

Hi David

>

> The pipes fit with no issues. Regarding which pipe, it depends on the

> stagea you have. if its s1, then its the same pipe as r32/r33 gtst

> otherwise if its s2 with the neo engine then it needs the r34 gtt

> pipe.

..."

So we still have this S1/S2 confusion?!?

Didn't the S1 Stagea originally use R33 running gear? Isn't the chassis the same for S2? So, even though it has a NEO engine, it's still the same *chassis*, and thus same length pipes as R33?

...can anyone clear this one up for me/us once and for all...? Please? :banana:

See my post #37 in this thread.

The R33 JJR Bellmouth fits the Series 2 Stagea.

I spoke with Just Jap about this before I fitted mine and they said they will refund money in full including postage if it does not fit. And it did fit-without cutting or mods.

The R34 one is NOT the correct one for the Series 2 Stagea.

Their website correctly lists the one product for the Stagea and I have sneeky suspicion that the R33 bellmouth fits both Series 1 and Series 2 Stagea (i.e same product R33 Skyline & Stagea Series 1& Series 2).

http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...=276&page=1

Darron is the guy at just jap to speak with- very knowledgeable.

OOPS, that information I received was from BOS Importing... so sorry JJR :banana:

Contacted JJR and got (from Darron):

"If it's a Stagea it uses the shorter front dump pipe like a R32/R33 Skyline,

the R34 uses a longer one but even if the Stagea is a later model with Neo

engine it will still use the same dump pipe as an R32/R33 Skyline."

So, that sounds right.

That is for their split pipes though, which he says need modifications to fit.

I have however been assured by BOS that theirs fits with no issues; but I will just need to work out with them R33 or R34 (pipe maker is away until mid November apparrently, so maybe someone with less experience with the Stagea is fielding questions while they're away...)

So has anyone got a BOS split pipe installed on a series 2? Issues/no issues?

Edited by DaveB
  • 1 month later...

i got a JJR Front and dump pipe of Justjap.com

only had it on for one day. flow's nice, just on minor prob. the bend in it is slightly out, and its rubbing on the Crossmember.

will adjust it next week

Did you get your full exhaust done all at once? The reason I ask is I have a x-force hi flow cat and fujitsubo cat back and was wanting to get the jjr bellmouth soon and had a few questions. Was it louder overall? Did you notice much difference after the bellmouth was fitted? Cheers.

i got a JJR Front and dump pipe of Justjap.com

only had it on for one day. flow's nice, just on minor prob. the bend in it is slightly out, and its rubbing on the Crossmember.

will adjust it next week

Did you get your full exhaust done all at once? The reason I ask is I have a x-force hi flow cat and fujitsubo cat back and was wanting to get the jjr bellmouth soon and had a few questions. Was it louder overall? Did you notice much difference after the bellmouth was fitted? Cheers.

it was louder but yet remained stock. i kept the twin tip design to keep the stock look (photos will be up here soon somewere)

yep all done at once. sound. sitting still there is no annoying drone that you may get from single muffler systems with a cannon. i can start it at 530am and not bother anyone.

but of course when you open up the pedal, the sounds comes with it good ol' RB note.

difference ?... 116.3kw before exhaust... 140.2kw after exhaust and that with only FMIC and POD

check the link below :(

it was louder but yet remained stock. i kept the twin tip design to keep the stock look (photos will be up here soon somewere)

yep all done at once. sound. sitting still there is no annoying drone that you may get from single muffler systems with a cannon. i can start it at 530am and not bother anyone.

but of course when you open up the pedal, the sounds comes with it good ol' RB note.

difference ?... 116.3kw before exhaust... 140.2kw after exhaust and that with only FMIC and POD

check the link below :(

Couldn't really read your chart off the video (or see the cooling fan - did your dyno guy have one?) apart from the max kw figure. How much boost are you running? My S1 makes 155AWKW at 10.5 psi with the SMIC and stock airbox (with highflow filter) - the only mod is the full exhaust - and would probably make a little more with a good tune now that i have fitted the IEBC, SAFC and SITC but I won't bother until my highflow arrives (next week). I would have thought an S2 would be up around 170AWKW on the stock turbo.

p.s. I see there is an AWD dyno at the Melbourne Performance Centre Bayswater ...or is that where you were?

