Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 92
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

On my car it peaked at 4500rpm with the stock turbo, which I believe is pretty normal, and then started heading downwards.

there are alot of good turbos out there, just gotta decide what you want and then find the right one to suit. I dont know what the max torque is on stock internals, plenty of people making 300rwkw+ so if you work on a 7000-7500rpm limit, you could probably work out what sort of torque is being made. If you still have the book you borrowed, I am pretty sure there would be a conversio formula.

I hope the torque curve stays the same with more boost, cams and gasket, but I am not holding my breath:D

Nice dyno graph Steve. The graph does look very linear, which probably means that the turbo isn't considered "big" for the RB25. Also means that it should be very responsive :) I have attached my dyno graph for comparisons sake, same turbo but on a 2L and you can see that it's definitely a lot peaker than yours. Hence laggier. Off boost it really felt much more sluggish than the stock turbo.

Glad you got good results. Your aim for 300rwkw should be quite achievable.

EVOIV, looks like you were starting to run a bit lean there, 13:1 Were you gettting any detonation?What size turbine AR are you using? Perhaps a smaller one would make a bit of difference? Also what boost were you running? Its interesting because trent from autobarn was making in the range of 280-290rwkw on SR20 S13, he was using a 0.73AR turbine housing.

Certainly is a bit different, although the boost seems to build pretty quickly once it starts:)

the car is very responsive, even off boost it is so much nicer to drive. I wound in 1.2 bar, its just crazy, really got to be very gentle with the right foot if you want to keep traction:) Time for some R compound rubber I think:) or wind the boost down:(

Dont know if you noticed or not (on my other thread), but Evan gave me a quote on the turbo heat shield, said he makes them for $80

$80 for a heat shield seems nice :)

The turbine housing is 0.73. That dyno graph was run on 1.2bar boost. Nope, no detonation...it was tuned by Shaun from MORPOWA who now works for RPM. He said he could put in more fuel, but I'm not sure why they didn't. He said that that AFR was near optimum, but I always thought it should be around 12.8? I had a 044 pump with stock injectors. Not sure what duty cycle was, but I'm sure there was more than enough juice there.

I wasn't aware that Trent's car made so much power. I haven't spoken to him in ages, but at last years AutoSalon I remember him making around 230kW@wheels on 1.2bar? Maybe more. I heard that the engine blew up and they are now going to use an HKS GT28 series turbo, less laggy.

Originally posted by Munro

Mark Tilbrook & the others that work under him(Mick, Tharren, & Tyson) are top guys & deserve respect for what they do.

Geez John, not even a kind word!

And I tuned your ute, your 34, your 33 (on two different computers), and your other 33......

Mate, I forgive ya! :burnout:

I was reading a ford mag at work and it had this tuner from QLD that had 2 XR6T packages.

The first was around 6k I think it was around 300rwkw the second was 10k and 400rwkw. I THINK.. I can't remember exactly.

Any one know the exact figures/power?

just wondering if anyone new how much fueltronics charge for remapping.and would it be better to remapp my chip or just buy an aftermarket computer like a power fc? is there really that much difference between the two because theres a big difference in $$$$...the car that needs remapping has a bigger turbo and is about to have bigger injectors....prob 550cc and a gtr fuel pump

Eppilogue to dyno tune.

I saw Martin today, he spent a total of less than 1 hour doing a complete remap of the original tune. Results speak for themselves. The two runs are before and after (of course), but also got the idle sorted alot better (no more hunting) and it doesnt cut out when decellerating anymore (only did it occasionally).

Plotted in shootout mode (the only accurate way, eh Martin;)) the correction was only 1.029, so bugger all. Anyways doesnt make alot of difference, as there is before and after runs.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is the 650rpm idle on the rb25det neo for stock cars only? I've never had my car before and after tuning it to idle at 650rpm when cold. Always idle's cold around 1100rpm, and then drops to about 900-950rpm. I've heard the r33 gtst's idle there. 
    • Series 1 RB25DET 5 speed gearbox, push type, 1st and 2nd gear syncros worn, may need bearings. Comes with quick shift, Tomei gear knob, release fork, bearing carrier, master and slave cylinder. $850. Cusco Super Single clutch,assembly, 225mm, used, comes with a Direct Clutch solid centre 5 puck ceramic clutch plate. $290. RB26 cams used, excellent condition. $280. HDI GT2 intercooler, excellent condition, has 3 inch piping welded to inlet and outlet. $250. All items located in South Eastern Melbourne. Please PM me if interested.
    • Hi all, I’m currently running a str pipe hi low hks exhaust and downpipe. Was wondering if I change out muffler to a titanium one will it change the sound of the exhaust? Plus I have always liked the look of the titanium pipes … anyone have recommendations to one?    side note already have titanium intake pipes. 
    • I looked up my other car that is a R33 GTST series 1.5. Anyone able to confirm what a Aero Form Bumper is?     (1G) 2 Door Coupe; (2GK + 11V) RB25DET; (4B) 2WD HICAS; (7F) 5 Speed Manual; (14G) Super Fine Hard Coat; (15U) Large Rear Spoiler + Aero Form Bumper + Rear Wiper (Aero Selection)
    • Ha ha, all good! I've almost caved in and realised I'm buying one.  I know myself well enough by now that I will start chasing ADHD butterflies half way through building it and not finish it so I'm better off spending the extra money buying one instead of making one just so I can get into straight away.  I would very much enjoy making one as fabrication is probably a strength and definitely a passion but I don't want that to be at the detriment to the car I'm ultimately building it for! There's some pretty good ones around for ~$1100 at the moment so I think I'll just go that way.  At the end I sell it or as mentioned, get another project to make further use of it! Thanks gents.  
×
×
  • Create New...