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good question. I used same torque and had no problems despite using the car hard.

however - the nuts showed wear where they hold onto the wheel surface so I ditched them and went back to steel ones. Frankly I dont trust the ally ones to be durable enough

I have neen using BSA alloy open ended nuts, which fit in the 23mm holes on the rims... very tight fit if you wanted to use a socket...

Been to all tyre and car accessories places around, people just look at me weird, (like more than normal)...

I ended up going direct to BSA to get em... But I cracked one, and don't want to drill another aftermarket longer than standard wheel stud... they are hard to drill and not cheap...

Any suggestions?

Try Bell Garage for the Buddy Club nuts, we used a set at Eastern Creek and they were superior to the other brands we have use previously. Consistent torque, no wheel damage, small OD and no signs of stress.

Cheers

Gary

Do they actually make open ended steel wheel nuts...? If so where from?

in black, I guess thats pushing it....

I'm running those on both mine (R30 / R32), "chrome". They use a 12mm hex key (giant allan key) to fit / remove. I think Autobarn and the like have them, certainly any half decent wheel / tyre place should have them.
Try Bell Garage for the Buddy Club nuts, we used a set at Eastern Creek and they were superior to the other brands we have use previously. Consistent torque, no wheel damage, small OD and no signs of stress.

Have you used the RAYS Duraluminium nuts? Just wondering if the BC ones are superior to the ones I've got now.

the rays duralumin one are ok, but not great.

if you take your wheels on and off a lot, and you do track work (the two go hand in hand really) then I would look at Rays Daytona wheel nuts. they are small OD, open end, long shank, steel nuts, with a durable coating. very nice nuts and recommended for racing. rays don't reccomend the duralumin nuts for racing, they are really for street use (proven by the fact they come with lock nuts).

the other option is work make nice small od, long shank, open ended, black steel nuts too.

i forgot to mention, both the rays daytona and the work nuts are 17mm head which is good as some wheel you have no chance of getting a 19mm socket in there.

sorry, but doing them "as tight as you can" is anything but safe. Over the years of racing I have had wheels come off because of nuts too loose, and nuts too tight (snap studs so wheel comes off). And tyre shops that tighten wheel nuts using rattle guns are just as bad unless you are sure they have checked the torque of the rattle gun.

I haven't tried either rays nut, I used the 5zigen ones. But as said above I was not happy with the damage to the seat of the nut, outer of the nut or the strength of the thread. Steel for me all the way.

And please give me a break and don't tell me lighter wheel nuts are better due to the weight difference

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