Few R30 Questions

[Factory 5]

just look for a 2nd hand L24e from a series 2....

would take about 4 hrs to do.... old engine out, new one in....

then get the old one taken to a mechi and get it stripped down for spares

[guska]

Still having trouble getting the head off. How do I loosen the timing chain? I can't see any way of accessing the lower half.

[noddle]

Still having trouble getting the head off. How do I loosen the timing chain? I can't see any way of accessing the lower half.

If you have a manual, it will show you how to do it, if not, go here

http://carfiche.com/manuals023/cars/

and download one off these

73 Datsun 240Z

76 Datsun 280Z

77 Datsun 280Z

82 Datsun 280ZX

These use the "L" type engine, so the engine bit would be the same.

Nigel

[OUTATIME]

make a marking on the chain and cam gear or find where the gold links line up. then undo the bolt that holds the cam gear on and jam that wooden block thingo ya make up to hold the chain up. done.

or just undo the cam gear and just drop the chain down the timing cover then pull that off to make sure everything is ok down there. common for the main water gallery to the water pump 2 corrode out i think. give the oil pump a clean out etc (will have shit in there) and reset the timing chain. if have a service manual all says it in there, pretty straight forward. explains how to align the oil pump/dizzy drive shaft, chain, tensioner etc etc...

Edited June 22, 2008 by OUTATIME

[noddle]

make a marking on the chain and cam gear or find where the gold links line up. then undo the bolt that holds the cam gear on and jam that wooden block thingo ya make up to hold the chain up. done.

or just undo the cam gear and just drop the chain down the timing cover then pull that off to make sure everything is ok down there. common for the main water gallery to the water pump 2 corrode out i think. give the oil pump a clean out etc (will have shit in there) and reset the timing chain. if have a service manual all says it in there, pretty straight forward. explains how to align the oil pump/dizzy drive shaft, chain, tensioner etc etc...

I wouldn't want to drop the chain, and pull the front cover off, "just to have a look and clean",

If you are mechanically inclined, then it probably wouldn't be a big deal, but if not, I suggest you jam the chain with a block off wood, like in these pictures

Nigel

[guska]

I have the chain held with a couple of coat hangers through the links, so it's not going anywhere. The problem is, I can't get the cam gear off, as there is no compression to stop the motor from turning. It's also auto, so no chance to putting it in gear either. Is there a tensioner or something that I can access down further? I don't want to go pulling the radiator and everything out if there's no point.

[blind_elk]

The handle end of a large handled screwdriver makes an ideal tensioner lock. And another large screwdriver through the cam wheel will lock it against the front cam tower while you undo the retaining nut.

[noddle]

I have the chain held with a couple of coat hangers through the links, so it's not going anywhere. The problem is, I can't get the cam gear off, as there is no compression to stop the motor from turning. It's also auto, so no chance to putting it in gear either. Is there a tensioner or something that I can access down further? I don't want to go pulling the radiator and everything out if there's no point.

Unless you want to pull the front timing cover off, a coat hanger wont do. you need to jam the chain,

see the pictures, the first one show the tensioner and the guide, the second one show the parts of the tension, if you let the chain go slack, most likely the spring and guide will come out off the body, thus requiring the front cover to come off, and if you are lucky, you can fish the bits out of the sump.

did you down load one off those manual I suggested, or at least hunt around the net for a guide on how to do this ?

Nigel

[OUTATIME]

i got away with ocky straps held to the bonnet when chaning the cam shaft, but sorta have 2 have an idea what ya doin cos like said very easy 2 drop it. piece of wood is the go.

other way to stop it turning is to put a socket on the crank pully bolt with a bar on the shifter handle so it jams on the ground.

[guska]

The manual wasn't available when I looked before, but the '77 Datsun 280Z one is downloading now.

[guska]

If you have money to burn, these may be useful

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ARP-Head-St...sspagenameZWD1V

Nigel

Looks like something like this is what I'm going to have to use. Anyone know where they are available locally? And perhaps at a better price (brand not an issue)

[guska]

Right, worked out that the 3 head bolts that broke are fused to the head, not the block. I'm going to cut my losses and grab another motor. PnPL want $600 for one. But, what I want to know is, would it be a complete head f**k dropping an RB30 into it?

[guska]

nvm, I found threads, too much head f**k. Will find an L24 or 28. NA of course.

[noddle]

nvm, I found threads, too much head f**k. Will find an L24 or 28. NA of course.

If you replacing the motor with another "L" type, drop a L28 into it, and as long as the sump is the same (front sump I believe for MR30), It will "just" bolt in the same.

only issue may be the EFI, injectors will most likely be to small (flow rate), but i'm no EFI expert, some off the other members would know more about this than me,

Nigel

[guska]

Am looking for a complete engine that I can just bolt in, plug in and turn the key.

[Factory 5]

I have one here in VIC...

you can have it for $50.... all that is missing is... dizzy, and thats about it i think...

Its got 250,000 km on it, but goes great.

Came off a series 2 manual MR30 Ti

i could put a battery on it & it would start...

I was keeping it to rebuild i I ever popped my existing L24, but if that happens I will just get a L28 or VQ30det, or RB30et.... or a Cummins diesel

If you call up a shipping place, see how much it will cost you to get an engine on a pallat shipped from my place (postcode 3134,Ringwood VIC) to wherever you are

[guska]

Awesome! If there's anything missing/needs replacing, I'd rape the one I have, so a dizzy isn't a problem, it looks like it's been rebuilt not long ago (rotor isn't blackened at all and it's pretty much spotless inside. I'll ring a couple of transport places tomorrow and PM you.

[Factory 5]

I had a look at it last night... havent seen it in about 6 months.

the belts are shagged, the lil vac lines are cracked, pulleys on the front are pretty messy (a bit stiff and surface rust)

i would put it on an engine stand or workshop, put your stuffed motor next to it, and put your good pulleys & belts on it. along with the vac lines too...

will give it a high pressure steam clean before it gets to you too! (cobwebs & dust...)

then flush the coolant system, and an oil & filter change...

[guska]

Hey, cheers. I have all that, no issues there. Just need to know the dimensions of the pallet/skid it would be going on, and the weight. Any ideas? I can't get a quote without it.

[Factory 5]

Hey, cheers. I have all that, no issues there. Just need to know the dimensions of the pallet/skid it would be going on, and the weight. Any ideas? I can't get a quote without it.

pallet size about 1600 x 1100 i think?

weight... really heavy....

maybe check on hybridz for engine weights?

We should transferr this to email... save space on the server!

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