Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HI ALL

was going to paint my rocker covers and coilpack covers and the cam cover

just wondering if i need to use a heat proof paint for the plastic cam and coilpack covers or will just normal auto paint do the trick as i want to do it the same colour i have on my dash.. i know i need the heat proof paint for the rocker covers.. just wasn't sure about the plastic..

has anyone done these in auto paint?, any issues?

Any help will be greatly appreciated

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/221513-painting-the-coilpack-cover/
Share on other sites

Ive heard its fine, but I wouldnt trust it for longevity.. Id say spray heatproof down, spray your colour ontop (sand smooth first tho) and then clear coat with heatproof then id doubt you would have an issue.

For the plastic might as well do the same but either way will be fine.

You can buy the heat proof paint at auto barn for like $12.

It can take up to like 650 degree C or whatever... Ppl paint exhaust mainfolds with them and it will be fine to paint you rocker cover.

Clean down the surface / sand down and apply the paint.

SAU member RSPEC painted his rocker cover and then I went and painted my Inlet Plenum. Looks nice.

Id say spray heatproof down, spray your colour ontop (sand smooth first tho) and then clear coat with heatproof then id doubt you would have an issue.

For the plastic might as well do the same but either way will be fine.

Thanks decim8 i'll give it a go doing it that way sounds pretty logical having the colour in a heat proof coating, basically. :D

Cheers

He was asking if he could use normal acrylic paint/spray auto paint on rocker covers. Thats what Ill be doing.

And secondly I can mod them for you.. Dont know how much it would cost, nor what it would end up as but if your keen to be a trial im sure we can work out a super low cost. I just remembered Perspex will bend with heat to much, might have to look into some other option.

This bending is sometimes useful as I can create shapes with the perspex such as a large bubble down the middle, takes abit of effort tho

Edited by DECIM8

mate seriously, what is the thing in your engine bay that makes all the heat?

your engine..

if you want the paint to stay where it is for more than a week

spray it with heat proof primer at least

theres a picture of my engine in my for sale thread

the high temp paint isnt much more expensive

I've powder-coated mine in the GTR and couldn't be happier with the way they have turned out.. Just thought this might be an option to "painting" them. Powder -coat is good for higher temps also.

Cheers,

Adrian

I've powder-coated mine in the GTR and couldn't be happier with the way they have turned out.. Just thought this might be an option to "painting" them. Powder -coat is good for higher temps also.

Cheers,

Adrian

unfortunately the valley cover on teh RB25det's are plastic and cant be coated. :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Only thing I'd add...is on recommendation from a good diff shop, I've used mineral oil in my diff including the race car for years. The synthetics can be too slippery and glaze the gears
    • 75W90 GL5 is fine. If you aren't sure about the type get one with LSD additive. 
    • Because you're effectively rushing the shift and forcing it to go in - with greater leverage against parts that don't _want_ to go together. Short shift = forcing the gear in harder. Also Redline Heavy Shockproof actively says not to use it in anything with Synchros. Well, it says "not recommended" which is basically as far as anyone will ever say in a product statement to "Do not use" Generally the Redline makes the gearbox feel great... until it fails faster. https://www.redlineoil.com/heavy-shockproof
    • 99.9% of them are viscous diffs. The 0.01% are helicals. They were only option-able in the series 2, as well. I have redline heavy shockproof in my helical. It seems... fine? I don't think anyone is ever going to know until something really breaks and at that point I'm not sure anyone will blame the oil. I just chose it because it's extremely heavy duty and my car will see not-road-legal duty for it. I've also had sadness with various diff oils in the past sweating out everywhere and/or other 'fun' things, with clutch diffs. Given you have a 1.5 way on the shelf, I'd not even bother with the diff in the car and just get to tinkering with it. I would spend the $90 on oil toward the labor of someone else putting the diff in if time poor even lol.
    • I believe mine is helical and not clutch type. During drifting one wheel was spining as if it was open diff so bought kazz 1.5 way and has sat on my shelf for the past 5 years as I want to learn shiming process and do it myself   in meantime thought I change the diff oil hence post here. So any 75-90?   i am pretty sure r34 are helical not clutch lsd as standard . That is gtt ones
×
×
  • Create New...