Jump to content
SAU Community

Engine Rebuild?


Recommended Posts

What parts should be changed when rebuilding a motor to run at the stock 7psi? I just want it to run well seeing how it has over 150k on the motor, I searched but only found engine builds that will have monster hp, I just want to get mine running smoothly and reliable before adding more expensive parts for more power

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if its just to run 7psi, and it only has 150k on it i wouldnt bother, just keep saving your money for a proper rebuild if you plan to do it.

some items you MIGHT want to replace though, gaskets, hoses, piston rings, make sure your valves are sealing and arnt carbon'd up.

how far down the track did you want to put more power into the engine? what engine?

how much money were you wanting to spend on this engine build (refresh)??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry, rb26dett, Im getting the car next week(cant wait!) and I dont want anything to happen to it in the first month of driving it. well in the future my goal is 450-500whp. mostly for weekend driving and the track for fun

well it says 150k, and could of been driven really hard, not taken care of and rolled back too

Edited by DosuGTR
Link to comment
Share on other sites

well when you get it, change plugs, fuel filter, have a look at the brakes, check all suspenion bushes. just give the car a good check over in general, if the majority of things look good then you should be fine.

dont thrash it stupidly and itl last for a while. but since ur only just getting it...you'l thrash it haha.

just see how it feels and looks before you start organising a rebuild. 26builds arnt cheap...

where are you located?

CJ

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry, rb26dett, Im getting the car next week(cant wait!) and I dont want anything to happen to it in the first month of driving it. well in the future my goal is 450-500whp. mostly for weekend driving and the track for fun

well it says 150k, and could of been driven really hard, not taken care of and rolled back too

So you want to rebuild it once to suit 7psi and basic power, and then rebuild it again later for 450-500rwhp?

You obviously don't know how much the labour/machining/necessary parts costs for a rebuild... it's BIG money.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well I cant just like change the water and oil pumps now ect, then later change the pistons and rods and all? or is that pretty much useless and going to cost my twice the labor? I guess ill just save up and do it in one shot, I heard there was some site to buy rebuilt rb26's?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So you want to rebuild it once to suit 7psi and basic power, and then rebuild it again later for 450-500rwhp?

You obviously don't know how much the labour/machining/necessary parts costs for a rebuild... it's BIG money.

sorry mate but he's right. engine rebuilds are only if you need it. your gonna need your cash for everything that breaks down on them. keep a stash for when that happens

Link to comment
Share on other sites

have you had a GTR before? realize how much power they have stock? you can easily get 300awkw out of a GTR with simple cheap and easy mods like exhaust turbos and boost. if its got the 150,000 on it then maybe it already has had the pumps replaced. you would find it a lot cheaper to do a 100000km service then to rebuild the whole motor

Link to comment
Share on other sites

well in that case, maybe you are better off replacing the brakes and rotors, new suspension. while you are there, replace the bushes.

the interior would be on the way out by now as well, so order new plastics, seats and carpets.

seals around the windows are getting a bit weary, and you don't want them blowing out while you are doing a 300kmh plus pass down to the local shops, so replace them, along with basically anything else that is over 12 months old...

maybe just buy a new gtr...?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well I figured alot of these imported skylines were beaten on so its better safe than sorry

Dude, if the WORST happens and your motor lets go, you'll be up for a minimum $6000 rebuild (incl. labour, but mostly stock parts).

If you want to make sure that doesn't happen, you're up for a minimum $6000 rebuild (incl. labour, but mostly stock parts).

Safe = $6k, Sorry = $6k.

There is no point in doing what you're saying. You're better off changing the oil ever 1500kms like most do and hoping it doesn't spin a bearing (good luck!).

If you want to be assured your car wont break down in the first few months of ownership, don't buy a GT-R.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you want to be assured your car wont break down in the first few months of ownership, don't buy a GT-R.

Or buy one with an already rebuilt motor, or buy one with a popped stocker motor with the plan to rebuild it. No gambling this way, know what you are getting.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah just go with it for now. main thing is to give it a good service (eg all new fluids - there are a lot in a gtr.....) and don't turn the boost over say 12-14psi. You should be fine, and if not you are in for that rebuild anyway :blink:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's true. However, this problem has started since the tuning. First time with the return journey from the tuning. But yes, the pipe was clogged with dirt and rust. That was certainly due to age
    • Great info @tidi0x  Will definitely be handy for others and maybe me if I decide to keep the shit box H pattern.
    • Bumping this up one last time.... I wanted to follow up on the clutch slave issue. I realized that what the issue comes down to is the pocket is flat milled, and the cylinder does not want rest flat. So in order to mount it correctly you will need to make a spacer for the fingers so the cylinder is floating. I took two plates of aluminum, drilled some holes and was good. I did still need to make the relief cuts in the bell housing, as even with the spacer the bleed section still interferes. The OE bell housing the mounting holes are raised from the housing.       
    • If the event in USA goes ahead will be interesting as it seems the rules will get more cars over here. Apparently the track is laguna seca too. Yeah s15, if I get a the lower dash trims, centre console and change front cross member to standard LCA position will fit clubsprint. See how rules are as i would rather do complete widebody than a bolt on flare to run the 295 with proper clearance.
    • If the car is legal height I can't see it being an issue. Found a thread on reddit that might offer some insight.   I got a ticket from a copper in QLD for my S15 being too low. They had this wheel thing on a stick that they put under the car and it hit my exhaust. Anyhow went to an exhaust shop to get the exhaust tucked up/hung a little higher and I wound the coilovers up a smidge. Don't think I even had to go back to the police station unlike when I got defected for having a carbon bonnet when I brought the S15 from the ACT to QLD and had to replace it and then rock up at a police station and have a yougish female officer who knew nothing about cars confirm that I had changed bonnets. Should have just painted the carbon bonnet yellow to match the rest of the car lol
×
×
  • Create New...