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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

my hicas light comes on reliably after about 15 min of driving,

when driving to trade school it always comes on at about the same bit of road in my route,

i have tried entering diagnosis mode but it doesnt work, am i not doing it right?

This is what i do

ignition off

car in neutral,

start car

turn wheel left and right vigourously about 5-6 times,

pump brake pedal fairly quickly 5-6 times.

put clutch in and go into first gear, and then back to neutral and release clutch

nothing hapens..

car is a 1989 hcr32 gtst

am i missing something?

i also tryed driving forwards 5 metres, n it didint work

Your missing 1 step according to your steps above.

Easier steps to understand is:

1- car is off, transmission in Neutral and steering wheel is dead center.

2- turn key to accessory, when ready turn car on.

3- with steering wheel dead center (imagine a white line in center of steering wheel)

turn to the right so that the line moves about 20cm - now turn to the left about 40cm (that is considered 1). turn to the right about 40cm and back to the left 40cm (that is considered as 2) repeat up to six times.

4- push and release brake peddle 6 times

5- turn steering wheel to right 20cm than to the left 40cm than to the right 20cm (so it's now back in the center)

6- push clutch in move lever into gear than out of gear, now release clutch

7- now stare at hicas light and count the flashes.

that's it takes, for reference it takes me about 5 seconds to do all of above (steps 1 to 6).

with step 7- if it starts with 10 quick flashes means your in mode A, if there is a long 5 second flash means your in mode B, after that now count flashes and refer to op for what it means.

hope this helps.

  • 2 years later...

I know this is an old thread, but figured this is the best place to ask the question. Which loom dose the wires to the steering rack pressure solonoid attach to? Or perhaps tell me the colours of the wires on the loom that it attaches to? After investigation I found on my car it's not attached to anything.

  • 1 year later...

Hi Guys

Recently just got my car back, 95 r33 gtr vspec. was getting eflex and tune after couple new parts.

Driving home I was getting a bit of a sway or wobble in the rear, felt like the rear. So took it easy it was only when I went over a rise or bit of a bump in a dip. Ive had shot suspension before and definitely didn't feel like that.

So checked all wheel nuts when I got home, all good and tight. went down to pump up tires as they were a little low, 15psi then what I would usually have them. went for a drive felt good. gave it a little and the wobble was back. Pulled over and had a quick look under. all nuts and bolts where there and seemed good.

Got home and jacked it up, gave it a once over. Found that I could move the passenger side wheel to the left and right, well left and back again, about 2mm or so. Driver side is all tight no movement. The movement seems to be coming form the join at the steering rack. The tie rod doesn't have movement anywhere.

My questions are, am I right in assuming that there should be no movement at all, and this is what could be giving me the "wobble".

if so, are there any bushes I can replace rather then the rack itself, as the exploded diagram from Nissan doesn't have anything apart from rack, and the tie rods, covers and what not. or an over haul kit or something of the like.

Has anyone else had an issue like this and should I just put a hicas lock bar in as most likely cheaper. Also is it just a simple job as the 33 is elec rather then the hydraulic one on the 32s.

thanks for any help you guys can offer. any pics also to reference would be appreciated.

cheers guys

  • 5 years later...

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