Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 155
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

in all reality its which ever one you like more than the other.

plus look at which one is looked after better, lower kms.

in saying that id probably prefer the 33 over the 34..id only ever buy a 34 if it was gtr but thats just my opinion chose which one you like the most.

NA R34 > NA R33

newer, more reliable, interior is moderately upgraded etc. etc.

it's all the little things that count... you won't regret it

never owned an NA Skyline in my life but i love the look of the R34, i own a GT-T and used to tell myself i wouldn't buy an R34 unless it was a GTR...

reality is, not everybody can afford it... go the R34, a lot newer and classier looking

my2c

Andrew :P

R34 without a doubt! Hands down!

5 stud

Less km's

VVL

Nicer interior

Newer

*bling* factor

But one question?.. why would you consider a "down grade"? The price difrence is quite large.. would the entra money go on mods?.. If so.. Id go a 33! Slap some coilovers, wheels, cams, zorst..

my 2 cent

NA 34 17 - 18

NA s2 16

1 grand extra just for the convinience of a new model.

Im leaning towards the R34 now, my dad's starting to brainwash me aswell haha.

MR_XTC

go the r34 i own one they are great, and if i wanted a second car id go the r32 i still love the shape.

just a quick question where are you from cause those prices are quite high i can get a turbo r34 for that price. i picked up mine for 13,000 all up. or are you just giving a rough quote.

i'd go for an R34... however like cris said can the money go to supporting mods if your not too fussed about looks?

the R33 is actually more compatible to other parts than the R34. i.e. R34GTR seats will not fit in an R34 GTT (which i am 99% sure is the same as the R34 GT) - weird huh?

scotty014 im in NSW dude, well i saw one for 17. Im really keen on getting it just waiting for the funds !! :thumbsup:

and EUG, im looking at getting a R34 or R33, working on the cosmetics and audio departments, and slight mods to the engine itself, then heavy engine mods will be undertaken once i get my full licence, seeing as i am disqualified at the moment.

I get my licence back in March, and till that time i will just be running the car in the area and cosmetics, and im into the R34 now because it will be less of a headache, but seeing as they are not compatible with much R34 interior parts, that doesnt phase me as much. Because the main aspect im looking at is the engine compatibility of the 25GT and GTR.

One more thing, is the 25GT AWD ? and will this cause loss in power ?

Is there a way to change it to RWD only ? cause' ive heard a few people talking about a fuse which you take out to make it RWD and pop it back in to make it AWD, is this true? and if so i'll be doing it at my own discretion, will it be bad for the car in the long / short term ?

MR_XTC

Edited by MR_XTC
One more thing, is the 25GT AWD ? and will this cause loss in power ?

Is there a way to change it to RWD only ? cause' ive heard a few people talking about a fuse which you take out to make it RWD and pop it back in to make it AWD, is this true? and if so i'll be doing it at my own discretion, will it be bad for the car in the long / short term ?

MR_XTC

If your not fussed about HEAPS of mods.. then go a 34 hands down without a shadow of a doubt! There are TOO many benefits going a 34 over a 33.

25GT AWD is an R34 GTS4.. 25GT is simply an NA RWD R34. NA GTS4's have an RB25DE VVL with the ATTESSA (4wd) system like the GTR has.

"loose" power.. not exactly.. because R34's run a constant 5% of power to the front wheels.. a dyno read wont show you have as much power as a straight RWD car because 5% of the power is being sent to the Front wheels

The "fuse" you speak of is only in R32's.. where you can disengauge the ATTESSA (4wd) system by simply removing a fuse.. For R33's and 4's you need to remove the front prop shaft from the frnsfer case to the front diff.. No.. this will not be bad for it.

Hope this answeres your questions

Edited by GTS4WD

Cheers man, cause i had some doubts about the AWD aspect to it.

Im lovin' the sound of this !!

Im gonna' go check out a 34 in Eastgarden's tomorrow, hopefully turns out to be good, and will hopefully get it by the end of the month!!