Couldn't really read your chart off the video (or see the cooling fan - did your dyno guy have one?) apart from the max kw figure. How much boost are you running? My S1 makes 155AWKW at 10.5 psi with the SMIC and stock airbox (with highflow filter) - the only mod is the full exhaust - and would probably make a little more with a good tune now that i have fitted the IEBC, SAFC and SITC but I won't bother until my highflow arrives (next week). I would have thought an S2 would be up around 170AWKW on the stock turbo.

p.s. I see there is an AWD dyno at the Melbourne Performance Centre Bayswater ...or is that where you were?

i'll be posting the chart today as soon as i get it on the comp.

cooling fan yes. boost was at about 9 earthed solinoid, Then we un-earthed it and pluged it back it, still made 9psi but lost about 6kw, so just earthed it again for more power (weird)

Dyno Dynamics AWD at R.E. Customs there website is below the screen.

sorry about the end of the vid i thought i pushed stop. then the power figure came up and i got confused with the camera

i'll be posting the chart today as soon as i get it on the comp.

cooling fan yes. boost was at about 9 earthed solinoid, Then we un-earthed it and pluged it back it, still made 9psi but lost about 6kw, so just earthed it again for more power (weird)

Dyno Dynamics AWD at R.E. Customs there website is below the screen.

sorry about the end of the vid i thought i pushed stop. then the power figure came up and i got confused with the camera

Have you thought of by passing the solenoid instead of earthing it? You could probably make a few more kw with 10 - 10.5 psi plus you might want the solenoid later for an electronic boost controller.
Have you thought of by passing the solenoid instead of earthing it? You could probably make a few more kw with 10 - 10.5 psi plus you might want the solenoid later for an electronic boost controller.

nah 9psi i think is safe for the ceramic wheel... and my mech said its a safe bet to keep it were it is.

or i will be looking to upgrade it faster then i want to

  • 7 months later...

Well today i dropped my S2 Stagea off at my local exhaust shop to get my dump and front pipe installed. I used a second hand dump and front pipe that i had on my R32 when it still had a RB20 in it. Both parts fitted with no modifications at all :) So if people are looking for a dump/front pipe R32 stuff is the way to go, you can pick them up pretty cheap second hand :)

post-51334-1247049673_thumb.jpg

post-51334-1247049712_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Uniclutch install vid, RB Track edition.   Highlight reel is very drive able, not noisy but still heavy with the clutch master he has.      
    • And....if that could be true for all R34 GTTs, then it might be good. But in reality it is not really any better than my standard instruction to "go out and have a look at it yourself, and wave a tape measure around" etc etc, because as soon as you have any adjustable arms, or coilovers with smaller diameter springs, or tyres that have any bulge that goes out further than the rim, etc etc, then the simple version of the information is still potentially misleading. Plus, nothing in this is static. Everything is moving. At the rear the wheels swing inward at the top as they go up, so the clearances on the inside change as the suspension is compressed. At the front it's even worse. And then you have the difference in absolute wheel position in the arch can move around more, or less, depending on how compliant the bushes are. If, like me, you have sphericals on the front caster rods (and on the FUCAs also, but these are probably less dominant when it comes to wheel position), then your wheel will swing forward/backward under loads, as well as up/down, as well as steering angle. You end up having the simple numbers with 17 caveats/footnotes for each.
    • Both windows operate normally while the engine is running but start to sag as soon as I switch off.  Does anyone know of reasonably priced replacements or other brands that will fit?
    • Actually PowerFC is probably the easiest to get basic data from, it comes with a hand controller and display so you don't need to remember to pack a laptop every time you drive. It also has a PC based viewing/logging option if required. Nissan used consult on these because back in the mid 80s, ODB was just a glint in a standard's body's eyes.  They switched to OBD shape around 2000 (my 2001 Cima had OBD shaped but not OBD compliant port) With the standard ECU there is a cable and software available to give basic data too, I think it is called Nissan Data Scan or s
×
×
  • Create New...