I really like the R34 now, even though a 34 was what i was looking for, but after a lil' brainwashing from dad, im gonna go for a 34.

SCOTTY get back to me about where to get cheap 34's lol, cause all i can see are price ranges of 16 - 19

MR_XTC

r33s are better

34's are ugly and more expensive

buy my car, youll save money and can spend it on making it better :banana:

lol says the guy with a 33 haha....

at the end of the day its your choice, take both of them for a drive and see which one you prefer. The rb25 is as tough as nails in both models so i doubt you'll run into any troubles with either the r33 or r34 mechanically (unless it was severly abused).

I personally perfer the 34, and because of that i drive one, it all depends on what tickels your fancy. imo the r32 is a great shape and i thought with the r33 they lost a bit of the aggressiveness by having a "smoother" looking car, but with the 34 its more inline of the r32 with a more "square" shape. The 34 has more power, is definately nicer inside and the exterior is upto the individual but for the extra 2-3k you would be crazy to get a r33 over a 34 (na wise).

:)

Edited by R34GTFOUR
NA R34 > NA R33

newer, more reliable, interior is moderately upgraded etc. etc.

it's all the little things that count... you won't regret it

never owned an NA Skyline in my life but i love the look of the R34, i own a GT-T and used to tell myself i wouldn't buy an R34 unless it was a GTR...

reality is, not everybody can afford it... go the R34, a lot newer and classier looking

my2c

Andrew :)

Yeah i used to have the same mind, if i was to get an R34, then it had to be a GTR. But after reading some of the forum posts there are just more to it with a GTR than meets the eye such as cost of insurance, maintenance and paranoia (if somebody scratches the car). I didn't have enough cash so i bought a GTT.

IMHO, i'd get a R34, there are less of them on the road, they look better than a R33, slightly newer.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Saruthewhite hasn’t been on our site since November 2016 sorry mate
    • Note when Duncan says that, he means "when you're not using the correct lifting points on the sills, because you want to work on the sills. A 2 post hoist is not appropriate for everything anyway, and working on the sills is a good example of that, because the arms go under ths sills anyway. You're better off finding another way to support the car off the ground. Beyond that everything else D said is correct. Only the dedicated jacking points are the correct place to lift. Anywhere else is incorrect, extra caution and awareness must be used, etc etc.
    • Your off site links didn't work for me, and in any case it is easier for forum members if you post the pic directly either as an attachment or a link so the information is all in one place. That aside, the sills are the correct place to lift the car, whether with the factory jack or a hoist. Yes you should use rubber blocks with a slit for the seam on a hoist to avoid bending the pinch weld (where yours is currently bent, just bend it back if possible eg vicegrips), and be aware of the height you need in the blocks to clear any sill extensions to the hoist arms as it lifts If what you are doing needs access to the sills, the rear subframe bush would also be strong and secure. I'm not sure what you mean by sidemember (maybe same part I mean by sills) but be careful that your front support point is not too far back as the car is very front heavy and could overbalance.
    • Here's my first iteration - white duct tape so color is off, but this is just a straight line across the bonnet lip. From a geometry standpoint, this is probably closest to what a GTR has. Next up is some $5 white pearl vinyl and some rubber door sill trim, applied to the BACK of the bonnet lip. It's more accurate placement to the GTR, but also follows the body lines on this setup a bit more. Couple more pics on this config incoming: Again, a $5 vinyl and rubber job, it's  POC still and not how I'm gonna run this part. But one thing I'll note is that the black trim does need to "straighten out" a bit, and instead of going completely along the line of the bonnet lip, might be better suited to wrap over the "horns" of the bonnet lip, giving it a less aggressive curve up at the ends.  The correct way to do this would be to paint it body-matched and then decide how you want to make the black line. If you used paint or a pinstripe, you could have the black line go straight to the corner of the headlight where the rubber strip typically meets the headlight on a GTR.   Hope this helps!
×
×
  • Create New...